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Messages - OGBillyT63

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1
Grandvista 250 / Re: Dash illuminating back light
« on: March 02, 2024, 08:23:43 PM »
Thanks for the information Stig.   I’ve looked at that and some YouTube videos and it appears that the dash illumination strip is powered by an inverter located on the circuit board on the back of the dash itself. Supposedly this is a common issue with the GVs.  The video shows the fix after you get to that circuit panel but doesn’t show the steps to get to that stage.  I’m just looking to see if anyone has actually had some experience doing the whole process. 
Thanks for input. 

2
Grandvista 250 / Dash illuminating back light
« on: February 29, 2024, 10:43:08 PM »
My dash illuminated backlight has gone out.  I’ve seen some discussion on this issue but I’m seeking more information.  This seems like a daunting task just to even get to the inside of the dash where it’s located.  Does anyone have a detailed description of how they have removed the dash housing and then fixed this issue?

3
Grandvista 250 / 2009 Grandvista side stand scraping
« on: February 23, 2018, 02:43:27 PM »
i took the Grandvista for a run the other day as the weather was summer like on the noth east coast.  On my ride as I was going around a left hand curve my side stand scraped the road.   I really didn't think I was leaned over that much to have that as an issue .  Has anyone else had this experience.   After parking it and looking at the side stand and the the down and up stops on the mount it looks like there is some room left where I could grind the tab so that the stand would be just a little higher while riding.  Has anyone done this or come up with another solution?  Would this modification mess up the kick stand kill switch function?

4
General Discussion / Scooter or motorcycle
« on: February 20, 2018, 11:51:25 PM »
I am 67 years old and own a 2009 Grandvista 250 .Today I rode a 2017 Honda Rebel 300 thinking it would be a nice step up with it having fuel injection ,nice low seat , 6 speeds and only 600 miles on it.   Maybe I've gotten lazy,  but I fell back n love with my Grandvista after upshifting and down shifting on the Honda Rebel.  I felt the Rebel was a good quality bike , but I also felt I had to pay more attention to the gear position I was in than actually enjoying the ride.   I now really appreciate just starting my scooter up twisting the throttle and accelerating down the road and when it it's time to stop I grab the hand brakes and I stop wth no other extra moves.  All I have to do is twist the throttle and the CVT takes me up to speed in seconds without interruption.   I also have tons of storage under the seat, something the Rebel simply did not have!  I do have a love of motorcycles,  but after riding scooters for years now I'm enjoying the simpler ride my scooter provides.  I just want to say make sure you are actually enjoying your two wheel ride whatever it may be. 

5
I'm interested in the  gauge, speedometer, etc unit for the 2006 Bet and Win (250) If you do  how much $ you want for it?

6
I had the same problem a few weeks ago on my 09 GV with only 1400 miles on it .  I actually started it to take it out and then turned the key to the off position and the starter kept running .  I tried to shut it down using the kill switch , then tried using the kick stand down but starter kept running on its own.   I figured I would go ahead with the ride and just keep the scoot running and see if it would correct itself.  Along the ride I stopped a few times to see if it would shut down without the starter running on it's own but the issue still remained.   I continued to think thank as long as I kept riding I would be okay until I got home and if need be I could pull the battery cables until I figured things out.  BAD idea!  Iwas in the middle of a state park when everything shut down .   There was no power to anything.   I did not have the tools along to pull things apart so I ended up getting a roll back to take us home .    The next day I researched the forum etc.  and a number of people said they had a stuck starter button or they put in a new starter relay or even a new battery.  I took out the battery as I suspected it was dead and put in a battery from my other scooter which I knew was good. I took the battery to the auto parts store to see if it still could hold a charge which it couldn't.  I ascertained that there was current being sucked out from somewhere ,  enough to kill the battery.  I then started with looking at the starter button inside the casing and after inspection and moving the button it appeared to okay ,  re attached everything and touched the cable to the battery again and the starter still came on with the key still in the off position.  I found the starter relay and disconnected the wires from it , removed it from the rubber boot it sits in and took the nuts that holds the cables from the battery off and then reattached the the wires and touched the cable to the battery again and to my amazement and delight the starter remained off until I turned the key to on and hit the start button.  So I put everything back in it's place and it has been fine ever since.  From other threads I was reading it seems that the relay is very sensitive to being grounded properly  and the right current going through it.   I have since then been taking short rides near home and using my iPhone plugged into the charging socket under the seat to check if it is giving a positive charge as I rode along,  which it has been so far.   I must say if it was not for the researching the forum I wouldn't have known where to start to fix the problem! 

7
Bet & Win 250 / Re: Kymco bet and win 250 carburetor jets
« on: August 13, 2014, 11:43:15 PM »
 After watching Paul C 's you tube video about different levels of cleaning carburetorsi I decided to drill out the brass plug which gave me access to thoroughly clean the idle circuit with the use of a very thin wire.  I put the carb back together and plugged the hole I made with JB Weld and let it set for a day and then reinstalled the carb.  I started up the scoot and got it warmed up and then pushed the manual choke all the way down essentially stopping the choke circuit,  and to my delight it didn't stall out as in the past.  So once again thanks for your help Paul C..  I'm still running with the 38 slow jet for now ,but I may experiment with larger slow jets later.  The idle screw is now at 2-1/2 and it seems to be happy there.  Also checked my valve clearances since I had the seat off and set them at .1 mm .  So I ordered a new bystarter since I broke the original trying to get it out of the socket  when the brass plunger stuck in the hole so the only way to get it out was to pull on it when the plastic parts fell apart.  ;).
Thanks all for your help.

