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Messages - wildwildip

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1
Super 9 / Re: Install a top case on Kymco 9?
« on: May 03, 2016, 07:43:00 PM »
That Dracula guy on the other forum might have one, he has two basically parts s9s

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Do you have a photo of how the base attached to the scooter?

2
Super 9 / Re: Install a top case on Kymco 9?
« on: April 20, 2016, 03:35:56 AM »
I'm going to bump this because I am thinking about buying a super9 LC.

Can a top box fit these bikes?

3
For Sale / Re: FS - 2009 People S250 in Kansas City
« on: July 29, 2014, 01:12:03 PM »
Price reduced to 2100

4
People 250 / Re: P250S Wont Start - sputters only
« on: July 24, 2014, 09:20:23 PM »
On my P 250S, part of the spark plug boot got damaged. The metal that contacts the plug was bent. It can be removed and replaced. It made the scooter sputter and run good sometimes, bad other times, or just stall.

Seafoam the fuel system to clean it out.

5
For Sale / FS - 2009 People S250 in Kansas City
« on: July 22, 2014, 12:35:54 PM »
Kymco People S 250 - 2100 OBO
5,200 KM (3300 Miles) on the scooter. Selling because I don't ride it very much and have a motorcycle.

Scooter is in perfect shape, never dropped, abused, or left outside.
It also just had its 5000 KM service done, which includes, New Air Filter, New Fuel Filter, New Spark Plug, New Motor Oil, New Gear Oil, New Coolant,Valves Adjustment.

A very nice CooCase S28-B has been added to this scooter. It is lockable and is easily removed.
http://www.coocase.com/showcase/s28_vivo.html

I have also put a brand new battery in the scooter. I have receipts for everything listed.

This is a wonderful scooter, very light and powerful. The best mid size scooter available if you ask me, it has very large wheels compared to most scooters.
It will do highway speeds easily and is considered a motorcycle.

Here is a link to the scooters specs and info.
http://www.kymcousa.com/showroom/scooters/peopleS250/index.html
Kymco is a very well-known brand, and extremely reliable. Retail is $4,499.

Feel free to email me. Comes with clear title that I have, two ignition keys, two top box keys, owners manual, receipts and a genuine Kymco flag. This is a very clean scooter. You will not be disappointed.

7
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: July 01, 2014, 01:37:26 PM »
I removed the thermostat last night and overheat problem is gone. Kymco part# 19300.

I am a bit angry with my shop, as they told me they removed it and tested it, and it was good.  I had a heck of a time removing it, the bolts were on like they never had been removed. I will replace thermostat and see if it keeps on working, but it seriously looks like the thermostat wasn't fully opening after my initial coolant change. Debris must have gotten into the unit after the drain/refill and damaged it.

In short - if you change your coolant and then the bike overheats, pull thermostat first!  Don't listen to the shop technician and rebuild the motor top end like I did!

8
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: May 14, 2014, 02:45:27 AM »
Well after machining the cylinder and head to flat again the scooter has the same problem again.

The only thing I noticed was hot water getting to the radiator but no warm coolant getting out. Maybe the radiator is clogged or has blockage. Anyone know a way to test radiators for pressure and flow of coolant?

I have removed the radiator and run water though it, it comes out well enough. However I am not sure what I should be compairing it to? I will try my best to flush it, then put it back on and see. I will also remove the thermostat to ensure coolant is getting to the radiator, hopefully doing these two things will stop the overheat message I am getting.

9
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: March 25, 2014, 12:52:53 AM »
Well after machining the cylinder and head to flat again the scooter has the same problem again.

The only thing I noticed was hot water getting to the radiator but no warm coolant getting out. Maybe the radiator is clogged or has blockage. Anyone know a way to test radiators for pressure and flow of coolant?

10
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: March 11, 2014, 06:39:36 PM »
Well thats not good to hear.

update for all - scoot is not put back together yet. I will let you all know how it goes.

Mine was a P, not PS.

I sold it for scrap.
.

11
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: October 09, 2013, 01:25:10 PM »
Shop was offering to take another. 002 off the cylinder. I declined. It was not as warped as the head thus I didn't want to take that much off. I also am afraid of changing the compression ratio on the bike, so the less materiel removed the better.  My local kymco tech told me you could get a copper gasket that is + .002 thicker than stock, but you have to custom cust them out, and I dont know the thickness of the OEM head gasket.  As such I ordered a brand new cylinder head gasket and honed about .001 off the cylinder with 600 grit sand paper, just to ensure it was flat. I can go into detail on this process if anyone wants.

So to review,
cylinder head - wrapped by .002 - cylinder head shop took that much off and make it flat again.
cylinder - wrapped by .0015 - i honed .001 or so off it to make it smooth and flat again, really just removed the high spots.
head gasket - replaced with a brand new one.

All coolant is out of the bike, I have also drained all oil.  I will start re assembly tonight and advise on progress and how she does once it start it back up for a test idle.  Be sure to add coolant and oil to bike before you start it up again! Also, I am slightly nervious about the cam timing and cam chain tensioner, I need to be sure to get them installed correctly as to not bend a cylinder head valve.

12
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: October 03, 2013, 01:04:50 PM »
I have also removed the cylinder, it was warped somewhat. About .0015 according to my feeler gage. I am going to take it into the cylinder shop today to see if they can hone the top .0015 off it. I will then use a brand new head gasket and head gasket sealant to fill in any gaps or missed low spots.

13
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: September 28, 2013, 02:50:22 AM »
Shop said head was warped, they took .002 off the head, that's about .05 mm like the manual calls for.

Should I have the top of the cylinder checked as well now that the bottom of the cylinder head is fixed?

14
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: September 25, 2013, 06:12:56 PM »
The head is in a shop right now for mill work. They are going to remove .002 from it, which is .05 mm, which is the variance the manual calls for oddly enough.
I found a chip in one of the coolant ducts in the head. The shop tech told me it was a scratch? If so no clue how it got there considering I removed the head myself.

Anyway, I will get a new gasket and re install the thing. Hopefully that will correct the issue. I dont know if I should pull the cylinder or not? Now would be the time if needed.... Anyone know?

15
Technical | How To / Re: STILL with the overheating! P250
« on: September 19, 2013, 03:09:49 AM »
1.) That's the working theory, at least;
2.) You can test the radiator contents for exhaust fumes. There are kits that contain a chemical that will change color to indicate the presence of exhaust gases in the cooling system -- I do not have any first-hand experience with this, but several mechanics have described this to me.

3.) (in answer to compression, stroke, etc. in other post) -- Good questions. I'm guessing buying replacement head & cylinder is the only way to be sure, but I'd ask a machinist or very knowledgeable mechanic who rebuilds small engines.
.

JP you fix your 250S yet?

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