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Ok so I don't know what the above post is about and why people have to jack my thread but for those in the future  who own a Kymco Super 9 or have a quacking scooter the solution is as follows.

1. Remove the front axle bolt and axle.
2. Slide the speedo cable boot out from the wheel.
3. Add 2$ of grease all up inside that ..thing*
4. Reassemble everything.

* You might be missing a thin gasket on the inside which is why the speedo *tumbler is moving in and out a bit.

So I spent 350$ learning this 2$ lesson after messing up a speedometer unit and buying a new cable for nothing.
All it needed was grease and maybe the thin gasket which was missing inside the boot.

Ok well I opened up what I could of my speedo housing just now and made things worse.

I lubed the outside of the cup and inside the needle housing with jigaloo.

Now it says I go 80 when I do 30...and quacks.

Yay me, looking for a new or used assembly.

I'm just about done breaking in M3111667 myself.

I had it expertly installed and I am using Amsoil Saber pro. oil

I must say I have 0 overheating, no problems whatsoever, I hit 90kph on a sprint so far and thats with the stock aribox and carb.
I go up hills faster than 60kph if I want to and do 70 with my wife on the back.

I stay under 9000rpm with 7g weights and 1000 koso torque spring.
Koso variator, Kevlar belt, Malossi clutch, techni gas pipe.

However, if your stock 50cc engine is still mint(ish), go with 6g weights, 800rpm spring, remove the rev limiter wire on the cdi and you can hit 95kph.

I replaced my engine cus the bike I bought already had 20k so I figured it was time for a new engine and went M3111667.
Stock engine was still mintish when I saw the piston at the dealer. Oh well I have a spare.

Hi!,

Recently found a hidden bike at our Victoria BC Rally and it turns out to be an 07 lc Super 9!!!
I added a techni gas pipe, malossi 70cc bbk, and some sweet lighting!

Here's my problem. When I ride there is a little bit of play in the speedometer cable causing a rubbing between the metal cable itself and the outer plastic casing. If I could somehow keep the cable pulled up into the HUD display the sound would go away.
This isn't something that is broken but more of a common engineering problem from what the Canadian Kymco importer tells me.

Has anyone found a working solution to this?

-Lubing with graphite.
-Gluing/taping around either end to stick the cable in place.
-Adding some type of spacer to either end to push up the cable.

Thanks for any useful advice and access to this forum!