Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - ktienation

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
1
Technical | How To / AK 550 keyless knob light
« on: April 23, 2024, 11:11:02 AM »
Hello friends,

I have a question: My 2020 AK550's keyless knob light doesnt work. I once removed the plastic with the LEDs only to notice, the previous owner has removed the wires (seems to mee the red / blue light annoyed him for some reason). Therefore, i dont see any lighting when using my keyless knob.

I was thinking about soldering back the nescessary cables but I have no idea how the wireing should be done (there is no schematic in the service manual). Anybody have any schematics or photos of the comleate device so i can see how to do the job?

Everything works as it should, its just the led strip that is dead.

Thanks for help!
Piotr

2
Technical | How To / Re: AK550 handle replacement
« on: September 19, 2022, 07:57:20 PM »
My scoot has about 6k miles on the odo. The handle’s rubber was probably mechanically damaged somehow (I already bought it like that) - the throttle grip is in good shape). Therefore I want original or an OEM replacement. Probably I will just buy it from the importer in my city, but I would rather replace it myself than pay for the service, as I like doing such stuff and have some experience.

I would just appreciate some “walkthrough” not to mess something up.

3
Technical | How To / AK550 handle replacement
« on: September 19, 2022, 09:10:16 AM »
Hi Guys,

Have anybody replaced themselves the steering handles or just steering handles grips? My "non throttle" handle is extreamly worn out (heat wires exposed) and I need to replace it. The throttle grip is ok.

Is it possible to replace just the grips, or do I need to replace complete handle? Has anybody a manual for this / youtube video? Unfortunatelly Kymco's service manual says nothing about this procedure:(


4
Technical | How To / Re: Unscrewing variator nut
« on: September 11, 2022, 03:37:37 PM »
Problem solved. After applying 160 NM everything seems fine. I have only driven about 5-6 miles to test but it was only stop-wot-stop. The nut sits as it should. With the little heavier rollers I mounted (10%). Now the specs suit me more. Still I need to figure out how to make the clutch to engage faster (lower rpm), disengage later and be more 0-1 as the dry centrifugal clutches are. This wet multidisc has too much slip for me before fully locking.

5
Technical | How To / Re: Unscrewing variator nut
« on: September 08, 2022, 03:57:59 PM »
Same for me, but the manual for this particular model of scooter posted in the j costa webpage and shipped together with the vario sama 160 NM so i  know what they are doping (the vario model is also dedicated for the AK550, i.e. The Tmax 530 uses a differemt model).

It seams to make sense as as the only thing that holds the vario in place is the torque from the nut (The vario and it’s belt does not have teeth that clamp with the sprocket teeth of the shaft it sits one - quite strange for me but that is how it is - both the vario and the bell has a plain hole for the shaft).

The bolt is like 20mm (it’s mounted directly to the crankshaft like in all other scooters). The nut uses 27 wrench.

6
Technical | How To / Re: Unscrewing variator nut
« on: September 08, 2022, 11:44:42 AM »
Hmm I think I know now (I will test it tomorrow). I tighten the nut according to Kymco manual ~90 NM. But I found a YouTube wideo and than downloaded the j costa manual and it says not 90 but 160 NM for the j costa mount (same nut thought). It’s probably because the j costa bell doesn’t have the teeth on the bell which lock with the teeth in the crankshaft.

I hope it will solve the problem as 160 vs 90 looks like a really big difference.

7
Technical | How To / Re: Unscrewing variator nut
« on: September 08, 2022, 10:42:28 AM »
All elements mounted correctly,
Ak has a mechanism allowing to loosen the belt before tightening the nut.
The j costa has no teeth on its bell but it’s hold by 2 o rings before the nut (thin and thick).

I don’t know what I am doing wrong…
@ktienation,
I could only think of:
-variator not ecactely in its sprocket teeth, caused by pinching its belt during mounting
-is there any washer missing under this variator nut
-variator nut worn out
Pls give a feedback.

8
Technical | How To / Unscrewing variator nut
« on: September 08, 2022, 10:03:21 AM »
Hello guys, i just changed my j costa variator rollers in my ak550 for a bit heavier ones (but also recommended by the manufacturer for this scooter).

After a very short test drive (maybe 0,1 mile) and 2 accelerations the tightening nut holding the variatior to the crankshaft got completely loose :o despite the fact I applied the top recommended by the service manual force (90 nm) using a dynamo metric wrench.

