Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - yjb

Pages: [1]
1
hey folks!
so after fussing and fighting with it, basically dissembling it down to bare bones, all plastic panels came off.
All wires were inspected. All connectors were checked. Everything was run with a multimeter.
I just couldn't figure it out.

Finally I took it to the shop, Sparks in Tucson Arizona, they just called me, after 2 weeks of waiting,
and the expert answer is...

Pulser coil!!!! it's a part that works with the stator that generates ac power that goes to the rectifier and to your lights and whatnot.. ( i think?)

Wish I would have investigated a little more.. If I would have just looked up actual definitions and descriptions of what parts do what, I think I could have figured it out. I really wish I would have read what I've put below for info about pulser coils and ignition systems in basic motorcycles.

They also told me the carb is clogged up because it's been not running for over a month.. and it needs to be cleaned..
all in total, less than $200 at the shop, and should get it back running today!
I'll update later on how it all comes back together...
too bad i missed most of the spring on the scoot, and now its 105+ every day..
so it goes :)





Pulser Coil & Ignition Systems
The Pulser Coil is the heart of your engines timing & ignition system. This section has information on how the components and system work & troubleshooting tips.

The Pulser Coil, (often called Pickup Coil, or Timing Coil) is responsible for providing the timing signal to the ignition control box on modern motorcycles with solid-state ignition systems. The majority of motorcycles from the late 1970's and up use this system for reliable, accurate, and low maintenance ignition control. On previous models, points-controlled systems were used, and while cheap and simple, they required routine maintenance and component replacement to ensure reliability.
Points & Mechanical Advance Ignition Systems

On most motorcycles up until the late 1970's, timing and spark control was done with a set of cam-driven points, which were mechanically advanced or retarded to control timing. The points would make contact, allowing current to build up. When the points were opened, and contact broken, the current was discharged through a coil to step up the output to high voltage in order to produce an ideal spark across the spark plug. This system was very simple, and similar to the system used on automobiles. The common replacement parts are the points, which wear down from constant friction as they open and close, and the condenser, which is a small capacitor to prevent arcing and premature wear & failure of the points. Timing is handled via a mechanical advance system. The timing of the points openening is advanced before Top-Dead-Center of the engine at higher RPM's, usually by means of a spinning weight.
CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) & Solid State Ignition Systems



Modern ignition systems use a solid state (semiconductor) controller to handle the ignition spark timing. The control box, often called a CDI box, or black box, handles multiple functions. The internal electronics are either powered from the battery (DC ignition systems, most street motorcycles), or in AC directly from the stator (most dirt/offroad motorcycles). Current from either the stator or the battery is used to charge up an internal capacitor. This capacitor is then discharged through the ignition coil via the spark plug to generate the very high voltage necessary for a good spark. The CDI box has digitally stored timing maps, to handle advance of the ignition depending on RPM, and sometimes other variables, such as a throttle position sensor (often called TPS, a sensor which varies it's resistance based on the opening of the throttle). The CDI box is fed timing data from the Pulser Coil, which produces a short duration, low current, high voltage pulse in relation to the Top Dead Center (TDC) piston location in the engine. This is explained more in depth below.
The Pulser Coil and Flywheel Timing System

The pulser coil is a very simple component. It is generally housed in a small plastic container, and internally potted with epoxy or some other oil resistant material. The pulser coil itself is made up of a small magnet (the exposed metal you can see on the front of the housing), which is wound with a coil of very fine wire. The pulser coil may have one or two wires exiting the case to connect to the ignition box. On one wire systems, on side of the internal coil is grounded to chassis ground through the mounting hardware. On two wire systems, a wire from each side of the coil exits the case to connect to the ignition box.

The pulser coil generates it's timing pulse with help from the flywheel (Refer to the illustration above). The outside diameter of the flywheel has at least one timing mark, which consists of a raised ridge, spanning some percentage of the outer edge of the flywheel. This ridge is pronounced, and has sharp leading and trailing edges. The Pulser Coil is mounted to the engine sidecase in very close proximity (some thousands of an inch) to the flywheel, spaced to be extremely close to the timing ridge(s). The timing ridge is referenced to the Top-Dead-Center (TDC) piston location inside the engine. As the timing ridge on the flywheel spins past the pulser coil, the timing signal is generated. The leading and trailing edges of the raised metal ridge produce a low current, high voltage pulse, either positive then negative polarity, or negative then positive, depending on the direction of the coil winding inside the pulser coil. The ignition box then uses this signal to reference the piston location, and given it's inputs (RPM and TPS) it will determine the correct time to fire the spark plug, by discharging the internal capacitor out to the ignition coil, and finally the spark plug.


General Pulser Coil Troubleshooting Steps

The Pulser Coil, as a unit, is not usually serviceable. It is a sealed component, and should be replaced if determined to be a problem. Pulser Coil problems sometimes manifest themselves in hard starting situations, but usually failures result in no spark at all. When the pulser coil fails it will usually produce no output pulse, or a very weak one. This is hard to verify, without special tools such as an oscilloscope to view the pulse. The usual failure is similar to a stator failure mode, the wire coil inside fail with the insulation breaks down and a short occurring, or the wire breaks inside causing an open circuit. The wiring external to the pulser coil assembly can be damaged as well, causing a connection issue. The only real troubleshooting method is to check the resistance of the Pulser Coil wires, to ensure they match known specifications, making it likely the coil inside is intact.

1: Lookup Pulser Coil technical specifications for coil resistance. These are available from the bike's service or owners manual, or our website's product page for our coils.

