Headless bolt /screw, and stalling after wot, tgb

[Triesandluth]

So I'm posting here because I've been taught so much by the forum members here and helped in numerous occasions. 
This is about a tgb r50x that I've bought used.  I'm having problems with it dying after riding wot when it goes back to idle.  Like spark lack or fuel lack.  I check the bowl after it dies and there's fuel,  and check the spark and there's spark.  So now I'm trying to inspect the reeds. 
As I've read,  there's a headless bolt or screw that is prohibiting me from getting the intake off.  Any one know the trick to getting that bad boy off?  I didn't want to cut it off to find it still stuck.  Maybe some good ol vise grips? 

[zombie]

Can you post a Pict? I'm not sure I follow where you mean...

I wouldn't suspect reeds tho...

Can you describe in more detail what it is doing? Will it re-start right away?

Does it die at wot? Stop lights?

If it has to cool off before starting it could be the coil, stator, or CDI.

I think I mentioned once that there is a NEW part number for the OEM stator, and cdi due to issues they had.

[GLV55]

When we run across those headless bolts on car ignitions at the Lock Shop, we do one of 2 things, depending on the room we have to work around the bolt:
1. Use a dremmel with a cutting disk and cut a slot across the bolt head, then use a standard slotted screwdriver to remove it.
OR...
2. Get a hammer and a pointed nail punch and work your way around the circumference, tapping the punch into the bolt head to loosen it and eventually remove it.

Without knowing what you are into, that's the best that I can suggest. Good luck.

[de dee]

  I ran into a headless bolt on my downtown, took it off with vice grips, there is no head on them , the head sheers off when it is installed,

[Triesandluth]

Thanks all. 
Zombie,  I will post tomorrow morning after work a picture.  It looks like it wants to be a Allen head bolt,  but with a filled area where the wrench would go. That's at the intake,  the other three bolts are normal.  It only dies if I let it return to idle after wot,  after maybe five seconds,  then it won't restart for a few minutes.  I'll look at the stator and check about that.  I've heard similar about it. 
I figured that with the age of the bike that the reeds may be old anyhow,  and also heard that they restricted it with metal ones or something.  And I have intention of a bigger intake at some point. And carb.  I've heard a lot about the mikuni carbs being temperamental.  I have two for this...
I'm going to try to cut a slot in it,  already tried for a minute with a small hack saw,  but was running late.  I'm not sure if my little drimmel tool will get it.  May need to upgrade. 
Besides looking at the part number,  is there a way to tell if it's the stator causing the problem?  I've suspected the coil,  wire,  etc,  and checked them all,  but not the stator.  It's doing a great job at keep ping the battery up.
Oh,  cdi is one of those aftermarket metallic blue ones that says racing on it.  I'm not too sure of it...

[Triesandluth]

Here's the bolt.  I'm going to try several things,  but I'm leaning more towards bad stator. Too tired to get dirty at the moment. 
And pardon the mess.  There was a leaking oil line when I got it,  and there's no telling how long it was rode like that unless I carbon date some of the build up that's all over the back of the engine.  I've cleaned it up considerably and it's still horrid.  Gotta get it to the wash!
After looking, I'm glad I didn't get it loose yet.  I really shouldn't open it up anymore with that much crud around it...

[zombie]

That's just a stud w/ a stripped / rounded nut on it.

Vice grips bro.

You'r stalling sounds like it is just flooding.

When you throttle down the engine is still spinning fast enough to suck fuel thru the main. Try adjusting the idle mix better or going one size smaller on the pilot.

[Triesandluth]

I'll check the pilot and see what size it is after attempting the a/f ratio.  It's the opposite in this compared to my super9 since the screws on the air filter side of the carb,  right?  In is more air?

[Triesandluth]

I can't imagine the pilot being too big.  It originally had a 60 main that I switched for a 70. I wasn't keen on the lightness of the plug chop.

[zombie]

If the screw is on the air filter side... In is Richer/less air.

If as I suspect it is flooding on De accell, then turning the air screw out should help, unless the carb is fouled up.

Really the first thing I would do is get a tooth brush, and a couple cans of spray de-greaser... Clean it all up, and then rebuild the carb.

Take note of the jets, and get a few up, and a few down from what you have.
New spark, fuel filter, air filter, and compression test.

That's the first thing(s) I always do. I consider it a blessing if a used bike even runs. I would never ride one till I've been all thru it.

[Triesandluth]

I'm learning that now.  I've been cleaning up the crap on it this evening,  tore apart the carb again and checked the pilot,  17.5, so lower probably isn't going to help.  Out of curiosity I put in the 20 I have.  I'm going to change the rear brake pads tonight and clean it more,  then when it's normal time to be making noise I'll see what happens. 
Another bit of info on what it does,  it will idle rather high after stopping usually,  like bleeding over from being wide open, then when it settles to normal it dies.  If I give it a little rev to keep the rpms from steadying then it stays running.
I feel like I've had this problem before,  seen the answer,  been told the answer,  and fixed it before.  With the S9 it wasn't a problem after trimming the plug wire...

Plug was New,  less than twenty miles on it, new plug cap and freshly trimmed wire, new fuel filter,  I went to clean the air filter and it was cleaner and in better shape than the filter in my ol reliable,  compression test tomorrow.

[Triesandluth]

I'm really thinking that it's the stator problem.  Unless I am grounded out somewhere,  I was getting no spark after it died today. It was running okay,  idling,  then would die.  I ran it up the road and back and let it die.  Then very weak spark shortly after sitting.  But after sitting a while it gets noticeable spark. 
The stator has a date stamped on it saying 2006. I've yet to get into it entirely.  I need a puller of sorts to remove it,  right?  I've always avoided the stator like the plague... 

[Triesandluth]

Stator is actually 2012. Flywheel says 2006. Cdi,  coil,  and stator all check out.  Back to the carb/fuel issue.... Sigh...  When will I ever learn...

[zombie]

It's a pain to trouble shoot electrical if that is what it is.

I gave up, and just order one of each (stator, cdi, coil, rectifier)

Yours does sound like a fuel issue tho. Did the mix screw make any difference? Maybe the circuit is clogged?

[Triesandluth]

I put in the other carb, slightly bigger and new and I cleaned it well also.  Still the same. Except I found since last posting that it will die if left idling long enough too.  Idle goes from too high to barely running and back if allowed,  mix screw is very finicky during the brief solid idle time,  it will die in either position if turned too far, and once dead it takes a few minutes of waiting to start again.  At death I check the plug,  doesn't look soaked,  but if I try to start it immediately after it dies the plug will show wet from trying.  The wire bites with spark immediately upon dying also. 
The cdi has a green light on it.  It doesn't get very bright, while turning over or running.  I've not seen one anywhere else so I'm not sure how bright it should be.  I've thought of changing out the pickup coil in the stator. 
I dunno.  I'm already in the hole with this one so I'm not trying to immediately dump another $100 into it for it to still not run properly.  I wish I could just bolt the Minarelli up to it and call it a day.  I rode the marshin today and feel like it has great potential and now want to keep it too  [emoji31]