Newly cleaned and tuned carb bogging

[MN_Scoot]

Last riding season, I had some slight bogging when starting from stop signs. I would have to feather the throttle before it finally "caught" then, it'd accelerate fine.

Trying to solve this annoying problem, I recently took apart and cleaned my carb -used carb cleaner throughout and replaced the gasket, and o-rings. When done, I adjusted the air/fuel mixture after a 10 minute warmup and taking plenty of catchup time between 1/8 adjustments. I even used a digital tach to set the idle to Kymco spec 1900.

I also replaced the fuel filter, air filter, spark plug and cracked ignition coil.

The bog was still there, but it otherwise ran pretty well the first couple rides.

Now tonight, it not only bogged so bad it never caught and would die at intersections, it also would sometimes die as soon as I let off the throttle approaching stop lights (especially after full throttle). It didnt want to start after these, and i would have to hold the throttle all the way open before it would begin starting again. At some intersections, it would be just fine.

Could it possible have anything to do with the autochoke becoming faulty? Seems like that might explain the intermittent nature of this problem.

Appreciate any help. Banging my head against a wall here.

[nightriderrv]

That AC could the problem I removed mine in favor of a manual one way better. When was the last time the valves were adjusted, valves too tight or too loose will have you thinking other things is wrong. Start with the basic stuff first Fuel,
Spark, Compression and correct valve gap I have a agility 50 4t and I set mine at 4mm both of them

[Stig / Major Tom]

That AC could the problem I removed mine in favor of a manual one way better. When was the last time the valves were adjusted, valves too tight or too loose will have you thinking other things is wrong. Start with the basic stuff first Fuel,
Spark, Compression and correct valve gap I have a agility 50 4t and I set mine at 4mm both of them

I know nothing about Agility scoots...but did you mean .004inches, or.10 mm ??....rather than 4mm!? That's a heck of a valve lash!
Stig

[MN_Scoot]

That AC could the problem I removed mine in favor of a manual one way better. When was the last time the valves were adjusted, valves too tight or too loose will have you thinking other things is wrong. Start with the basic stuff first Fuel,
Spark, Compression and correct valve gap I have a agility 50 4t and I set mine at 4mm both of them

I forgot to add adjust valve clearance to my list. That was done a month ago as well.

[DMblues01]

Definitely check the auto choke! My Super 8 150 acted exactly the same one day. When I got to troubleshooting, I found that the auto choke had come unplugged somehow. After plugging it back in, I haven't had the problem since.
So check to make sure it's still plugged in. If it is, then check that it's working properly. 

[BettinANDlosing]

Sounds like the carb is still plugged, honestly 99% of the time the ONLY thing that needs cleaning in the carb is the idle jet (slow jet). Find an old brake cable off a bicycle and take one strand off then send that through the idle jet until you can see light through it and blow air through it. Make sure the Air/fuel is set to 2-1/2 turns out +/- 1/2. All of these bikes run much, much better with the emissions system deleted. Also with all this e10 crap make sure you flushed all the old gas out and replaced it with fresh. Bogging is a carb issue. Good luck!!!

[JJJoseph]

The villain is often the cheap Chinese O-rings between carb and engine.  They go flat from the heat and leak, causing a lean condition.  2-strokes & 4-strokes are different, the 4-strokes just won't idle or start at all when the O-rings are leaking.  Cheap O-rings can make you crazy.

[blue]

Check for air leaks around the carb wear it bolts to the motor and see if the intake is cracked.

[MN_Scoot]

Thanks everyone for the input. I finally got time to open her up the other day and it turned out being an easier fix than I thought for once! The clamp that attaches the carb to the intake wasn't tight enough and vibration had rattled the carb about 80% free from the intake. I specifically remember tightening that clamp to the point where I could see the metal just began to bend where the bolt goes. So although I tightened it more than stock when I put the carb back in, perhaps these clamps need to be replaced after removal?…or at least over-tightened. It's running like a champ again. Thanks again everyone. I went in knowing I had one of the right solutions from all the help.

[BettinANDlosing]

They aren't the best design of hose clamp. If it comes loose again replace it with a regular style 8mm hose clamp. Also that's something else to watch out for, cracks in the intake will act the same way!!

[zombie]

I worked in a shop where the owner had a saying that stuck with me.

Re-using hose clamps is like putting on dirty clothes after a shower.