2: Obtain a Digital MultiMeter (DMM). Set to the hundreds resistance range if the meter is not auto-ranging.

3: Attach each meter lead to one wire from the pulser coil. If there is only one wire exiting the pulser coil, attach one meter lead the wire, and one to the metal mounting foot of the pulser coil housing.

4: Verify resistance reading matches the known specification. For most Pulser Coils this in the range of 180ohms-300ohms, but please compare to exact specifications for your part.
5: If either an short is detected (no resistance), or an open (OL - overload, on most meters), the coil is definitely bad.

6: There are no serviceable parts in a pulser coil, short of repairing a damaged section of the wiring harness. Please replace with a new coil.

2
ok i tried it out, and it didn't start (but i may have possibly had the kill switch in the wrong position.. doh!) and it blew a fuse while i was trying to start it with the new cdi and hooked up to my buddy's truck to jump it..

bad news.. i changed the fuses out (the two by the battery) and i still have no power at all.. no brake lights, no horn, no fuel gauge, nothing.....

doesn't anyone know if im missing a fuse somewhere to check?
anyone have any thoughts about earlier things i've posted?

3
and i do believe it is a DC cdi, which is what i ordered and will try out tonight

4
i have tried both handles and it is working properly with that.. like i said i can get it to turn over just fine.. just no spark at the plug..
i have checked for resistance on the plug cable from the ignition coil.. seemed ok..
just got the new cdi from motopartsmax, took FOREVER! slowest delivery!
i'm gonna put it in and try and jump start it tonight when my roommate gets home..
when i tried to jump start it before, with it hooked up to a running car's battery, it had no problem turning over,
just never actually started.. so i'm thinking regardless if the battery is dead or not, there is something else that's the problem..
i'll let you all know how the new cdi goes..
i tried testing different pins' resistances, based on the manual.. its still getting different readings.. i think perhaps you can't use a regular multimeter to measure,
as the manual says you need something more specialized.. who knows...
so perhaps the old cdi is still ok.. since the reason for buying it was because it didn't match the resistance on certain pin combos from the manual.. however it was making that electronic whine.. that i never noticed before.. it even made that whine while i was trying to jump start it.. so i dont think its just an indicator sound of low battery, as some have said in other posts that perhaps that's why it makes that sound... i dont think so..

anyway.. more info to come,
thanks everyone!

5
anyone know if its a DC CDI or an AC? they want over $70 for one here in town.. looks like i'm gonna have to shop online

6
it wont kickstart.. but i dont know if it was doing it right...
i think i tested the CDI correctly by using a multimeter and testing resistance across certain pins by following the service manual..
perhaps i'lll try and see if the shop has both a battery and a cdi after work today..
thanks everyone.. i'll keep ya posted and keep trying!

7
just tested the cdi (i hope properly)
looks like the resistance is low between a few pins, and no reading between a few..
could it be that perhaps its just the cdi is bad?

8
thanks for the tip on the cdi..
well.. after trying to start it so much, the battery wont turn it over anymore.. so i'll have to charge it again, or buy a new one, to check for loose connections..
i'll poke around with the multimeter first a little tomorrow

i wasn't getting a spark before the battery ran out.. and the cdi makes that beeeeeep or buzzzz faint noise when key is in the on position, not sure what that might mean..

9
my problem seems a little different..
it used to start up at the very hint of touching the starting button..
only a couple of times during the winter did it need any real extra button jamming and a little throttle..

but the battery seems like the culprit at the moment...
perhaps collaborating with the stator/pulsar coils and or the ignition coil and maybe even the cdi..
i'm hoping someone here might have some thoughts so i dont have to go the route of guess and check
which usually ends up costing a lot..

but thank you and if worse comes to worse i'll prob start with a new battery.

10
i tested the voltage on the battery, which i already know is undercharged now after trying so many times to start and its below 12v now..

also i think i tested correctly (one probe on the white and one grounded) the A.C. charging coil  as well as the lighting (yellow to ground) and with the multimeter set to 20k ohms.. i dont get anything..
same if i test from the green to the black on prongs on the ignition coil, 0 ohms and i'm suppose to get somewhere between .1-.. but when i go from one of the prongs to the spark plug cap, i get somewhere around 8.5..

im not that great with this electrical stuff and am happy to have things over-explained,
thanks!!

11
hey folks,

so a few days ago it was driving fine. then one morning out of nowhere after many tries to get started with the electric start, the battery wouldn't turn it over anymore.. so i figured the battery was just too low.. enough to turn it over a bit, but maybe not enough to really get it going..
so i took it to autozone, and had them trickle charge it all day, they said their machine told them it was 98% charged..
took it home, it took a couple of tries and it got going again.. hooray right? wrong..

next day, tried to start it.. took quite a while with many tries, got to work, and took a bunch of tries again to get it started to get home..
thought perhaps i needed a new spark plug.. so i got a new spark plug..
put it in and it still had a little trouble at first.. then after adjusting the idle screw a little it was purring perfectly for 10mins or so..
so i thought id fixed it..

next day, again, wont start..
this time i pulled the plug out, and grounded it, and i dont see a spark when i'm trying to get it started...
also i'm hearing a little buzz or whine or beeeeeep going on from the CDI when i have the keys to the on position..
the fuel dial still turns on, horn and brake still work...

any thoughts on what it could be?
could it be that the battery is actually just needs to be replaced?
could it be the ignition coil?
stator? cdi?
any help would be much appreciated..
i do have tools and multimeter.. and some skillz...

Pages: [1]