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Mury, I haven't been on in well over a year but today is your lucky day I guess.

The issue is not likely the Malossi Multivar. I too have that with 6g rollers and the white spring installed. Your issue sounds more like an engine issue. The Malossi is an improvement over the original variator in nearly every way. The 6 g rollers should give better acceleration as well, and the white contra spring will provide an rpm increase as you hit hills/slopes. This should increase your climbing speed.

From the sounds of it, trying to understand what you're saying, the engine seems bogged down. This is not related to the variator. I have had many issues with stale/bad gas where the scooter just does not want to run hard and bogs down continuously. There could also be an issue with your carburetor being clogged up or dirty that would cause this. Another issue could be your valves are out of spec (not likely) or your spark plug is shot.

Your scooter will always lack power when not warmed up. It will be even worse in cold, wet, humid conditions.
You must be sure to let your scooter warm up for 2 minutes or so before you ride it. You should do this every time whether its cold out or warm out. If you start the scooter and ride it hard immediately you can hurt you piston/cylinder and lose engine power over time. On a cold engine the piston is smaller than the cylinder and there is little oil on the cylinder walls. This can cause blow-back which will gunk up the walls or worse you could score the walls due to lack of oil lubrication. This wont happen right away but over a period of time of not letting the engine warm up these issues can occur.

First I'd start by letting the scoot warm up before driving. Next I'd add some fuel stabilizer and carb cleaner to your gas. You can find some products that do both in one bottle. If that doesn't solve it then dig into the other things i discussed.

Hope this help.

I weigh 165lbs (75kg) and the 1000 is okay for me. You could probably get by with the 1000 but even I would like the 1500. Its going to be a give and take with you over money. If you buy the malossi then you wont want to spend the money for the 1500. If you buy the Naraku you could probably buy the 1500. I'm not sure how the Naraku variator is, so it could be better with the 1500 spring than the Malossi is or it could be worse. Do some research and see if the Naraku is a good variator.

As BettinANDlosing stated it is definitely derestricted. Whether the CDI is or not is a question (likely but not 100%) but the drive boss most certainly is. You wouldnstruggle to get 35mph on a stock Agility50

That sounds about right. If you're worried about the laws around you its probably just best to leave the CDI stock and tune the CVT with different rollers and contra springs. That will get you the acceleration that is desperately needed but not a huge top speed.

The break in period for these kinds of engines is important for both longevity and some performance. The break in period is for many components of the engine to mate together more evenly and smoothly than they can be assembled. The cylinder wall and piston rings are the most important of these parts though.

For more modern car/industrial engines the manufacturing processes are higher quality and thus the break in period is less important. Many cars have a small break in done by the manufacturer as they are completed off the line. Further reducing the consumer break in importance.

The same is not true for the old design Chinese engines. For a single cylinder engine like these scooters you want the rings to seat correctly into the cylinder wall and cylinder itself. The cylinder wall has microscopic ridges created by the honing process in manufacturing that the rings ride against and form a tight seal as the rings and wall wear each other smooth/flat.

There are two methods that people generally attempt to use when breaking in their new engines. The "ride it like you stole it" method and the "baby it" method.

If you ride it like you stole it slamming the throttle wide open up and closed you will create enormous expansion pressure and vacuum pressure. These can cause blow-by gasses of the cylinder in both direction into and out of the crank case (because the rings are not 100% sealed yet). Blow-by are harmful to the scoot as it can "gunk up" the cylinder walls with oil from the crank case which then doesn't allow the rings to ride those microscopic ridges that are now covered by burnt oil residue.

However if you "baby it" and ride at constant rpm's at low speed you will not create the required pressures to seal the rings adequately. The owners manual somewhat suggests this method. Many people cant resist the urge to drive a little faster or a little harder than what the manual suggests which actually can be a very good thing. Whether the owners manuals are made that way in order to stop people from the "ride it like you stole it" method assuming people cant resist the urge to push a bit more than stated is up for question. But i think that is there intent.

Anyways, as most things in life, too much of one thing isn't good. Too much slamming the throttle wide open or too much slow constant rpm riding will not do you scooter good. Riding at varying rpm and varying your speed will allow your bike to be properly broken in. Don't WOT up a hill and then coast down the other side. This causes the great pressure from the hill incline as the bike struggles to climb and then the great vacuum as the engine is forced into motion with no combustion pressure by the down slope on the other side.

Hope this helps. Good Luck!

So I ended up getting a windshield. Got it for Christmas in 2013.
I got the http://www.puigusa.com/tuning-bikes/kymco-agility-50-2009/city-touring/c171en/f1-r26-m2746/
I didn't get it directly from that website but that is the one I have. It works great. Like the other guys said it really really makes the ride more comfortable. I didn't have any major noticeable difference in speed or fuel efficiency although the theory behind it says that both should improve.

F=(1/2)*rho*v^2*A*Cd
F is the drag force
rho is the mass density of the fluid
V is the velocity relative to the object
A is the reference area
Cd is the drag coefficient – a dimensionless coefficient related to the object's geometry and taking into account both skin friction and form drag.

With a windshield the size of your upper body the reference area will stay the same and only the Coefficient of drag will change. Thus the drag force will be reduced increasing speed and fuel efficiency.

But really the great thing about it is the more comfortable ride. I would 100% suggest the investment of a windshield to anyone who rides their scoot often.

2009 agility 50 r12
You have any suggestions?

This JJJoseph guy has no idea what he is talking about. lol He has clearly never owned a Kymco Agility 50. He posts on so many of these Agility 50 posts telling everyone how they will never get 45mph out of their Agility. When in reality almost everyone that does the small 3 derestriction mods get 45mph. He also says that the engines are standard chinese qmb139 engines when in fact they are not. Kymco took the qmb139 and adjusted it to their own design.

So PLEASE JJJoseph stop commenting on these Agility 50 posts with your nonsense! Save everyone the confusion of your lack of knowledge and let the people who actually know Agility 50's comment on these posts.