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Messages - larks

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1
General Discussion / Old Kymco forum posts
« on: July 06, 2019, 06:12:24 PM »
Seems to be a whole decade of forum posts missing. Like didn't this group start up in the early 2000's? sometime.

A treasure trove gone.

What happened? where are they? Tried the Wayback machine

2
People 150 / Re: People 150 engine identification code placement
« on: June 30, 2019, 08:14:54 PM »
Okay, my bad. Realized there is an engine code below front corner of cvt cover But it says BA30, which is what this p150 engine is.

Several posts refer to it as a GY6 engine so was looking for that Id and ignored the BA30. Not true! I guess it's foundation is similar to Gy6 but have already discovered several differences. Parts transfer ain't going to be so easy.

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Technical | How To / Re: Non oem parts for early People 150
« on: June 30, 2019, 08:01:34 PM »
Hi and thank you JJ.

Bad news though. Somewhere I saw a jet kit for $7 so maybe that would help as far as getting a non oem carb to work but I don't know. Want to renovate this to use for work commute but somewhat busted.

Really kind of surprised at prices. Don't know what they were last year but wonder if these new tariffs are part of it if they've kicked in yet. Auto petcock is $50!

Another thing is supply. Do you know what's up with that? Kymco doesn't care about US market? Maybe i'm wrong as just starting to look but seems like parts are spread pretty thin or unavailable?

Just realized that P150 is not strictly a GY6 engine. Still, the GY6 market is much bigger and thus parts availability, regardless of price is far better. Crap shoot as to what will fit though.

Initiation! just adjusted valves and looked at belt.

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Technical | How To / Non oem parts for early People 150
« on: June 27, 2019, 04:43:38 AM »
 Come to find I can buy a Carb for $30 on Amazon that would cost $250 oem and is made to fit a 157QMI or 157QMJ GY6 engine which supposedly the P150 is.

Like to ask you all if anyone has any experience doing this how it went?

Also, can get a starter for $16 instead of $100 oem. Please reply if you know.

On another note, left question in the people 150 section about finding engine Id code stamping. Not sure if was right place to post it. Would love to verify

Many thanks for any consideration.

5
People 150 / People 150 engine identification code placement
« on: June 27, 2019, 04:21:15 AM »
Hi folks,

Thinking about non oem parts for my 2004 scoot and reading about Gy6 engines. Finally got around to looking for the code on my engine just to verify but can't find it!

Story is that the GY6 moniker, "157QMJ", is stamped on bottom of cvt cover next to gear oil drain. Nada. Or anywhere else.   :'(

http://www.buggydepot.com/buggy-tech-center/read/150cc/0/24/how-it-works-decyphering-gy6-engine-codes.html

So where? Hope you don't have to turn bike upside down

6
Technical | How To / Re: Battery/Charging Problems
« on: August 28, 2013, 09:07:58 PM »
Nope, it's definately a dc cdi. So a mystery here. Left a post on "people 150 charging info" 8/3 as to how a proper 150 performs.

7
Technical | How To / People 150 charging info
« on: August 04, 2013, 01:58:42 AM »
So here's my report. Tried to ask about this on different threads when I was have problems to no effect.

A correctly working People 150 will have the following characteristics in the charging system.

* 3 stator wires go immediately to white "3p" connector. If you disconnect this coupling the bike will not start. This is not the case with many bikes including many Kymcos. Scootergrisen's super 8 for instance. Anyone know why the diff?

* So, to check ac voltage stator output you must bare the wires right before connector and check between any 2 of the 3 wires with coupling connected.

* Around 5 vac idle, 15 vac full throttle. Again, all the bikes I saw described on youtube, here, etc, report much higher ac voltages and say if you have voltages like mine you've got a malfunction. Not true! Anyone know why?

Don't forget to put on center stand to get rear wheel off ground before reving! It's amazing how one can be rushing and forget!

Regulator/rectifier.  The method to test in manual is bs, totally wrong figures. Now own two that work, old and new.  If probe between red/white get between 240 and 324 ohms (depending on which R/R I test) one way and 0.L after switching the test leads. Between green/white get same reading no matter how place leads. 500k ohms on old R/R, 660k ohms on new.

Continuity tests on 3p connector in point one above described on page 14-7 in manual are accurate. Apparently other bikes are different, but with the People if you connect contacts to ground you are supposed to get continuity, in my case around 1 ohm. Repeatedly, tho, I read people saying there should be no continuity here, on other bikes. Again anyone know why?

Idling in driveway get dc voltages at battery of 14.9 after several minutes. Don't want to idle to long, though, due to heat so go for ride. when return before turning off it is idling at 13.5vdc

In general the manual is extremely wrong across the board in all subjects.

Got a $10.00 Motion Pro 27mmx1 left hand thread flywheel puller off Amazon that worked. also a $16 Tusk clutch holding tool to hold flywheel worked, tho you may be able to just hold it with screwdriver if careful not to touch stator, I don't know. Pops off real easy

Anyone who can elucidate further about why the People gen system is different from others in the various ways described please elucidate. Are there different types of alternators?. I guess, for instance, that mine is 3 phase since 3 wires but really don't  knowif that's relevent. You would think it would be same as on a super 8 but according to Sootergrisen and other posters I guess not. Not Perm mag maybe?

I need this bike to get to a very lousy job. Would appreciate any opinions about what parts it would be wise to get an extra of as far as what is most likey to fail, within economic reason, since supplies are likely to vanish stateside. Even if not, there's a lot of down time waiting. 2004 bike 6k miles

Sure hope this helps someone someday

8
Technical | How To / Re: Stator/regulator failure cause?
« on: July 05, 2013, 03:43:55 AM »
Thank you so much MaryK for coming on!

