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Sprinkle some baking soda over the superglue. Creates an exothermic reaction that helps fuse the plastic. It sets quick and makes a hard bond.

Given this discussion about sliders, would it make sense to go up in weight just a bit if one has the 300cc upgrade kit installed? Any suggestions on what would be a good weight slider to use?

Stadium would be my go to source. The assembly means the "t" stat, retainer, and gasket.

Thank's for explaining this. I wasn't aware there were other parts to it. I only have the empty housing, so I guess I need the whole "assembly". $30+ sounds expensive... but I guess if I need it, then I need it. I've pretty much quit riding for fear of damaging it in this cold temperature. It never really warms up without the thermostat.

I aquired my scooter the same way: Impound yard. $200! And oddly enough, it was also suffering an overheating problem. The previous owner had already removed the thermostat, which I still need to replace, but can't seem to find where to get one! Can anyone give me a source? stadiumyamaha.com has an "assembly" for over $30!? That doesn't sound like what I need.

Anyway, I rode it once for a couple miles when I first got it, and it overheated so badly it destroyed the head gasket, piston and rings. So I ended up putting in the MRP 300cc upgrade kit. I think the overheating was caused by the coolant hoses leaking from loose clamps. At least that's the only problem I found when I went through it. Well, that and the blown head gasket. But was the blown head gasket a symptom or the cause? Just something else to check.

Also, the previous owner had put in a manual fan switch. I was riding it around town for upwards of 30 minutes, stop and go traffic, with the fan off (50-60F outside temps), and it never overheated. The needle would start climbing at stops, but would go down when air was moving from driving. So I'm doubtful that the fan is your problem, especially if you are overheating while driving in cool/cold temperatures. Like zombie said, start with pulling the thermostat out. And also see if it's dripping water when it gets hot. If so, locate where its dripping from and fix that.

... a match?  cigarette lighter?  LOL

as for the tender, seems like a week on the Ape and then a week on the Kymco sounds like a workable plan with only one tender.  You can get multi-battery tenders but I think the price is much higher.

I have this huge ex-Uhaul diesel truck that has 2 monstrous big giant batteries. I used my 1.5 amp schumacher motorcycle "battery maintainer" to charge these batteries together when they were too drained to crank the truck. Took about a week, but got them charged. And the little yellow light turned green after this week of charging, so that means it was done and wasn't over-charging right? Which means the "protection circuit" wasn't goofed by having 2 batteries on at once, right?

So, what if you put a set of jumper cables from one bike to the other, and kept them both going at the same time? Brain is stalled, so someone would have to inform as to which end of what wire would go where... but I don't see why it wouldn't work. (Just don't hook it in series, as that would make 24v and blow up the charger.)

...lmao...i'm sorry....i'll send your camera a present for christmas...

..i dunno, tho...the mic on mine is on the top...just a few small holes...hmmm...

I tried explaining that just because it can't perform well when hanging out naked in the wind at 50+MPH doesn't mean that it's worthless. It does in fact have 2 microphones on the front, which means that it has superior performance capability for things it was designed to do. Being strapped to a motorcycle helmet just isn't one of those things. lol. It's just sitting there on the shelf sulking right now, but I think it will recover. If I have to pay a therapist, I'm gonna just buy a new camera...

I still haven't found the oil screen yet i kind of gave up on it, is it on the bottom of the motor or on the side with the drain plug.

It's a 17mm bolt with a huge flange and is on the bottom of the motor, on the opposite side from the drain plug. Can't miss it, it's the only bolt down there.

When I was a teenager, I had a Renault R10. It had starter troubles at one time. The motor was in the back, in a longitudinal layout - i.e. the 4 cylinders went front to back, instead of being transverse like modern fwd cars. That's important for this story. The end of the crankshaft had a slot cut in it, and the body had a hole through it lined up with the crank... Now comes the tire tool with a special end to fit the crank... And me standing in a very busy parking lot at the back of my car where the whole world could observe, fitting the tire tool into the crank slot, and hand cranking my little car to start it. Imagine trying THAT at a traffic light!