Clutch went out on as I was getting on the highway...

[mrbios]

Almost 28K miles the belt was spinning unless going down hill otherwise max speed was about 40mph to keep it from slipping.  Took it apart and the thin 38mm nut has come off and taken the threads with it. 

Not sure where to order an OEM replacement as I saw the malossi clutch does not seem to include that part.

[dan v.]

Well, you are going to have to look for a new torque driver, not clutch.  That is the back half.  A quick look on the googler doesn't bring one up, but they must be available OEM, as that 250 motor was used on several models.

If buying new from Kymco, also get new pins, o-rings, spring, as well as the nut.  Maybe you can buy a whole new torque driver.

Finding a socket to fit the nut can also be a challenge.  I have found that some large sockets can be found at the discount tool sellers, but they need to be modified.  As the nut is thin, the chamfers in the socket keep the nut from seating.  Take the socket to a belt sander and spend some time with it to flatten it out until the chamfer is gone.

You can also look up "fork cap nut" sockets for one that may fit.   Good luck.

[mrbios]

That's a good point about the champer on the socket and flattening out a little bit I hadn't thought about that I have a set of jumbo sockets from Harbor Freight and I used the giant 38 mm socket in the setting that seemed to work good in the past.

Where is the best place to get a OEM Kymco Parts these days?

[Stig / Major Tom]

Well, you are going to have to look for a new torque driver, not clutch.  That is the back half.  A quick look on the googler doesn't bring one up, but they must be available OEM, as that 250 motor was used on several models.

If buying new from Kymco, also get new pins, o-rings, spring, as well as the nut.  Maybe you can buy a whole new torque driver.

Finding a socket to fit the nut can also be a challenge.  I have found that some large sockets can be found at the discount tool sellers, but they need to be modified.  As the nut is thin, the chamfers in the socket keep the nut from seating.  Take the socket to a belt sander and spend some time with it to flatten it out until the chamfer is gone.

You can also look up "fork cap nut" sockets for one that may fit.   Good luck.

Guy on youtube uses a big crescent wrench. Remove the clutch assembly - holds the assembly in his hands while tapping the end of the wrench on the sidewalk. Pops it right loose. Heard others swear by this technique as well.

Stig

[mrbios]

Guy on youtube uses a big crescent wrench. Remove the clutch assembly - holds the assembly in his hands while tapping the end of the wrench on the sidewalk. Pops it right loose. Heard others swear by this technique as well.

Stig

No one's answered my question about where to buy oem parts. I have no trouble taking it off I have a 38 mm  socket and an air impact gun which blows it off in the second with no effort I have a custom-made tool for holding both that and the front variator. All I'm looking for is a place to buy OEM Kymco parts

[Stig / Major Tom]

STICKY

GENERAL DISCUSSION
"buy KYMCO parts here"

Stig

[mrbios]

STICKY

GENERAL DISCUSSION
"buy KYMCO parts here"

Stig

Thank you Stig I have heard different things bounced around over the years and just wasn't sure what was good or safe to order from anymore so I'll check out that sticky link thanks

[dan v.]

You piqued my interest in this because I have had issues getting parts for my 06 Bet and Win, and had to find parts listed other ways and with other mfgrs.  Did you know Arctic Cat used Kymco 250 engines in some of their quads?

I digress - you perhaps should jump on this! -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kymco-Transmission-Pulley-Sub-Assy-Xciting-250-06-08-R250i-09-10-2301A-LDB2-E01/183769573250?epid=19003209631&hash=item2ac9852782:g:RL0AAOSwXm9crlt

Here in the US, right price and probably returnable if it doesn't fit - but I am sure it would!

[mrbios]

Update: 09-29-2019 Test results from the welded clutch assembly...

PROBLEM:
I heard some different sounding noises coming from the rear "driven pulley" / clutch assembly.  At speeds above about 60mph I felt a strong vibration coming through the floorboards.  I noticed a drop in top speed of about 7mph?  When I arrived at my destination about 7 miles mostly highway I smelled a slight burning rubber order from the rear drive belt area.  I kept my speed down to ~ 55mph on the way home. 

