Importance of valve adjustment question.

[Mscmkr]

I am about to take my Like into the dealer for the 600 mile check. The manual says I should have the valves adjusted at this point. I called the dealer and talked to them about it and they said it's not necessary but they will check it. They said they have never had to adjust the valves on a Like before so they should not have to do mine. I don't trust this dealer as far as I can throw them so im wondering, how important is the valve adjustment at this point? I'm thinking it is. Any input here would be great.

Thanks everyone and be safe, mscmkr

[CROSSBOLT]

Msc, I think it is VERY important for the first check since ALL the valves were tight on ALL the Kymcos we have had (Agility 50, Yager 200i, Like 200i and DT300i). None were holding any valve open but were considerably tighter than the .004" specified. Once carefully adjusted and locked by the nut, they do not seem to change over time.

Karl

[Stig / Major Tom]

Sorry to hear your dealer issue.
FYI- one of my valves was a little tight on my LIKE 200i.
When my dealer told me they wanted more than 10% of the OTR price for my scoot's 600 mile service, I bought cyclepedia's manual and a large Tim Horton's coffee and began doing all the scoot's servicing. I keep receipts, a photo and written log of the servicing. After looking at owner's comments and the prices for new parts, I decided 2 things:This scoot ain't gonna break in 2 yrs if I treat it half way decent; and if I do have, and lose, a warranty dispute - the parts are cheaper than the servicing!
Actually, this scoot gets more frequent servicing than the book calls for. More freq. valve checks [because it's fun to do], and more freq. trans. and engine oil changes [same reason]
I did let them put on my new Michelins which I bought on-line a lot cheaper. They haven't seen my scoot since then.

So, to your issue.
Your valves might need adjusting (are you following the break-in pattern as described in your manual? That manual also loudly stipulates that that first service is the most important your scoot will ever get!)
If you don't trust these yayhoo's to do the work - is there another bike or scooter shop you could take it to?
I guess you could let them do the work, pay them and then check things yourself. It is not that hard to do - and it helps you bond with your scoot to do the servicing. Certainly all the oil changes are a snap and the valves are not much harder to do. There are a lot of helpful videos, even one here on this forum for the LIKE.
Remember: the engine has to be stone cold to check the valves. Do not WAIT for the servicing . Drop it off the day before the appointment so it can sit over night. If they do it any other way - their methods are suspect.

Please let us know how you make out.
As happens too often.....you have a great vehicle and a suspect dealer.
Stig

[Mscmkr]

Thanks guys and now I'm even more suspicious of these guys. They said I can ride the scooter in and they can check the valves, do both the gear and engine oil change in about an hour and I will on my way. Doesn't sound good. I think im off to buy the manual Stig found.

Thanks again and I will let you guys know how it turns out, ride safe.

[tclhb]

Search YouTube. Type in Kymco like 200i valve clearance check. There's an excellent video that walks you through the entire process. I'm not all that mechanically inclined, but with the help of the video I found it to be pretty easy. I did my first check at about 1000 miles. Intake valve was almost 0.005, but I did not adjust. The second check was maybe 3500 miles, and the intake was 0.005" and I adjusted it to 0.004". The exhaust valve was spot on 0.004".  I'll check them again at around 6000 miles.
When no adjustment is necessary it's about an hour. With adjustment it takes a good twenty minutes longer, as I try and get it perfect.

[Vivo]

A little clarification... valves need not be adjusted BUT they must be periodically checked... if it needs adjustment, then adjust... 

[NeoGenesisMax]

My dealer also told me that the valve adjustment wasn't necessary.  I'm enclined to agree with them. They are the best in KC and at what they do. I do plan on doing it later down the road, maybe the fourth service. It does look really easy thought. Just have to have a torque wrench fo the valve cover and locking nuts. Remove the seat, undereat panel, battery panel, then the engine cover panel near the battery cover panel. Disconnect the battery and spark plug. Remove valve cover bolts making note of what size bolt went in what hole. Turn the motor to top dead center possibly by turning the fan with a socket wrench, I believe clockwise.  Three holes on the gear with the chain on it will indicate where TDC is. Two small ones will line up with the top of the motor and one larger hole will be between them and at the highest point it can be at. Check with your feeler gauge and then if necessary Unscrew the lock nuts where needed and adjust the valves adjuster nut as needed. Then go in reverse to re build. Making sure to follow torque specs on the lock nuts and valve cover bolts also possibly putting the bolts in diagonal from each other before torque-ing in the same order. Its a good time to check your plug gap too. If i missed anything important im sure stig will let us know.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Nice write-up NeoGen,
But I gotta go with the book written by the folks who built these engines. See page 30 of the owner's manual for the valve clearance inspection schedule. Sure, the valves may not need to be adjusted for 1,000's of miles....but it's my engine now, not my dealer's. So, I want them checked, then I'll leave them alone....until next time.
Our member/friend up in Canada [exhalent99] posted this great video of a LIKE 200i valve lash check:


Re. the video: remove negative battery cable first (cover w/heavy cloth and leave battery in place)
                      add a drop of oil to the nut and screw when checking clearance
                      spin engine again, and re-check valve lash if you had to adjust clearance
                      add a bit of heavy oil (gear oil is good) to parts before replacing valve cover

Some comments:
Driving aircooled VW's for a few decades - I've learned a few things about checking/adjusting valves.
1) Do it with a stone cold engine which sat over-night.
2) Find top-dead-center on the compression stroke accurately to check the valve clearance!
     Here are some pics to do just that:
Pry off the plastic coin-sized plug on the fan cover.
Rotate the engine clock-wise w/ 14mm socket until the T appears (use a flashlight to see in there)
When the camshaft sprocket lines up as in the picture and the "T" is in the viewing window - you are good to go!
[You should be able to feel a slight bit of movement between the valve stem and adjuster screw when you grab the adjuster if you are at TDC]

[tclhb]

I just throw a rag over the battery just incase I drop a tool on it. I don't bother disconnecting the battery. It is not necessary to disconnect the spark plug unless you are replacing the plug. There is on small hose that you need to take loose and layer pit back on. It's all in the video.
I followed the video the first time and removed the battery. I think that's overkill though.