Miler125 Electrics: Applying R/R brake lever: Startup & Stop Light will not work

[FKA]

Applying the rear brake lever - Will not enable start up and the rear stop light does not come on.
Applying Front brake lever - The start up enabler & rear stop light 'Work O.K'. 

Have checked the switch at the rear brake lever with a meter and seems to work o.k. when the lever is pulled. 
(Wire colours Blue/Brown and Green/Yellow). 

Hardly any mention of these wires on the circuit diagram in the 'Grand Dink Manual' that I
have and it's difficult to track them as they disappear into the loom. 

Found Blue/Brown wire at the end of loom, it goes into the back of the fuse box. (Fuses all OK)
Only Green/Yellow, Brown and the Green earth go to stop light. 

Any ideas would be appreciated, as I'm not too familiar with the electrical components and their locations. 

[CROSSBOLT]

You started on the right track. Switch tested OK, then it is elsewhere. Check to see if there is a relay and make sure it is still plugged in. The DT 300i has two relays that will interrupt the start sequence. More importantly, the rear brake switch is wired through the switches on the left handlebar to get its power. Let us know what you find.

Karl

[BettinANDlosing]

In my experience, the only thing it could be is the brake switch. You can take the brake lever off and spray cleaner into the little cylinder shaped brake switch and it should work again.

[FKA]

Thanks guys for your prompt and helpful replies. 
Have slightly modified my original enquiry, but the outcome is still the same.

I put the front covers back on (Painful) re-connected the battery, still no go. 
Will remove covers again and make the checks you suggest. 
Thank you so much once again: FKA.     

[CROSSBOLT]

Who makes this Miler 125? Where in this world are you located, FKA? Got some other ideas for ya if this is still a problem.

Karl

[FKA]

Hi Karl - In answer to your questions: -
1) Its a Kymco Miler 125, otherwise known as a Super Dink 125.
2) I'm located in Hullbridge, Essex, UK. 

Still having problems.  And still of the opinion the left hand brake switch is O.K, as I can hear a slight click when I pull the brake leaver. 
And when I put a circuit tester on the right hand brake switch I get the same results, and that ones O.K. 

Have been looking at what I think is a 'Relay' just at the lower end of the cable loom, behind the front cover as you suggested. 
(Kymco Part No: 030728) Other identifying mark on it: - KKC4-9 D106 ?  (Its a black block with 5 wires from a black plug into it at one end only).
I've no idea how to test it. 

Cant seem to find any KYMCO listings of this item number anywhere.  So have given everything a bit of a spray. 
You say you may have a couple of further suggestions I could try, fire away!   
If not, I guess I'll put it all back together again and see if its still the same.

(FKA) Keith

[CROSSBOLT]

Cheers, RFK! When it is really quiet in your garage, listen for the relay to click when you pull the brake levers assuming this is the relay that is controlled by the brake levers. The relay clicks louder than the switches mechanically activated  by the levers. The relays may be tested by unplugging and attacking with your meter. Two of the five connections are to the coil that activate the relay armature. Two to 5 ohms should be normal. Three of the connections are the switching contacts. One is the contact that moves to connect either of the other two. One is NO (normally open) and the other is NC (normally closed). There should be a faint diagram moulded into the case of the relay showing the connection scheme. Most of the relays are in the front except the fat one that actually applies power to the starter and it should be right side to the rear. I suspect it is either one of the front relays or a bad connection to or from them. Do not put the covers back on until you sort this out if you can.

Karl

[FKA]

Hi Karl - Thank You once more. 
That's a pretty comprehensive list of suggestions and will take me a while to work through,
as I will only be able to look at it for a short while today, then I will be otherwise occupied
for a few days. 

By the way, the electrical block I have in my hand, has no diagram on it and I said it had a 'Black' plug,
when it actually has a 'Green' one (Must be my old brain). 
I'll bare in mind your comments when I reconnect it and hunt around for any other relays. 

Thanks again.
Keith.   

[CROSSBOLT]

Take your time, FKA! I have one thing to add to start the sequence of trouble shooting: Put your voltmeter on the rear brake switch before you chase any relays. Turn key on, don't start the engine, don't pull brake lever, one switch wire should show 12 volts to ground the other should show nearly zero. Pull brake lever, BOTH should show 12 volts to ground. Proceed with above if this checks out. Find out WHY, if this test fails before proceeding.

Karl

[FKA]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
My Sincere Thanks, go to both Carter and in particular to Karl, for your input and support in coming up with both
ideas and suggestions to resolve my problem. 

After removing the battery again: -
I took the switch apart, just enough to stop anything flying off and gave it a good spray with a maintenance spray. 
Then set about all the 'push in block connectors'.  Taking each one I could find apart and giving them a spray before
reconnecting them.   

Next I remembered the 'Relay' that Karl mentioned, it was just floating around under the front cover. 
I found that the rubber retaining band had fallen apart, so I set about re-fixing the relay in place, using double sided tape and a cable tie. 
I left this all for around 30 hours to thoroughly dry out. 
Refitted the battery turned the key, pulled the left hand brake lever and the stop light came on and off hesitantly. 

As a result of the above, I checked the 'earth' wire connection on the rear left hand side of scooter frame and noticed the nut would not fully tighten. 
So I snapped off the welded stud, drilled out the remainder.  Cleaned off the painted area and replaced the stud with a nut/bolt and spring washer. 
Re-connected the battery and BINGO!!! 
Stop light worked with a steady strong light and the starter motor fired up like it did when new. 

Thank you both once again, for holding my hand through the trials and tribulations of this investigation.   
(Its great when it all comes together!)  Talking of which, I now have the laborious job of refitting all the body covers. 

F. Keith A.

[CROSSBOLT]

That's great, Keith! Sounds like the biggies were contact and ground. With your feedback you are now the MAN on Milers! I could not figure out who "Carter" was until I checked out B & L; HE's Carter! Anyway, you stuck with it and found and fixed the problem AND told what it took. That feedback sharpens everyone's trouble shooting skills. Have fun riding!

Karl