Author Topic: Performance parts - transmission  (Read 4598 times)

vespbretta

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Re: Performance parts - transmission
« Reply #15 on: June 29, 2015, 05:37:19 PM »
There are atleast 2 prypoints. One is next to the upper left bolthole of the cvt beltcase and the other one is next to the upper right bolthole of the cvt beltcase near the damper. A third one might be used also. It´s on the bottom of the CVT beltcase. This prypoint can be pushed with a long and large skrewdriver and a hammer from the other side of the scooter.
But after all I took the quickest and easiest road... I had no special pry tool, so I just took a pipe-wrench or an open end spanner and put it underneath that upper right pry point near the damper and leanded the wrench/spanner towards the damper mounting and applied some hits with a hammer on the other end of the wrench. Started with light hits, and increased the hit force little by little. And suddenly, I could manage to crack that gasketand beltcover loose without damaging anything. The rest is selfexplaining. -> Cleaning everything inside with a dry brush or airpressure. I would not recommend to work with breakcleaner there, because of the crankshaft and the gear seals.

Paper Gasket unfortunately will be destroyed at the first time because it´s glued on by factory. For what senseless reason ever...
So you will either need a new one, or you might use some silicone to put that back together.

I bought a new gasket and treated it with grease and never seeze. So that it will come off the next time undamaded and easily - hopefully.

And Stig wrote an extremly professional and good tutorial here in this forum for all the works on the CVT. Use it.
« Last Edit: June 29, 2015, 05:41:49 PM by vespbretta »
Cheers,
Robo

Kymco Like LX 200i white/blue 2014; FACO Rear Crash Bars; Kymco Front Crash Bar; Puig Windshield Traffic;  Shido Battery LTX9-BS LION; 13gr. Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces; Throttle control; Full synth. 10W-50 Motor- & Synth Gearoil; modified Topcase; Italian Badges and Stickers

ues61

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Re: Performance parts - transmission
« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2015, 03:58:43 AM »

Get this and some 11g Dr Pulley sliders and you will feel a pretty decent improvement. Stock rollers are 13g. If you only have 6k your clutch is fine, they last over 50k. Like said above, check for oil on the bell and scuff the pads. I would stay away from the HIT clutch, it is not as smooth as stock off the line and REALLY hard to tune it in right, and until you do it feels worse than stock. OEM belts are the way to go, others have tolerances that are crazy, they will come 10mm longer and 2mm skinnier than the OEM belts.


Do you need a Dr Pulley (DP) variator to use the DP sliders?  Or, will the OEM variator suffice -- assuming you get the right size?  Will try 11g, as suggested, and post the feedback.

BettinANDlosing

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Re: Performance parts - transmission
« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2015, 06:38:26 AM »
Get this and some 11g Dr Pulley sliders and you will feel a pretty decent improvement. Stock rollers are 13g. If you only have 6k your clutch is fine, they last over 50k. Like said above, check for oil on the bell and scuff the pads. I would stay away from the HIT clutch, it is not as smooth as stock off the line and REALLY hard to tune it in right, and until you do it feels worse than stock. OEM belts are the way to go, others have tolerances that are crazy, they will come 10mm longer and 2mm skinnier than the OEM belts.


Do you need a Dr Pulley (DP) variator to use the DP sliders?  Or, will the OEM variator suffice -- assuming you get the right size?  Will try 11g, as suggested, and post the feedback.

The dr pulley sliders will work great with stock variator.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

ues61

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Re: Performance parts - transmission
« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2015, 01:37:42 AM »
Thanks to all for their feedback and assistance.

Hope some of this would help future DIYers:
Used a RYOBI P261 Impact Driver - really made the job easier than expected.
Used a set of pry bars from Amazon - search W2020 pry bar

1) I elected to "clean" the clutch and bell, upon inspection - some oil and grime developed, and used a wire brush to lightly clean the inside bell and the clutch material.  The jerkiness at slow speed went away, it now has some smoothness to it when launching gently (eg. in heavy stop and go traffic). 

2) Replaced the stock rollers with 11g Dr Pulley sliders, cleaned out the stock variator and reassembled.  No grease in the cradles, as per some of the advice I read in this and other forums.  Observations: a. it accelerates significantly better than stock, and spends most of its time in the "throaty" section of the RPM band.  b. top speed @ full throttle was reduced to ~55-56 mph, but it is quick to get there, and roll-on power is crisp 30->40, 40->50.  I may tinker with 13g next season.  The acceleration/speed profile with 11g is great for urban streets and the odd 40/55 mph freeways.

In my haste, I took the CVT cover off without noting the routing of the duct, attached to the cover.  Can someone please describe or take a picture of how this is routed, and where does it ultimately end up?  Is it suppose to be some fresh air intake for the CVT components?

Didn't bother replacing the gasket, and torqued the retaining bolts from the center, working towards the outer ones.

beermak

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Re: Performance parts - transmission
« Reply #19 on: July 06, 2015, 02:31:37 AM »
I routed by instinct.. tried to find the easiest way. Its not going to make any difference. Basically needs to get air for the cvt.
My stock where 13.5 and went by recomendation to sliders in 13 gr. Got same top end better take offs. Very happy with the result! Maybe will try 12 just to fool.. but 13's worked very well

LidoCA

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Re: Performance parts - transmission
« Reply #20 on: July 13, 2015, 04:30:34 AM »
 My rollers had flat spots and what seemed to be gouges on them. I installed 14.5 gram sliders. I don't recommend them. It felt like I was starting off in 3rd gear. The bike seemed to cruise better at around 45_50 mph, but it was a chore to get there.
 I bought 13.5 g sliders on Amazon. Much better acceleration. Top end to 60 on straight and level, no wind. Climbing hills is about the same as stock, 13s would probably help out more on that. I may ride up the mountains to test it out. I may try 13s down the road, as a test.  Right now, the bike runs great on city streets. I can keep up with traffic from a stop and comfortably ride the streets at 45-50 mph with throttle to spare.
Steve
I have ridden well over 17 miles on my scooters.

2013 LIKE 200i LX.
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La Mirada, Ca.

ues61

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Re: Performance parts - transmission
« Reply #21 on: August 21, 2015, 09:15:40 PM »

2) Replaced the stock rollers with 11g Dr Pulley sliders, cleaned out the stock variator and reassembled.  No grease in the cradles, as per some of the advice I read in this and other forums.  Observations: a. it accelerates significantly better than stock, and spends most of its time in the "throaty" section of the RPM band.  b. top speed @ full throttle was reduced to ~55-56 mph, but it is quick to get there, and roll-on power is crisp 30->40, 40->50.  I may tinker with 13g next season.  The acceleration/speed profile with 11g is great for urban streets and the odd 40/55 mph freeways.


After > 1 months.  I reverted back to the stock rollers.  It's a matter of preference, really.  But, needed something more on the top speed to keep up with highway traffic.

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