It never happened to me before in any scooter I owned :o

Any idea what might be the cause? I am thinking about applying blue loctite but its not mentioned in the service manual so it should not happen without it…

9
Technical | How To / Re: AK550 J Costa fine tuning
« on: August 30, 2022, 07:30:26 PM »
Thanks for the replies. Well on my downtown I had little bit lighter than stock dr. Pulley rollers which give me wot at 6500 rpm (peak torque) instead of stock 5500 but apart from that all worked as stock. I know that the J costa works this was that it revs much higher and this is due to the construction of the vario. I don’t know if I have stock clutch but I believe it’s highly probable.

I have the feeling (but only my feeling) that in the Ak the clutch works a little different than in the DT, in particular, doing static tests with the cover removed I saw that the clutch engaged before the vario started to “change the gear”. Here in the AK I believe it needs specific rpm on the clutch input shaft and with stock the vario already changes the “gear” before engagement (the transmission belt’s output disc is much bigger than the input) and the J costa does not as it needs much higher revs to start changing the gear.

I think stiffer contra spring will offset higher slider weight and it will give same specs. I will try to buy a little heavier sliders and see if I am right, fortunately they are not very expensive where I live. 1k less for clutch is all I need and would be nice to keep same revs at wot for performance.


10
Technical | How To / AK550 J Costa fine tuning
« on: August 30, 2022, 09:23:01 AM »
Hello Lads and Gents,

I just recently bought my AK550 and I absolutely love it (I've been riding a DT300 for the last 8 years with over 25k miles on it).

My scoot is equiped with the aftermarket J Costa variator, and I knew it has specific characteristics (high revs etc). What I didn't expect (however I should have, as I test driven a few AKs at the dealer shop before buying) is that the AK clutch catches rather high (on mine first signs of clutch engageing comes at 4500 rpm). The above mix results it the fact, that starting from dead stop or even accelerating ie from 15 MPH or 30 MPH (doesnt matter) comes with the revs going up to 6-7k (even if accelerating very softly).

Just to make it clear, I love the acceleration and 7k at WOT is something completely normal, however, it would be really nice if delicate starting from a dead spot or delicate accelerating would come with 1-2k less rpm.

Now the question: how is the best way to do it (I am ok with jeopadizing the performance a little, as the scoot has more than enough acceleration for me in every speed range). Would you start with buying heavier sliders for the J Costa? My first thaught was just softer springs in the clutch, but that i noticed this one has not a simple centrifugal scooter clutch but wet multidisc, so it would be way more difficult if no impossible in modding it to engage at lower rpm.

Thanks for all the tips and thaughts.

11
Downtown 300 / Re: MAINTAINING THE DOWNTOWN SCOOT! TIPS & TRICKS :D
« on: October 10, 2016, 09:53:42 AM »
My god. Is that an used machine? The engine looks like brand new. My one is full of dirt, rests of oil, mud etc:( Do you guys clean your engines with something?
Peter

12
Downtown 300 / Re: Downtown Valve Adjustments?
« on: October 10, 2016, 09:45:33 AM »
I check my valves every 2 inspections (10k km). For the first time the valves (exhaust) needed some minor adjustment yesterday (40k km). All the proces rook about 40 mins (with disassembly and assembly of the scoot).
Peter

13
Downtown 300 / Re: Remove variator without air tool
« on: October 04, 2016, 03:22:21 PM »
I made my one with a wooden terrace plank (left from building my terrace). I have cut it with a jigsaw to about 60 cm long, then I have cut a square hole so there is place for the wrench to grab the nut, and drilled two holes in the "arms" of the appropriate diameter. When i use this "tool" i put two drill bits in the wholes in the "tool" and then I attach this to the variator.

Total cost for me was 0$, time to manufacture the tool ~10 minutes. Work great.

If you cannot imagine how this marvelous device looks like I can take a foto in the evening and post it here:)
             

14
Downtown 300 / Re: Loss of power
« on: September 22, 2016, 01:59:35 PM »
Wheels, thanks for your reply. Thats not my case. The spark i under 5k miles and it is not really a high rpm drop, as when i am riding i.e. 70 mph on 6,5k rpm, then when i throttle up, the power is there and its ok.

15
Downtown 300 / Re: Loss of power
« on: September 22, 2016, 12:47:56 PM »
Yes, that is also my guess. Any idea how can I check it? I have a spare OEM spring but no tools to disasambly / asambly the unit:/

Pages: [1] 2 3 4