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Messages - MN_Scoot

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1
Technical | How To / Re: Does voltage matter on glass fuses?
« on: July 20, 2024, 05:36:43 PM »
Quote from: JJJoseph on June 17, 2024, 12:20:45 AM
These 2 fuses by the battery protect your wiring in case of a direct short, usually while doing repairs or mods to the electrical system.  They rarely if ever blow in normal use.  I'd even guess that they never fail in normal use!  They're so rare these days that you might have to order online, but they're cheap.  If they're labelled for "automotive use" they're made for 12V systems.

So mine actually DID fail! I was having intermittent electrical problems, checked those fuses among many other electrical parts in the system and they looked just fine, so I moved on. I had all body panels removed chasing another gremlin. Finally, I decided to look at these fuses again and although they both LOOKED perfectly fine, I did a continuity test on one of those glass fuses and it failed. Popped a new one in and all problems were solved.

2
Technical | How To / Re: Does voltage matter on glass fuses?
« on: June 15, 2024, 02:14:47 AM »
Follow-up question…I ended up finding some 32v glass fuses at an auto parts store, but they only had 7 1/2amp fuses.

Is that extra 1/2 amp going to be a problem for the inline fuse in the battery compartment?

3
Technical | How To / Does voltage matter on glass fuses?
« on: June 14, 2024, 03:14:16 AM »
I need to replace one of the glass fuses in the battery box. It’s rated as 7A32V.

The exact matches are pretty expensive. OR, I could get a huge variety pack with many different amp ratings. The issue is most of those variety packs have various amp ratings, but very high voltage ratings like 250.

Can I buy the variety pack and use the 7amp/250 volt glass fuses or do I need the exact 7amp/32 volt glass fuses?

4
Agility 50 / Re: Suddenly won’t electric start and blinkers don’t blink
« on: June 09, 2024, 02:12:31 AM »
Quote from: CROSSBOLT on June 07, 2024, 08:43:43 PM
Yes. Bad connection. Battery good. Wires/connections/grounds not good. Seventeen year-old scoot. Gotta be loose or corroded connections all over.

Disconnect battery, ground (-) (black) wire first, remove any body panels necessary to inspect the ENTIRE wiring system. Disconnect EVERY connection (whether plug-in or nut & bolt), inspect, clean, coat with silicone dielectric grease, reconnect. Wire brush or remove rust from any/ all ground points.

Please report findings here and definitely ask questions here if in doubt. Pay particular attention to any remarks by  a guy named "Ruffus." He does this stuf for a living and knows what he speaks.

Thanks for the feedback! That sounds completely right. Just jiggled the ignition, and flipped the power switch several times and it started right up, so clearly need to clean some things up with contact cleaner.

5
Agility 50 / Suddenly won’t electric start and blinkers don’t blink
« on: June 06, 2024, 10:44:21 PM »
I just had several issues come up at once while on a ride.

The electric start did absolutely nothing…no sound even. Luckily, I was able to kick start, but my blinkers also would only stay lit when I tried to use the turn signal. No blinking. A couple times, they also made an awful sound almost like static when I had my blinker on.

I also noticed that the fuel gauge which usually goes to full (or wherever my tank level is at) when I turn on the ignition stayed on empty.

I went home and a battery tester said the battery was good. I have it on a tender to check again when that’s done, but the tender blinked like it was over 80% charged when I plugged it in.

Any ideas on these weirdly specific things that all seemed to happen at once?

2007 Agility 50

6
Agility 50 / Re: 2010 Agility 50cc after 5 years and 50.000+ km's
« on: October 06, 2015, 09:26:56 PM »
That's awesome. Hope you have many more K's!

7
Agility 50 / Re: Front cover removal kymco agility 50
« on: July 15, 2015, 02:54:22 PM »
It's been a while since I removed mine, but i seem to remember a screw somewhat hidden from normal view I had to see when looking from below. I don't think i had to remove the signal lights.

