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The battery light being on might indicate a low battery, and a problem with the charging circuit. Connect a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running above idle and ensure the charging voltage reads above 13 volts. If it doesn't, then you'll have to troubleshoot the battery and charging system. Of course, look for loose connections first.

If the charging voltage is OK, I would check the fuses. There is one that primarily provides power to the instrument panel. If I remember correctly, the fuses are located to the left of the battery. Use a meter to do the check. You can find generalized instructions for checking fuses on Youtube.

If you need a mechanic, you don't need a Kymco garage specifically. Any competent motorcycle or scooter mechanic should be able to handle the problem for you.

One more note on the function of these regulators. The ones with the black sensing wire are internally different from those without. The ones without the black sensing wire don't need an on/off signal to operate, and they act like an open circuit automatically when their output is less than the battery voltage. So they won't drain the battery when the scooter is not running. The ones with the black wire need the electrical signal to switch them off, otherwise they would drain the battery. So internally there are two distinct types of regulator circuits. The other variable is the capacity rating, i.e., how much current the regulator can supply. This is not shown on the regulators and is not listed in their specifications as far as I can see, but you can get a general seat-of-the-pants estimate by comparing the physical size of the regulator and its heat sink/fins, and also the thickness of its connecting wires. If the wires are thin, they cannot carry much current, while thick wires mean a lot of current capacity. Also, and this is just a guess, I noticed that most manufacturers, and particularly Honda, employ the regulators with the black sensing wire, so I think that is the superior setup.

About the dual wires being really one? It's just the wiring design conventions that engineers (usually) follow. Red is most always the hot side of the battery and green is ground. If you look at the schematics for any of those regulators with a double wire output, like a VF700C for example, both of the same colored wires end up hooked together upstream. This is done to provide increased current capacity. They could have used a fatter wire instead, but the two thinner wires are more flexible and easier to group in a harness.

I've had cold starting problems with my 2007 Xciting 500. Here's what I most recently did. My regulator/rectifier only put a maximum of 13.2 volts to the battery. Type of battery didn't matter, new, old, or even lithium. Charge voltage didn't rise above 13.2v. The stator output is fine, about 25vac across each phase at idle, 60vac when revved. In my experience on other scooters and motorcycles, the voltage at the battery should rise up to the low 14s, usually about 14.5, when the battery is fully charged. So I got a new replacement Kymco regulator, and it behaved identically, i.e. not more than 13.2 volts. I saw some discussion about replacing Kymco regulators with an old Honda regulator that is a Shindengen 232-12 (used on CM400 and CX500 models, and maybe others). I got one from Ebay for $12 including shipping. The Shindengen regulator is a 6-wire unit, while the Kymco is a 5-wire, and the 6th wire (the black wire) needs to be connected to a switched 12-volt source. The Honda regulator has different electrical connectors. I cut them off and used the connectors from my replacement Kymco unit, soldering them to the Shindengen wires (same color wire: 3 yellow, 1 red, 1 green), so I wouldn't have to alter the stock wire harness. The black wire I spliced into the brown wire of the hazard unit, which is right next to the rectifier. (The brown wire provides 12v to the tail lights.) I used a bullet connector on the black wire, so I can unplug and remove the new rectifier if it should become necessary. The new regulator works great and gets the charging voltage up where it should be. Voltage at the battery is 13.5v at idle, rising to 13.9v in a couple of minutes as the engine warms, and I expect it will rise above 14 after a while, though I haven't road tested yet to see. I'm pretty sure this will give the battery a little more oomph when it's cold, although I'll have to wait for next winter to find out. I should mention, in case anyone is interested, the mounting holes of the Honda unit are slightly further apart than the Kymco, but the aluminum case is pretty soft and easy to modify. I notched out the material inside the bottom mounting hole, using my band saw, until I could get the top hole lined up and secured it with just one nut on top, which seems to be plenty.

I looked at the schematic and it seems that all power to the display module comes from the ignition switch. Unless you have a shorted wire somewhere, the ignition switch is likely the problem. It should disconnect the power when turned Off. A contact inside the switch mechanism is making a connection that it shouldn't be.  I would get some electrical contact cleaner (comes in a spray can with a thin straw-like nozzle), and spray it liberally down deep into the keyhole. The cleaner won't hurt anything -- it evaporates and leaves a protective film on electrical contacts and a very fine lubricant on mechanical parts. If you have the fairing off, you might be able to get the spray into the ignition switch contacts, which are likely down toward the bottom of the unit. Look for any open slots or holes to spray into. Then, with the battery disconnected, exercise the keyswitch back and forth through its range a couple of dozen times. Reconnect the battery and find out if this helped. Alternatively, or if that doesn't do any good, you can use an ohmmeter in conjunction with the schematic and test the ignition switch, if you know how to read a schematic. Last ditch effort would be to replace the ignition switch -- but I would test the switch first. Last thought: while unlikely, look for pinched or exposed wires in the ignition switch and dash area.

Wow, that is quite a puzzler. It certainly seems that such a large quantity of oil vanishing should leave more evidence behind, i.e. puddles of oil or smoke. I think you have covered all the bases, but then the oil must be going somewhere. Perhaps it only leaks at higher RPM and blows away at speed. If that were the case (and I doubt it would be), then an inspection of the engine exterior should show some area wet with oil. If 750 ml were leaking out of the alternator wire grommet (and here again I doubt that it could), it should be pretty wet in that area. You said the expansion tank coolant looks okay -- check the radiator, because sometimes the contaminated coolant might not be getting to the expansion tank. Also, your oil is not milky?

I think six hours of work sounds about right. I just did this job on my Xciting 500 a couple of months ago. First removing a bunch of body panels (about 20 minutes work). Then drain coolant and remove water pump (15 minutes). The remove about 20 bolts that hold the engine right side cover on (20 minutes). Then I had to remove something on the rear suspension (I don't remember what) that prevented removal of the side cover (