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Could someone with more electrical experience tell me where do the flasher relay pins lead to when connected to the counter part:

(Click to enlarge)

Is it Green to ground, Black to +12V to battery and Grey to the flasher switch?

Cheers.

If you got spark and do get fuel by sucking, maybe the intake manifold or the gasket between carb and cylinder head has leaks and not creating enough under pressure to suck fuel to the carb. While you have the carb out, check those as well for visible cracks etc.
Fill the carb by sucking the under pressure hose and see if it starts but dyes soon.
You might want to check the diaphragm of the carb as well. And try to open the carb again  from the other end as well cos there might be something stuck in the jets.
Put some crc on the screw and press downwards with force with the screwdriver and see if the screw opens. If not use a drill and get a new screw.

If that fails;
you might need to check if valves are okey but that takes a bit more tools and time. You'll find videos on youtube about taking apart a gy6 cylinder head etc.

I haven't really used the kick start since may but noticed that if the engine is cold I can get the scoot to start with kick start after few kicks but if the engine is warm then I either can't get it to start with kick start or it takes a lot of tries and luck.

Also I have noticed that the scoot eats oil.  Switched to 20w-50 and it still eats oil but not at much...


I'll change the cylinder, piston and gaskets later in the summer and let you know if it helps.

Valve adjustment was the last thing I did and by few days I meant that during that time I tried starting it couple of times and it kept doing it better and better. I was told elsewhere that if the valve clearance had been almost 0 it would get better by driving after adjustment. I did not add any gas and the gas that is in there is the second premium out there with 5% ethanol. It is almost impossible nowadays around here to find gas without some ethanol.

Anyway, I adjusted the intake valve 2 times now and the ticking sound has diminished.

When you cleaned/greased, did you put grease on the cylinder seen at the top of this photo? (this is the part that sits in/spins in the transmission cover. Cleaning/greasing this solved my kickstarter problem before. http://www.bikescooterparts.com/7145-8050-large/kickstarter-tandwiel-kymco-agility.jpg

If that part is not clean and greased and won't be able to spin out and turn the engine. Does it feel like it is turning the engine when you use the foot crank?

Yep, I did clean it and grease it and  the kick is spinning the engine and almost making it start.  So i think it is not a mechanical problem with the kick start system.
(Cleaning and greasing the ring and the track in the part at the pic did solve my problem of kick start not returning after a kick.)

Imo the problem must be on the fuel system or some sort of compression problem.  I suppose I have to just keep digging till I find the source of the problem.

Bike is from 2011. It is 4T with roughly 7600km in the meter.

I took it out of the winter hibernation like a month before the oil change and it worked before and after the oil change albeit starting was getting tougher after it and then I noticed that the kick start was not getting the job done no more. Kick start used to be surest way to get the scoot going when temperatures were low.
About the variables;
I did put maybe a bit too much oil in the change and took out some oil after few days so that the level was at the middle of the oil stick and not little over the max level.
After the hibernation i did drive few days until I noticed that i needed to add some motor oil (2dl) and transmission oil.

There is indeed spark in the plug, though i am not sure if the spark is strong enough cos I can't compare it to anything. The plug is a Iridium one and cap is right. Carb gets gas so I did not yet clean the gas filter nor check the petcock. Filter is not transparent so I can't see if there is gas there. But I guess there is. Going to check/clean those next then.
I have also changed the air filter to a new one at the same time I changed oil.

The scoot is still starting from the electric starter. I have tuned few times the fuel/air mix and going to still do it more precisely soon.
Intake valve was roughly 0.05mm and exhaust valve under that. I put both to roughly 0.08mm, which is the recommended value here in north. I have order already a new spark wire. There was little brittle in it in the top cover but there seems to be an extra cover underneath it.
I have cleaned the variator and kick start system, bendix etc. and put some grease to the places that require it.

Edit: I also changed the battery after the hibernation cos the old one was pretty done. Got a new 7Ah one to replace the 4Ah original.