Quote from: ldersch on June 29, 2015, 08:35:49 PM
Hi all,

I'm trying to replace my speedo cable, but I can't seem to get the front cover off. I have removed all visible screws, and it loosens, but does not come off. I've also noticed that I may have to remove the turn signal lights as well since the plastic completely surrounds them. Am I missing something simple? TIA!

8
Technical | How To / Re: The Bendix and the Air filter problems????
« on: July 02, 2015, 03:53:56 PM »
Quote from: emanuel_v19 on July 02, 2015, 04:50:38 AM
Add some wd-40 too?

You could clean the area with WD and then wipe it up well, but I wouldn't combine the two as the WD will break down the grease.

9
Technical | How To / Re: The Bendix and the Air filter problems????
« on: June 29, 2015, 03:46:28 PM »
Quote from: emanuel_v19 on June 26, 2015, 05:12:09 PM
the kickstand doesnt retract to its original position, maybe something is broken? spring? it was working good for about 5 kicks then it stopped retracting) This being said, what can be wrong with it? broken bendix? it was working fine untill i opened it up to install the new parts.

I had the same problem with the kickstarter and thought for sure something was broken. When I opened it up, everything was fine. I just needed to clean out the kickstart pinion gear and the channel where it spins. I also put in some all purpose grease between the two. After that, worked like new.

10
Agility 125 / Re: less than a week old, and it's not running
« on: June 29, 2015, 03:36:42 PM »
Quote from: BettinANDlosing on June 25, 2015, 12:04:44 AM
Warranty does not cover towing. And most likely the dealer did not clean your carb. Tell them you want them to go through the entire carb and make sure it's not plugged up. Not much else it would be on a new bike.

Just curious, do dealers ever clean carbs on a brand new bike? I've heard of some kind of material that keeps the float from jostling too much in transit, but then harmlessly dissolves once gasoline is introduced. Do dealers sometime clean a brand new carb to get rid of that? Otherwise, can't imagine why they would clean a brand new carb especially with how small I imagine the margins would be on entry-level bikes.

11
Agility 125 / Re: scooter shuts off while driving
« on: June 22, 2015, 03:37:39 PM »
I had a very similar problem I spent an entire season trying to solve. Replaced almost every system before the stalling finally went away.

The last thing I did that seems to have solved it is removed the emissions system and spent about $5 replacing all the vacuum lines.

Here is my thread about removing the system if you need it: http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=13925.0

12
Technical | How To / Re: Water in gas... intentionally.
« on: May 19, 2015, 08:11:41 PM »
Quote from: Yager200i on May 19, 2015, 04:33:22 PM
Hi, all.

I've been doing research into fuel additives to improve fuel efficiency, and I ran across the genius of Sir Harry Ricardo. He gave us large parts of the technology that are used even today in modern high-compression engines. In 1921 he patented the Racing Discol 1 and Racing Discol 2 (RD1 and RD2) fuels. Apparently RD1 gave as much as 20% better fuel efficiency, and more power.

It was comprised of 80% ethanol, 10% acetone and 10% water. Apparently, to protect their IP and patent rights, they also added a bit of finely ground bone meal, which confounded chemical analysis, but made the exhaust stink to high heaven. Of course, that needn't be added.

Given that most fuel is 10% ethanol now, that 10% ethanol in regular gasoline can be converted into RD1.

This can be done by adding 47.32 ml of acetone and 47.32 ml of water to each gallon of regular E10 gas. Unless my math is off... please correct me if it is.

So for each fill-up of ~2.5 gallons for a typical scooter, something on the order of 118 ml of water and 118 ml of acetone would be added. A small amount of Lucas upper cylinder lubricant, to ensure fuel lubricity, would also probably be a good idea.

