clutch not disengaging

[Triesandluth]

I took my scoot to the guy/mechanic i bought it from and did some tinkering with him. Found that i have red clutch springs and a red torque spring.  Also, my ramps in my variator were beat up and the variator face had wicked grooves in it, not allowing the belt to ride all the way up. We changed the variator, put a stock torque spring, and a new belt. He swapped me the original kymco cdi for the restricted e-ton cdi that was in it. (he only wanted to charge me 32 bucks for the belt, but i gave him 45, and my word on going back to him for parts/repairs)

My take off is much smoother, my top end is way better. I was only getting up to about 40 mph gps downhill, maxing to 8k rpms before the rev limit was hit. now i could get along with the speedo past numbers at barely 7.5k rpms. Still low power, maybe the rings going out (plans to get a new piston and rings soon, then malossi 70cc kit, maybe).

Issue hit today, pulling up to a stop light. As i slowed to a stop the engine died. pushed it off the road with resistance from the wheel. noticed that the clutch wasnt disengaging. This had happened a few times previously but i thought it was something else. It remedied itself without me getting to the cvt. This time i couldnt get it to work right, so i had to get it the mile home by doing california rolls at stop signs, ha ha.

I'm buying an impact in the morning so i can do the removal myself. WHen we had it apart the clutch looked to be in good shape, yet that issue had come and gone before changing anything. Bearings looked great and freshly greased, springs in nice condition, pads looked great as well. not quite sure what the problem is. anyone ever experience this?

[Areomyst]

I have seen it happen a few times over the years.  It could be any number of different problems, but typically what I see is that either a clutch spring broke, or the clutch shoe itself broke, so the spring no longer has anything to hold on to.

You can get the clutch bell off without an impact gun if you need to.  You can use a locking chain clamp (http://www.harborfreight.com/locking-chain-clamp-36813.html) or even one of those oil filter wrenches with the rubber strap to hold the clutch bell still while you remove the clutch nut.

You can also lock the rear brake or the wheel into place to keep the input shaft from moving while you remove the nut.

I hope this helps!

~Josh

[tortoise]

clutch wasnt disengaging

The large clutch nut may have loosened and is contacting the inner surface of the bell.

Clutch bell holding tool.

[Triesandluth]

Thanks!  Wish I would've seen this post before going up to harbor freight this morning.  I picked up a hammer drill with hopes of it doing the same thing as an impact.  Failed.  Trying to be cheap just made me waste time and almost freeze to death. 
Odd thing is that it was free when I took it apart this morning. Like maybe it expands when hot? And we just had it fully disassembled the other day and it looked like it was all in working order.
I ran in without the cover to see what was happening.  It moved almost completely free,  with slight movements once in a while.  Revving it,  everything seemed to move fine,  but after I could hear a pad(s) rub the bell.  Then it would start to try to catch.  Out of desperation I whacked it a few times.  No help.

I'm stumped until I get the bell off. 

[BettinANDlosing]

It's the large clutch nut coming lose, the one that holds the torque spring down. If it even it's slightly lose it'll do that. Did your guy just an impact our just pliers to tighten it, loc tight? If you don't have either you can use a large flathead screwdriver and a heavy hammer and pound the nut tight but you HAVE to use loctite

[Triesandluth]

He used the screw driver hammer method.  While he was doing it he stressed the importance of tightening that nut very well.  I've got locktite and plan to use it once removing it.  Yet it did it prior to the first removal,  and was on tight as hell when taking it apart.  As I tried to ride it today it was fine until I got to the gas station.  It stopped just fine,  ran okay there.  When I started it after fueling up it immediately died.  No sputter,  just instant from 3k to nothing.  Gave me hell,  would low idle but any touch of the throttle would kill it,  no hesitation.  I'm not sure what's going on.

[BettinANDlosing]

^^^^^ That sounds like carb issues. If the clutch is binding up you won't be able to push the scooter and it will want to drive when idling, like a car stuck in 1st. It sounds like you need a carb clean, or adjustment.

[Triesandluth]

I'm going to try to tear the carb apart again to see if there's anything going on.  I did find that there was no air filter (!!!) in the box after I cleaned it the last time.  I'll also play with the a/f ratio a bit.  Hopefully I can get it right so I can stop riding that dreaded little taotao. Sadly,  it's the fastest and most dependable out of the two at the moment...

[Triesandluth]

The chain clamp worked wonders.  And if I blow a belt it can easily be transported for replacing. And as expected,  large nut had came loose. Pulled it off,  locktite the hell out of it,  and put it back on using a hammer and punch.  The crescent wrench I bought was a hair small. All good there.
The carb was recleaned. Didn't seem to change anything.  I took the air filter off,  warmed it up,  jacked with the a/f after checking vacuum, found a sweet spot,  and reassembled.  It didn't die off spontaneously during my test ride,  but I only got wide open for a bit. Not the usual long full throttle.  Still weak...  Maybe the piston and rings.  Is like to try a bigger jet first though. 
So much I want to try!!!

[Triesandluth]

Still dies.  See my new post if you want...