Changing the rear wheel on a Kymco Like 200i - much more complex than expected.
Before you start, make sure you have a good system for laying out your bolts to recall which part of the bike they are from. You'll thank yourself later!
1) Open seat and remove the seat bucket; 2x 10mm bolts near the fuel cap, 2x 10mm bolts at the front of the seat buckets and two screws near the seat hinge.
2) Remove the luggage rack, using the two bolts that attach the rear bracket to the body and the two allen-headed bolts that secure the pillion arm rests to the frame.
3) Remove the four large silver screws; two hold the lower side panel in place on both sides of the bike. They're likely to be stiff and you'll need the right screwdriver!
4) Remove two fairing screws; one from each corner of the rear mudguard where it meets the lower side panel. This isn't necessary, but will make life easier.
5) Remove the lower side panels by moving them forward and back until they unclip. Put them somewhere safe!
6) Where the seat bucket previously was, look inside the fairing. about halfway across the cavity, at the sides, there's two 10mm bolts, one on each side, holding the fairing on. Undo and remove each one carefully, taking care not to break any tabs off the bodywork panels.
7) Remove the spark plug inspection cover, which is located down near the battery, below the seat joint. There's two fairing screws to remove, then it should unclip.
8 ) It should now be possible to gently detach the entire rear plastics from the bike, and lift it off and away. As you lift it, you'll need to disconnect the plugs for the back lights! Plonk the plastics somewhere safe.
9) Let's have a look at the exhaust now. With a 12mm socket, get under the bike and undo the two M12 cap nuts that secure the exhaust to the manifold.
10) The O2 sensor for the exhaust is plugged into the loom by a 2x2 plug that can probably be found just above the fan cover. Unplug it from the loom so that nothing gets pulled unnecessarily.
11) Continuing with the 12mm socket, move around to the exhaust and remove the bolts that secure it to the bracket. There's 2 bolts on the 200cc bike, and 3 on the 125cc bike. Keep them safe.
12) It should now be possible to gently remove the exhaust and take it away from the bike.
13) Now we can remove the rear shock. The lower bolt passes through the exhaust mounting bracket, and can be undone with a M12 socket. The upper bolt is near the fuel tank, and will require a 14mm socket to remove, and some considerable force. The shock should then be released!
14) It's time to loosen the wheel nut and remove it. You need a 24mm socket and a lot of force. I had to use a "breaker bar" and get somebody to hold the back brake locked whilst I applied the needed force to release the nut! Keep the nut and the two spacers behind it safe.
15) Let's release the brake calliper. It's two 12mm bolts on the exhaust mounting bracket, then the calliper can be teased off the rear wheel. I had to use a mallet to gentle persuade it to come away.
17) There's one 8mm bolt that holds the brake hose to the mounting bracket. It's an optional step, but worth removing it for ease of movement.
18) Now, there's two 12mm bolts left holding the mounting bracket in place. They hold the bracket to the engine. Release them and slide the bracket away!
19) There is one small bolt (M10 or M8 head, I can't recall now) that is holding the rear hugger in place, up and left a little from the fan grille. This needs to be removed.
20) Slide the wheel off the shaft, taking care to retrieve the spacer that will slide out with it.
Congratulations, you have removed the wheel! If anybody knows if any of the steps here were unnecessary, I'd welcome your feedback; I've never owned a scooter where it's such a palava to get the wheel off!
NB: I've since been informed by Stig that it's possible to get the rear wheel off without removing the shock, and therefore the bodywork, by moving the wheel carefully between the two shocks from the rear. I'll be trying this next time!