Quote
The good news is that it is easy to test the rectifiers if you have a digital ohmmeter.
Disconnect the R/R and read the resistance across each rectifier with the ohmmeter leads connected 1 way, then read again with the ohmmeter leads switched.  There should be significant differences in the resistances.  Then do the same for the other rectifiers.  Compare all the readings.

Got a good meter and the manual, but my results didn't match anything the manual said. I'd rather trust you. between my red and white I get 266 kohms one way and no continuity the other. between the yellow and green the readings are the same both ways---.686 Mohms. So you would say I'm okay between red and white cause there is a big difference but not okay between yellow/green cause they are the same and so therefore my R/R is bad?  I realize numbers may be different on different bikes but we're just talking basic principle.

The manual is really screwy. They say betwween y/g should be same both ways but their correct #'s are way lower.

Quote
If the regulator failed, it is much harder to test... except the resistance of the R/R with respect to ground should be high. 
If it is more like a short, then the regulator may be the problem.

Sorry, don't get this. If the R/R is bad, the above test you supplied to test whether it is bad won't tell you it is bad?  And how do I test the resistance of the R/R with respect to ground? Does this mean connecting the ohmmeter between each of the 4 terminals discussed and ground? (I get O.L)

Quote
The good news is that a R/R should be cheaper than a stator... OOPs it looks like the stator is about $50   not bad.
Did not find the R/R on a quick look.

I've got to find your supplier  ;D Best I could find was $68 on a stator an a shocking $38 on the R/R

Bet you love that 250! I'll have to look around for some of your comments about it

9
Technical | How To / Stator/regulator failure cause?
« on: July 04, 2013, 08:13:33 PM »
So wondering. just bought this 2005 People 150 used at yard sale for great price ( or I thought) and happily rode around for couple months. Really love it. Only 6200 miles on it and it was definately charging fine at 14.5 v originally until it didn't.

right before this happened I had hooked up battery to an automotive type charger (had sat for 3 months due to injury). the kind that puts out 10 amps. Had an ammmeter in line and charger only put out 5 amps but that's still too fast so disconnected it after only a minute or so.

Seems like nothing, just a coincidence. After all, that stator must put out 5 amps going the other way, at least briefly. But is there some way I could have hurt my regulator or stator doing this? I mean does seem funny that it immediately preceded failure and seems funny to have a failure on only 6k miles.  :(

Whadayatink?

10
Technical | How To / Re: stator removal
« on: July 04, 2013, 07:56:14 PM »
Thanks Solumized. Very helpful to hear I don't need a special holder.  ;D  Curious if you ever tried to start your bike with those 3 wires coming of the stator disconnected. Mine don't start that way but i've read indications that it should.

Good tip about autozone, etc. Don't have any auto stores around but still....

11
General Discussion / Re: New People 150
« on: June 20, 2013, 07:19:36 AM »
Heh Vivo, :D  do you have a People 150?

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General Discussion / Re: New People 150
« on: June 16, 2013, 04:12:36 PM »
Thanks for the reply MotoRandy. Very interesting and I never would have guessed it. I assume you have reason to believe that my People is the same as your Yager. Kymco pretty much  does all their scoots the same way I guess you are saying?

13
Technical | How To / stator removal
« on: June 14, 2013, 06:18:48 PM »
Hi All,

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0026-Flywheel-External/dp/B000OO2Q86/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=KYMCO%7C1194&Model=Venox%20250%7C22318&Year=2004%7C2004&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=motorcycle

Anyone know if the above flywheel puller will work on a People 150? The manual just calls it an E002 which is seen elsewhere as 27mm x  but don't know if that's accurate or what the "1.0" in this  Amazon ad refers to or even if i need a leftie thread.   :(

Also would I need a flywheel holder (like the manual says you do) or would just an impact wrench do and what size socket? Very limited funds here but need to get this sucker running.

If anyone has tested stators on any similiar scoot please pipe up on my other post here, a question to Scootergrisen in the battery/charging thread    :)

14
General Discussion / Re: New People 150
« on: June 14, 2013, 05:49:24 PM »
No repair needed. That's the way they work. The headlight is driven directly off the engine. The battery/charging system has nothing to do with the headlight.

Hi Old Guy,--Excuse the electrical ignorance please, but how is a headlight driven off the engine without having any connection to the charging system?

And does this mean that if I put in a switch to turn off light when don't need it my battery recharge time would not improve?

15
Technical | How To / Re: Battery/Charging Problems
« on: June 14, 2013, 05:35:36 PM »
Quote
So first check the wires from the generator to the regulator and to the battery.
If they are all ok then you could check the generator with the multimeter set to AC voltage.

Here is the wires on my Kymco Super 8 (look at picture).
Disconnect the cable like on the picture.
On my scooter i measure on the pink and yellow.
Start the engine and look if the multimeter shows some voltage.
Turn the throttle a little and the voltage should rise.
If you are able to measure some voltage the generator proberly is okay.
On my scooter i measure 46 volt at idle and 110 volt at full throttle with the connection/cable off.
(Note the if you measure with the connector on the voltage will only be something like 14 volt).


Hi Scootergrisen,

Tried this on my People 150. I have 3 wires coming off the gennie, a white, yellow, and blue going to a white plastic box coupling like yours. However, unlike yours, my bike will not run if I disconnect coupling. So with the wires connected and bike running I probed the yellow and white and get 4-10 vac depending on amount of rpm's. Not reving excessively high.

I tried the resistance tests on regulator in manual and results not what should be but I don't trust manual.

* So does this indicate anything to you in general?

* Any clue why mine does not run disconnected and yours does?

* Does your phrase " measuring with the connector on" (where you get only 14 vac) mean measuring with the wires connected as I had to do?

Anyone else that has done this please chip in, of course. Many thanks.

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