Apparently the complete miscibility of acetone in water and ethanol binds the water to the ethanol, and the ethanol to the gasoline, making a homogeneous mixture that doesn't separate out. The ethanol and acetone add to the octane rating of the pump fuel, while the water provides an expansion medium that far exceeds that of combusting fuel in air (water expands to steam at approximately a 1:1600 ratio, at the same pressure), adding to cylinder pressure.

Given that gasoline itself and the ethanol in the gas are solvents, the relatively mild solvent acetone shouldn't affect any o-rings, gaskets, etc. But it, along with the steam in-cylinder, should help to keep combustion deposits from forming in the cylinder.

What do you guys think? Has anyone tried this?


I've never felt so dumb reading this forum…and that's no small feat!

13
Agility 50 / Has anyone bought or found this cool headlight assembly upgrade for sale?
« on: May 13, 2015, 10:02:27 PM »
I have seen this on a couple wholesale Chinese sites where you have to buy like 300 of them.

Has anyone found a place to buy ONE? Anyone purchased? They look awesome, but would like to know if it is a quality piece. I would be curious to know if this fits all American market Kymco Agilities (I've seen a photo online of this on an Agility where the bodywork looked slightly different and had an air intake below the light).

I've also read on these forums that some higher intensity bulbs burn the headlight assembly housing. Hopefully, this wouldn't happen with this one.

Any info would be appreciated!

http://www.remastersys.com/sale/pz6e826d2-z58ccd5e-scooter-kymco-agility-50-125-headlight-assy-front-headlight-bulb-12v-25w.html

14
Technical | How To / Re: Please help - detailed instructions on removing/bypassing a50 emissions system
« on: May 13, 2015, 07:14:08 PM »
Quote from: BettinANDlosing on May 13, 2015, 06:07:08 PM
No prob, you get everything ok?

Yep, everything's out and thanks for the direction.

I was going to write an update after a few more weeks of riding to see if the emissions system was in fact the culprit to my months-long mystery stalling issue. So far, so good! Hopefully, that was the final gremlin.

15
Agility 50 / Re: Electric starter works but kick start doesn't
« on: May 13, 2015, 06:06:44 PM »
Quote from: Cokym on May 13, 2015, 05:21:38 AM
Bike is from 2011. It is 4T with roughly 7600km in the meter.

I took it out of the winter hibernation like a month before the oil change and it worked before and after the oil change albeit starting was getting tougher after it and then I noticed that the kick start was not getting the job done no more. Kick start used to be surest way to get the scoot going when temperatures were low.
About the variables;
I did put maybe a bit too much oil in the change and took out some oil after few days so that the level was at the middle of the oil stick and not little over the max level.
After the hibernation i did drive few days until I noticed that i needed to add some motor oil (2dl) and transmission oil.

There is indeed spark in the plug, though i am not sure if the spark is strong enough cos I can't compare it to anything. The plug is a Iridium one and cap is right. Carb gets gas so I did not yet clean the gas filter nor check the petcock. Filter is not transparent so I can't see if there is gas there. But I guess there is. Going to check/clean those next then.
I have also changed the air filter to a new one at the same time I changed oil.

The scoot is still starting from the electric starter. I have tuned few times the fuel/air mix and going to still do it more precisely soon.
Intake valve was roughly 0.05mm and exhaust valve under that. I put both to roughly 0.08mm, which is the recommended value here in north. I have order already a new spark wire. There was little brittle in it in the top cover but there seems to be an extra cover underneath it.
I have cleaned the variator and kick start system, bendix etc. and put some grease to the places that require it.

Edit: I also changed the battery after the hibernation cos the old one was pretty done. Got a new 7Ah one to replace the 4Ah original.

When you cleaned/greased, did you put grease on the cylinder seen at the top of this photo? (this is the part that sits in/spins in the transmission cover. Cleaning/greasing this solved my kickstarter problem before. http://www.bikescooterparts.com/7145-8050-large/kickstarter-tandwiel-kymco-agility.jpg

If that part is not clean and greased and won't be able to spin out and turn the engine. Does it feel like it is turning the engine when you use the foot crank?

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