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Messages - capthmm

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For Sale / 2003 Venox + boatloads of accessories
« on: August 29, 2013, 12:25:11 AM »
Here's a link to my Venox ad on Craigslist. The price is for the bike with all the add-ons and accessories.

http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/4031741685.html

It's possible that I might sell the add-ons separately. Here's a list of these items:
  • National Cycle Street Shield EX windshield
  • Kymco brand saddlebags & supports
  • Light bar and driving lights
  • Highway bars
  • 'Sissybar' (tall) with luggage rack

Thanks for looking,
Eric

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Venox 250 / Re: New member / question on bike not running
« on: August 29, 2013, 12:14:10 AM »
To anyone that might have been following - the heart of the problem was actually a bad fuel petcock. Somehow or another the diaphragm had gone bad - even at when shut off and no vacuum, the bowls would fill and gas would leak out.

Bike runs great now.

Thanks for all the input.

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Venox 250 / Re: New member / question on bike not running
« on: July 25, 2013, 02:05:49 AM »
Never mind about the screws, I found them by process of elimination and drained the bowls. Now it looks like I'll have to pull the carbs anyhow since gas is draining out of one of the carbs which I'm pretty sure means the float is stuck.  :)

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Venox 250 / Re: New member / question on bike not running
« on: July 24, 2013, 07:16:15 PM »
After sitting overnight and just adding the Seafoam to the gas, the bike now refuses to idle under choke.

Can someone point me to a link or post a picture of the bowl drain screws?

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Venox 250 / Re: New member / question on bike not running
« on: July 24, 2013, 04:25:26 AM »
OK, so I finally got the the air filter and some time to devote to the bike and met with moderate success. I pulled the tank, drained the old stale gas, cleaned the plugs and checked the gaps and replaced the air filter.
The bike now runs, but only when choked and tolerates some throttle variation, but will eventually die with too much/too little throttle and too little choke.
I found a shop manual online, but the pictures and diagrams of the carb are almost useless, so does anyone have a picture of the bowl drain screws - the manual doesn't show or label it? I'm hoping I can drain the carbs and that will take care of the idling problem.

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Venox 250 / Re: New member / question on bike not running
« on: June 24, 2013, 09:12:13 PM »
OK, I'm going for the path of least resistance first - a new air filter has been ordered. I guess we'll see in a few days.


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Venox 250 / Re: New member / question on bike not running
« on: June 24, 2013, 03:58:11 PM »
Is it possible to drop the fuel bowl(s) without removing the entire carb assembly? I'm unfamiliar with the Venox carb.

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Venox 250 / New member / question on bike not running
« on: June 24, 2013, 02:21:00 AM »
First of all, glad to see there is a forum out here and it looks like a really good community!

Now for the problem - I bought a 2003 Venox a few years back, rode it quite a bit, but eventually garaged it more and more due to the insane Texas heat. Yes, riding in August fully armored up is like riding in an oven and not very enjoyable. After being parked for a while with a low level of gas in the tank, it began to run rough, so I assumed there was moisture in the tank, so I pulled it, cleaned it out and put in fresh gas. It ran great after the cleanup - so good that for whatever stupid reason, I decided that it was idling a bit higher than before, and I made the poor decision to turn down the idle by using what I assumed was the idle speed adjustment screw/knob on the right side of the bike. The idle dropped and the bike was still running great when I shut it down for the day.
A week or so later when I went to go for a ride, the bike cranked right up and ran while the choke was fully engaged, but began to run rough even after being warm and would only run with the throttle applied and never idled again. From there over the next few years (yeah I know) I've mildly tinkered with the bike (new plugs, attempts to use the adjustment screw) but it's only gotten worse. Strong battery and good spark, but now the bike turns over runs for only a few seconds and then dies.
From my experience restoring cars and a 1977 Kawasaki KZ750 and looking around the posts here I'm guessing something in the carb is blocked or gummed up. If there's anyway to avoid tearing it apart, that would be great to know since my rebuild of the Kawa's carbs wasn't 100% successful and required a trip to the shop to get everything sorted out.  If anyone can give me some good advice on where to go from here, it would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking for the shop manual, and noticed on some other posts that some users are willing to zip it up and email it, so if you're offering, I'm more than willing to take you up!

Thanks,
Eric

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