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OH! That video makes it look super easy. I have impact tools no problem. Guess I will give it a try tomorrow, and order up the cheaper kick start spindle.  With the whole regulator issue I am careful about what cheap parts I order since it doesn't come out cheaper to order parts twice.

I feel the need to apologize to you BettinANDlosing, when I saw your post this morning I thought "of course I checked that do you think I am stupid".  Well turns out I am stupid, went out and it was off.  I thought well I am sure I turned it on at sometime yesterday, clicked it to on and hit the starter and it started right up.  Guess I am not half the mechanic I like to think I am.  Anyway thanks for the reply BettinANDlosing and you were right it was the kill switch.

     Finally go the parts in, I order body parts along with the regulator.  Put it in and started it up, 13 volts at idle and 14.5 volts when revved up.  So I guess there is a difference from the cheapo part to the Kymco one.

     Got all the body parts on and took it for a test ride.  Of course it died and I had to push it all the way back home.  Checked the fuses and they were all good still.  Pulled the seat off again (I am getting good at that) and it looked like no fuel in the fuel filter.  Pulled the fuel filter and bypassed it with a hose and it started up again.  So replaced the lines and the fuel filter, which did have some junk in it but not much, and it started up.  Took it for about a 10 mile run and it seemed to run pretty good.  Will take it for a longer run tomorrow and see how it holds up.

I put a wire from the regulator mounting nut to the neg terminal of the battery.  I went with the battery since the neg wire from the battery goes to the chassis ground at the same point the ground strap to the engine ground connects.  I then started and checked the voltage and still running up to 16 volts when revved up.  So I connected another ground wire to the green wire from the regulator and ran it to the battery also.  Still running up to 16 volts when revved up.  What surprised me was that it did not blow the fuse.  I was expecting it to blow the fuse if I ran it without getting it fixed.  Not sure where to go from here, do you think that those wires have to go to chassis ground and not the battery?

Lets face it sometimes life likes to kick you when you are down.  So contrary to the first sentence I have had some continued success.

     I started out pulling the plug and looking at it. I opened the gap to the max the book stated since I was putting in a hotter coil.  The plug looked fine, I then unplugged the vacuum lines to everything but the fuel petcock and a line going to the carb.  It still ran like crap.  So I pulled the carb and put in the spare. Started it up and it ran pretty good.  I put all the tuperware back on and got ready to take it for a test spin.  After putting it on the side stand I thought I should check the tire pressure real quick. Came back with the pressure gauge and fuel was everywhere on the ground.  This is where I felt like I was being kicked while I was down.     Anyway, pulled everything back off and pulled the carb again (I am getting good at this) and looked at the float bowl overflow.  I could not see a problem but thought "I bet the original carb float bowl is the same size".  Took it off and swapped it and no more leak.  Back on went the plastics and off I went on the test ride.

     Good news: it ran smooth ran up to a indicated 60 and seemed to have its normal power (well maybe a little low).  Bad new it was smoking the whole time, did not notice till I stopped at the top of a hill, then smoke everywhere.  Also the voltage at the battery is high, 13 volts at idle but up to 15.7 or so when revved.

     On the smoking, I checked the oil when I got back and it was the correct level, I am not sure if maybe there is excess oil and fuel still in the exhaust? or if it is something else.

     On the maybe lack of power (it has been over 6 months since I last road it so not really sure as I don't remember well) it feels like maybe the throttle isn't twisting as much as I remember....or I am just comparing it to my motorcycle, I don't know.

Got the new petcock put in.  Started it up and it started ok, bit more cranking then it used to need when running great, but it did start.  Let it idle for 30 seconds or so and then gave it some gas.  At first it was still throwing liquid fuel out the exhaust.  Let it run for awhile longer thinking that if there was still gas in the smog system it might take a bit for it to get all out.  Sure enough after about 2 minutes of running I could rev it up and no gas.  However it is not running right, more smoke then I would expect and it wont idle (it was idling ok when cold) and when revved up it starts to stumble and wont rev past a certain point and really starts to smoke.  Think I am going to let it cool off and tomorrow I will swap the carbs again and see if it runs better with the other carb.  If it doesn't then.... well I am not sure but seems like it is a carb issue now.

After thinking for a day about the problems I came up with nothing, so I went out to tinker and hope something came to me.  When I went out I noticed a black thick looking fluid from up under the scooter kind of where the battery is.  Looked up inside there where some part of the vacuum system is and there was evidence of fuel there.  Went to start the scooter and it would not crank over.  Pulled the plug and fuel leaked out, and when cranked it shot out.  I am starting to think vacuum problem putting way to much fuel in??  I cant find any good charts in the manual that explains what each vacuum line does and what way it is sucking and or blowing.

On another note I pulled the reg/rec off and the red wire plug pulled out of the reg/rec and the plug is burned at the red wire. The red wire goes to the battery, so going to order a new one of those and find a new plug I guess.  Done with cranking at least until I get that under control.

I would like to take a moment and thank everyone that has responded.  I know it is a pain in the ass to try and diagnose a problem over the internet like this.

Getting fuel into my card is not the problem right now.  I have so much fuel going in that it is coming out the exhaust as a spray.

Question: the manual shows a slow jet, main jet, needle jet holder and a needle jet.  In my carb I have a slow jet, main jet on the top of the needle jet and the needle jet, but nothing on the bottom of the needle jet like the picture shows.  Am I missing a piece? or is the picture trying to show what is going on inside the needle jet holder?

I did find a little piece of something on the end of the slow jet, so maybe that was the problem?  The manual says to "Install the slow jet, needle jet, needle jet holder, main jet and pilot screw" (still haven't taken it out yet) the is says "standard opening 2+- 1/2 turns.  So how do I put these back in? Is there a special way? I am sure you can tell I don't know anything about carbs.