SOLUTION: I removed the rear clutch assembly and ground down the welds.  I noticed the assembly was visibly crooked (see last of the attached pictures).  I hammered the clutch assembly to visibly straighten it and reassembled - problem solved. Normal top speed & no more vibration / burning smell.  Moral of the story - obviously OEM parts & normal assembly is preferred *IF* said parts are available either new or used on ebay.   However, a large bolt cold be placed through center of the assembly to center it prior to welding or if already welded remove welds and correct the alignment.  As a final step you could use a digital caliper ~$25 harbor freight to measure the edges and adjust to ensure they are parallel.  As as final step you could or should? use washers or the original 38mm stripped nut for proper spacing - as the assembly is designed with the assumption that said 38mm nut is present and is about 4mm? thick.

Dan, thanks for the link to the Arctic Cat.  When I looked online and one of the vendors in the stick link for Kymco the showed the thin 38mm nut was not available.  So for now I just welded it -- see attached. 

The second to last picture - using a mirror to be sure the front face plate is properly installed

[dan v.]

Well, that is one way of dealing with it!  Interesting that last fall, one of the dealers "on the list" said that a replacement carb for my scoot was not longer available.  I see it now listed on their ebay site for sale.  Must have cleaned off the shelves...

I watched " World' fastest Indian" a few times - there is a lesson in there.  If you need to make a repair and parts are not available, think "outside the box".  Let's keep these scoots rollin"!

[mrbios]

Well, that is one way of dealing with it!  Interesting that last fall, one of the dealers "on the list" said that a replacement carb for my scoot was not longer available.  I see it now listed on their ebay site for sale.  Must have cleaned off the shelves...

I watched " World' fastest Indian" a few times - there is a lesson in there.  If you need to make a repair and parts are not available, think "outside the box".  Let's keep these scoots rollin"!

I fully admit it's a hack but I did it because where I'm at is: 2005 so it is old, salvage title from a car rear-ending me at a stop sign.  It has a bmw muffler after I got tired of welding the stock exhaust every time it cracked.... also about 7K miles ago I replaced the head gasket which solved an overheating problem.  So now the 38mm nut holding the rear clutch assembly goes out and the online vendors website show that the nut is NOT available. 

I just wanted to keep it going and replace the bald rear tire before I buy my next ride - probably a motorcycle since used scooters are becoming old and scarce and/or discontinued.  It will be hard to sell the scooter in running condition and impossible if it is not working.  If this weld holds ok I might buy an aftermarket clutch for ~ $100 and grind the welds and replace the worn out stock clutch so the next buyer never need to worry about changing it.

I saw the world's fastest indian - great movie.

[mrbios]

Update: 09-29-2019 Test results from the welded clutch assembly...

PROBLEM:
I heard noises coming from the rear "driven pulley" / clutch assembly.  At speeds above about 60mph I felt a strong vibration coming through the floorboards.  I noticed a drop in top speed of about 7mph?  Seven mostly highway miles later at my destination I smelled a slight burning rubber order from the rear drive belt area.  I kept my speed down to ~ 55mph on the way home. 

SOLUTION: Removed rear clutch assembly, I noticed the assembly was visibly crooked (see last of the attached pictures), so I ground the welds and hammered the clutch assembly to visibly straighten it; reassembled - problem solved.  Normal top speed & no more vibration / burning smell.   Obviously, OEM parts & normal assembly is best *IF* the parts are available either new or used on ebay.   

However, a large bolt with nut and large washer cold be placed through center of the assembly to position it so the parts are parallel prior to welding to ensure correct alignment and you could use a digital caliper ~$25 harbor freight to measure the distance to ensure the parts are are parallel and you could or should? use washers or the original 38mm stripped nut for proper spacing - as the assembly is designed with the assumption that the 4mm thick 38mm wide nut is present.

The second to last picture - using a mirror to be sure the front face plate is properly installed