Short video: Changing Clutch springs

[Areomyst]

I made this video tonight showing how I change clutch springs on the Dr. Pulley HiT clutch.  I hope that it might be helpful!



Best!

~Josh

[Areomyst]

Some photos of the tool.




You can see in this last photo that the edge is rounded off at the tip.  This is where I messed up grinding, but next time I will make a small indentation for the spring to rest in.  As-is it works quite well, but will be better when I improve the tips.



~Josh

[LoveMyKymco]

Thats the only way Ive ever been able to change the polini 3k triples. Using an Awl is just awlful.

[wassonii]

Excellent! I had been planning on getting a set of these pliers/tips soon. Even on lesser stiffness springs, the awl is not the best option. Home Depot has them for 21.95, I think.

[chaz35]

I know old post, but...  I use safety wire to loop around one end of the spring to take it off or install.  Put the clutch in a vise to secure, loop safety wire around the end of the spring you want to remove, twist the safety wire a little so the wire will stay on the spring(I use safety wire pliers to twist it a little), use common pliers (vise grips work well) to pull on the loose end of the safety wire, spring will come off easy.  Cheers

[Yager200i]

I just changed out the springs on my 2010 Kymco Yager GT 200i clutch. I used a small hex wrench under the spring, grabbed the short end of the hex wrench with a pair of pliers, and used my other hand to hold the long end of the hex wrench and the clutch itself, then sort of just 'levered' the springs out of their holes. They came off pretty easily, and the new ones went on without much fuss.

[gauth42]

What is the advantage of a stronger spring ,does it make a difference,if so what can of difference??

[Chris0381]

What is the advantage of a stronger spring ,does it make a difference,if so what can of difference??

Gauth I am no expert but after reading, I believe the different clutch springs allow the clutch to grab at different RPMs. Do you want the bike to rev up high and then grab and go or grab right away at low RPM's.

I think the adjustable clutches do something similar .

If you ride in on long straight roads with no stop and go, you may want one type of spring.

If you do a lot of city stop and go you want another type.

If you race you will want one type of spring also. You will most likely want to really rev that bike up then shoot off the starting line.

If you get a stiff spring that causes the bike to rev up a lot before engaging, and you drive stop and go in the city a lot, you will find your self having to keep revving up the bike just to get going.

I am not sure what springs or adjustable clutch setting are ideal for hills or what rpm's the stock springs are.

For popular clutch springs (there are exceptions) I believe
yellow=1000 rpm
blue=1500 rpm
red (racing)=2000 rpm

But this is my interpretation and please anyone correct me if Im wrong.

[BettinANDlosing]

That's correct of the clutch springs, although in this video it's showing how to change the PILLOW springs, on the HIT clutch there is a second action other than centrifugal clutch motion. After the centrifugal clutch engages the "pillow" springs buffer the HIt action. The HIT clutch kind of pivots and wedges the clutch pads against the bell, causing an almost 100% lockup without slip. The pillow springs buffer this action, stiffer means less or later engagement of the HIT action, softer or no springs means the clutch is allowed to "lock" sooner and harder. I actually broke a crank on my 180cc GY6 build a few years ago because the HIT hit too hard, kind of like just dumping your clutch on a manual vehicle. I would not buy an HIT clutch for a daily driver again, it's VERY VERY hard to tune it to grip good AND be smooth. If you tune it for great acceleration then its INSANELY choppy when you take off slow or uphill, and if you try and tune it a little less aggressive it slips too much. Good I would imagine for racing, terrible for the street.

[mrbios]

B&L, thanks for this explanation.  I am getting ready to inspect my clutch springs as my clutch is partially engaged even with the motor off.  When I coasted to a stop the engine was still turning.  Also, with the motor off and my scoot on the center stand the rear wheel is hard to turn like the clutch is still engaged.  This just happened today.  My 2005 GV250 has 19.5K miles and have never changed anything except the drive belt.  All other parts are oem original.

That's correct of the clutch springs, although in this video it's showing how to change the PILLOW springs, on the HIT clutch there is a second action other than centrifugal clutch motion. After the centrifugal clutch engages the "pillow" springs buffer the HIt action. The HIT clutch kind of pivots and wedges the clutch pads against the bell, causing an almost 100% lockup without slip. The pillow springs buffer this action, stiffer means less or later engagement of the HIT action, softer or no springs means the clutch is allowed to "lock" sooner and harder. I actually broke a crank on my 180cc GY6 build a few years ago because the HIT hit too hard, kind of like just dumping your clutch on a manual vehicle. I would not buy an HIT clutch for a daily driver again, it's VERY VERY hard to tune it to grip good AND be smooth. If you tune it for great acceleration then its INSANELY choppy when you take off slow or uphill, and if you try and tune it a little less aggressive it slips too much. Good I would imagine for racing, terrible for the street.