OGBillyT63

8
Bet & Win 250 / Re: Kymco bet and win 250 carburetor jets
« on: August 11, 2014, 12:18:26 AM »
Thanks mrbios for the info.
OK , I took the carb off once again and I drilled out the brass plug and ran a thin wire (very thin wire ) through to where I could see it in the pilot jet hole along with spraying with carb cleaner so hopefully this will clear the idle circuit as you showed in your video .  One question though ,   What is the charcoal canister purging that I saw on the close up of the carb openings in video 3 ?  Is this something I need to do or just clean everything out with the cleaner and then blow it all out with compressed air?      ???

9
Bet & Win 250 / Re: Kymco bet and win 250 carburetor jets
« on: August 08, 2014, 04:24:50 PM »
 Update on my 2006 B&W .   I have now been running my scoot up to this date with just the use of manual choke that Iinstalled in place of the bystarter and it has worked out great so far.  So my question ,  does  the bystarter circuit and idle circuit feed into basically the same main passage in the carb and if so why can't I just leave it the way it is and just open the manual choke just enough to keep it at idle and set the idle mix screw at 1/2 turn essentially bypassing the clogged idle circuit altogether? 

10
Bet & Win 250 / Re: Seat modification
« on: May 23, 2014, 10:40:31 AM »
I decided to reduce the hump by using a heat gun on the underlying plastic seat structure.   After heating to soften the hard plastic I cut some of the round flange I assume is for the helmet storage area by the hump and then kept heating the hump area until soft again and again then pushing from the top side to create a flatter  area were the hump was.  The soft foam  and the seat cover are still the same,  but the hard hump is all but gone.  I've taken the scoot for a ride after the modify and it made a world of difference.   I'm going to ride the scoot for awhile before I decide whether or not to modify the foam part as it is soft and doesn't bother me yet.     :)

11
Bet & Win 250 / Seat modification
« on: May 21, 2014, 12:40:38 PM »
The seat on my 06 Bet and Win 250 leaves a lot to be desired on a long ride in my opinion :(.  Even though I'm only 5,5 ft tall with 29 inseam I find that I feel like I'm being forced forward and up at the same time.  It seems that if I could reduce that hump that is in the seat it would improve the riding comfort level.  Anyone have the same experience?  Has anyone tried to modify or change the seat to help out this situation?
Thanks all,
OGBillyT63

12
Bet & Win 250 / Re: Kymco bet and win 250 carburetor jets
« on: April 03, 2014, 07:06:37 PM »
 Update:   Since I last posted I put seafoam in my gas tank and adjusted the manual choke that i installed as I rode in hopes that the idle mixture circuit would clear up eventually.  So today I went for a long run and when I got back I pushed the choke all the way in to see if it would idle and not stall out.   To my surprise it kept running at idle while just sitting on the stand,  so I'm thinking it is at least starting to clear up.    Kinda made my day 8).

13
Bet & Win 250 / Re: Kymco bet and win 250 carburetor jets
« on: March 14, 2014, 11:20:17 PM »
Update on carburetor on my 06 Bet and Win 250. 
I found a manual choke to replace the electric bystarter and installed it  and finally had some warmer weather to take it for a run.  I found that the scooter runs great with the 38 slow jet and 108 main jet with the choke is still engaged. However if I push the choke cable all the way in even after warm up it will stall out .   I'm thinking this could be a sign that the idle mixture screw is not working properly,  especially since after seating the screw and backing it out 1to almost 4turns doesn't seem to change the idle and I think the fuel should be coming from idle mix screw  after the choke if shut off ,  so hopefully that will clear up after some riding.  If not I'll take the carb apart and make sure the idle mix line is clear and see if it changes anything .  So for now I'm adjusting the choke as I ride.

 

14
Technical | How To / Re: Bystarter check
« on: February 21, 2014, 03:19:22 AM »
When I tried to pull the bystarter out it was past the O ring so the only thing that was stuck was the plunger.   I did do the test when I had the carb off with the by starter attached  hooked up to the battery with the blow test after warmed up ( the bystarter actually gets hot) and also after it cooled down and that test worked.  Did not check with ohm meter , not sure if I have the correct meter to do that test.  I do have a manual.   

15
Technical | How To / Re: Bystarter check
« on: February 20, 2014, 08:36:03 PM »
The bystarter is what it is called,  but it is a choke so to speak.  For the initial cold start the plunger allows more fuel into the carb and once the bystarter gets warm  the plunger shuts off that fuel supply to the carb and then the fuel should come from the slow jet,  the main jet and some from the idle mixture screw at least to my knowledge.

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