Author Topic: oil on clutch  (Read 1198 times)

boo

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preacher son
« Reply #15 on: November 01, 2018, 02:28:50 PM »
Take a look at Stigs post in the tech section about the Lisle seal removal tool. He posted a great video on the tool and removal and replacement of a new seal. It is a good video.
Turns a scary job into a simple one.
Home Depot has this tool listed and it is not expensive.
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blue

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #16 on: November 01, 2018, 03:43:25 PM »
Is the hose from the head hanging free over the cover.The over flow hose might be dripping oil in the case.

preacher son

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #17 on: November 02, 2018, 09:00:12 PM »
I will take all this advice, i did get the engine seal in mail today, not sure what the head hose is all about but i will look. Thanks for all info fellers  ;)

boo

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2018, 06:31:47 PM »
I will take all this advice, i did get the engine seal in mail today, not sure what the head hose is all about but i will look. Thanks for all info fellers  ;)

Please let us know how everything shakes out. We learn from each other that way.
Good luck. boo
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preacher son

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2018, 09:02:00 PM »
Will do boo. Im waiting for my gkids next visit to be over during thanksgiving before i work on it, i have it cleaned up enough she can have some fun.      THEN..............it will be time for me to have some fun LOL

vespbretta

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #20 on: November 22, 2018, 05:13:07 PM »
@boo
I don´t understand your 3rd last sentence from page 1. Why would Gear Oil come from the airfilter housing into the variator housing, if the variator housing is or at least should be sealed enough to prevent oil, water, dirt getting in there? In my humble opinion there is no direct connection between airfilter housing and variator housing and there shouldn´t be one - ever. And if a sealing was used correctly, even with some Oil dripping, this shouldn´t be an issue in there.

Or is there anything else I haven´t understood yet.  :-\
« Last Edit: November 22, 2018, 05:15:15 PM by vespbretta »
Cheers,
Robo

Kymco Like LX 200i white/blue 2014; FACO Rear Crash Bars; Kymco Front Crash Bar; Puig Windshield Traffic;  Shido Battery LTX9-BS LION; 13gr. Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces; Throttle control; Full synth. 10W-50 Motor- & Synth Gearoil; modified Topcase; Italian Badges and Stickers

preacher son

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #21 on: November 22, 2018, 06:38:38 PM »
vespbretta i will make an attempt to answer that question, now ya got to understand im an old harley guy and never had one of these critters before so may not get the part names right

    The clutch housing has a large hose that goes from the back of housing around the tranny to other side of atv and up into the breather housing where the air is sucked past a filter for carb.

There is also a hose on front of clutch housing that goes to front of and on top of atv for sucking air thru a filter to the housing. Kinda strange and im guessing this might be a way to keep clutch cool and feed air to carb. Sure a round about way of doing it. Id like to block both hoses off and filter the hole in the carb air box for draw but afraid i might mess it up


vespbretta

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #22 on: November 22, 2018, 08:04:36 PM »
Ah, now I see a bit clearer. Firstly we are talking about an ATV - I must have missed that, and secondly these ATVs obviously do have a totally different breather system than scooters do. Sounds somewhat strange to me, but anyway. I have never seen an ATV in a close up.
Maybe because they are more often ridden and submerged in mud and water and sludge they have this special breathing systems.

Well then, sorry for my statements. Good luck with your analysis and repairs.  8) :)

Cheers,
Robo

Kymco Like LX 200i white/blue 2014; FACO Rear Crash Bars; Kymco Front Crash Bar; Puig Windshield Traffic;  Shido Battery LTX9-BS LION; 13gr. Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces; Throttle control; Full synth. 10W-50 Motor- & Synth Gearoil; modified Topcase; Italian Badges and Stickers

boo

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #23 on: November 23, 2018, 12:08:21 AM »
@boo
I don´t understand your 3rd last sentence from page 1. Why would Gear Oil come from the airfilter housing into the variator housing, if the variator housing is or at least should be sealed enough to prevent oil, water, dirt getting in there? In my humble opinion there is no direct connection between airfilter housing and variator housing and there shouldn´t be one - ever. And if a sealing was used correctly, even with some Oil dripping, this shouldn´t be an issue in there.

