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The Cyclopedia Manual ... which supposedly was actually done by an American Mechanic and is missing the gefaws and big What? which happens in Chinese or Italian translations, is available in Kindle format ... which is kind of bizarre in itself.

http://www.amazon.com/2008-2012-Scooter-Service-Manual-ebook/dp/B00A44A9BW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369778129&sr=8-1&keywords=Kymco+Super+8+150++manual

If you don't have a Kindle ... you can download a reader AP for free from Amazon. I browsed through about fifty pages of this (it's 671 pages long) and it is legible and coherent, but with out warnings and conversions to SAE volumes (such as .18L Rear drive lube could also be listed as 6.5 ounces) but it is better than trying to use the pathetic S8 50 manual which reads like it comes from a different planet, and isn't appropriate for the 150 anyway.

At least its something better than a total uneducated guess ...

Start exploring tool bins for various 10mm box end wrenches. This is probably the most used size on most modern bikes. A mechanic friend of mine (incredible shop !) has a separate box just for about 40 different shaped 10mm wrenches. He also subscribes to only using 1/4 in' drive wrenches and socket sets for most engine, transmission and electrical fixtures.

The 3/8ths socket sets have large heads, bigger sockets and often won't fit in the small spaces. One other thing I picked up some decades ago are called 'wobble end extensions' these are for both 3/8 and 1/4 in drive units and allow the socket to rock (wobble) a bit while trying to get into tight spaces (such as the notorious high bolt in the CV cover). When you need to express a bit more force, just push down on the socket and the extension becomes a straight unit again.  When it comes to the larger nuts which hold on the Variator or the Clutch ... I have both box end wrenches in those sizes and hardened sockets (3/8 ths) in my collection. My favorite 1/4 in socket set I got from Ace Hardware in a fitted case with both Metric (from 6mm to 14mm) and SAE with a all kinds of adapters and even a few extensions. I got it on sale for less than 10 $ US and it is my go to wrench set for most basic maintenance.

One other observation ... get at least one of the six way multi headed screw drivers. The six way screw driver actually has two nut drivers built into it.

The height of the tire (aspect ratio 70 or 80 (80 being taller)) isn't the problem but the width slowed me down a bit. The width change of the tread, from 120 to 140mm is about 3/8 ths of an inch (10mm) wider on each side. On the exhaust side, the clearance is over 25 mm at its narrowest and just under 20 mm on the drive side (left side of the tire). I ran my hands around the tire, removed the inner fender and checked it every way I could ... I finally bought the Avon - but won't have a chance to mount it for at least another week.

I'll get some before, after and comparison photos when I have it done. My mechanic has done this step up on other types of bikes ... he said each bike has some variations, but he felt that it 'should' fit. My fingers are crossed. 

Dion

Whew - lots of questions, a lot of them have been approached on other threads. First, I' think you need to define your 1/ initial use of the scooter and 2/ the ultimate use. There is a major difference in a street ride which will be used for errands and groceries etc and a full tilt, WFO bike. The big key is life expectancy. Race machines are normally rebuilt two or three times during a season ... my focus for smaller bikes is to keep them running as long as possible, if I want to (or need to) ride faster,or a longer distance, I take a bigger bike. For a WFO machine, the ARHRMA machine I'm involved in has two spare 1 litre engines and transmissions ready for installation when the test engine finally claps out.

I just opened up the CV covering for the first time and was apalled at the amount of rubber all over everything and the poor condition of the belt and rollers ... at less than 800 miles. It seems the builder made a cosmetically attractive bike but scrimped on some of the parts which (while easy to replace) aren't often looked at.

As for your involvement and needs, explore the YouTube content, read all the aritcles on the forum, think about what you want to do ... as far as changing to a more open exhaust, expect your gas mileage to go down and your performance to suffer. If you decide to not re jet - look forward to a seriously lean condition and probably a siezed piston. Jetting is important - especially as all bikes currently are shipped in a lean jetting condition to pass emissions.

For a good resource which doesn't promote itself too well, try Enviromoto ( http://enviromoto.ecrater.com/c/709265/150cc-gy6 ). Jeremy is becoming my principal resource for aftermarket parts, and he is both a straight shooter and a nice guy. ((( NFI !!! ))) 

Good luck - questions are us ... answers cost more.

Dion

I got the Drain Plug Kit from Enviromoto and was delighted to realize it had magnet inserts in EACH of the three  plugs. Delightful surprise. I took the kit to an automotive house, picked up some appropriate seals/ washers, and cleaned off some minor plating flash before I installed them. The screen plug was a bit difficult to fit as the magnet is a ring which pushes the screen up a bit higher than the original drain plug. Take your time when you are fitting this one as it could cross thread.

Great little addition to the bike - I think all the plugs will work on my P250 too. Which is a good thing at the high mileage on that 2 wheeled pick up truck.

Dion - Chicago

Hi - I've been exploring the marginal service manual I've found on the internet (actually for a S8 50) and there are a few discrepancies in body work dismantling which are annoying.

I want to lube my rear brake cable and throttle cable but ... can't get the instrument cluster loose to get to the cables. I've found the six screws / bolts ... the bottom loosens up but I can't get the top / instrument section free from the fly screen holder (front section). I've looked inside with a flashlight but there don't seem to be any other screws or fixtures holding it together.

Have I missed something here? Suggestions will be greatly appreciated, and no, a crow bar isn't part of the solution.

Has anyone thought about sending either a thank you note or a petition to Kymco to get a manual done, preferably in English ...  

I have a longer trip planned up to Manitoba this coming summer (roughly a 2300 mile round trip) and am currently prepping my S8 150 for long distance reliability rather than going the performance route. To me and a few other riders I know, this means checking everything twice, tuning the carburator, changing the rollers to slightly heavier Dr. Pulley items and changing the bodily fluids on a regular bases. Currently at about 600 miles (I got it in November of 2010) it will soon be on its second oil change and then starting synthetic at the third change.

One thing I found out when I was going over the bike ... there were a lot of loose nuts, bolts and cap nuts on the trim pieces, external turn signals the end cap of the muffler etc. I used a 1/4 inch drive, socket set to tighten these up and still check on all of them about once every two weeks.  

This little bike was even fun in snow ... up to a point. When it got over the hubs and started to high center on ruts, well, I keep a KLR 650 around for the really crappy stuff.

Fun bike, I've been getting between 73 and 78 mpg - hopefully that will be even higher when it doesn't require a long start up time.

Another alternative I've been thinking of ... put a high strength magnet in the bottom of the strainer plug. I think this would work ... either in place of the part Enviromoto is offering (which I really like) or along with the magnetic plug.

The small oil capacity of scooters is a little frightening but with regular changes and especially using synthetic oil, these engines should last a long time. A little help from a few strategically placed magnets can't hurt.

Has anyone tried putting one under the strainer?

Dion - Chicago - where the streets almost thawed today. Short rides only, slower speeds but still out there as often as possible.