Or is there anything else I haven´t understood yet.  :-\

On the 300 GTI, the rear axle housing is vented into the variator housing via a tube. I have mine disconnected because I think it is a dumb idea. The blow-by fumes from the rear axle are vented to the area in and around the air filter. If one puts too much oil in the rear axle housing, it will burp the excess oil into the air filter saturating it with oil which will in turn drip oil into the variator housing.

ps: Oil does not come from the air filter housing. It comes from the rear axle housing to the area of the air filter. That is where the problem comes from. Oil blown in or burped into the air filter. Air filter gets saturated then drips oil in and on variator components.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2018, 12:14:52 AM by boo »
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vespbretta

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #24 on: November 23, 2018, 11:51:55 AM »
Thanks boo. I just tried to find some exploded views of these assembly parts for better understanding. But failed for the GT300i.

Anyway, I understand the most of what you are explaining. If I understood you right, your scooter does have TWO breather hoses. ONe goes directly into the drivetrain to the clutch (which is indeed strange) and the other one into the airfilter housing. Right?
Fortunately my scooter (Like 200i) does have only ONE breather hose coming from the rear axle gearbox and going directly into the airfilter housing.
And that´s most probably right that way and a good thing, because I want this blow by fumes hose opening be protected from water and dirt. The best place to achieve this imho, might be the airfilter housing. Doesn´t it? Don´t want to have water and dirt/sand in my gearbox.
Of course there might be a problem with excess gear oil in there when overfilling the gearbox. Hence overfilling should never be done.  ;)
I always use(d) synth gear oil and never overfill(ed). And therefore never have and had the slightest problems, either with oilfoam , fume or excess oil itself. :-)

So, even if there was an overfilling going on and some oil came into the airfilter housing, it shouldn´t have a harmful effect on the drivetrain. In my case there is no connection from the gearbox to the drivetrain whatsoever.
The oil maybe could only drop down from the airfilter housing to the outside of the drivetrain housing doing no harm, except making a oily mess and dripping further to the ground. And the drivetrain housings should be connected via a rubber or paper gasket, so that no oil, water or dirt can get in there.

But I understand, that different vehicles might have different systems and solutions here, which I dont know yet and never have seen.
Cheers,
Robo

Kymco Like LX 200i white/blue 2014; FACO Rear Crash Bars; Kymco Front Crash Bar; Puig Windshield Traffic;  Shido Battery LTX9-BS LION; 13gr. Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces; Throttle control; Full synth. 10W-50 Motor- & Synth Gearoil; modified Topcase; Italian Badges and Stickers

preacher son

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Re: oil on clutch
« Reply #25 on: August 08, 2019, 09:20:08 PM »
Please let us know how everything shakes out. We learn from each other that way.
Good luck. boo

  Well boo here i am 10 months later and got it done. Its amazing how things get put on the back burner over and over. I did get the atv fixed this week. Replaced crank and trans seals that are located behind the belt. I had to buy a air impact to get the crank nut off but i needed one anyway.

 i also bought a seal remover off ebay for 5.00, very handy little tool. Everything was oiled up again causing belt to slip so i cleaned all parts and replaced seals.

 The struggle was more in finding the parts and finding them at affordable price. One dealer told me it would take a month for parts, i backed out which im glad cause he was wrong on what the seal numbers were. Two seals and a gasket from him was going to be 80.00.

After i pulled the seals i measured and did a search for seals that size and found them. I made my own gasket, both seals and gasket cost me 27.00  ;D  Thats what im takin about  :)

  So my gdaughter's atv is up and running again now im looking at spacing out the rear tires. This thing is so narrow its unstable as far as im concerned. Also the head light black box or what ever it is burned out and lights wont work, im going to rewire them from the battery to a fuse to the lights. To heck with these 100.00 relay things Kymco uses

 I did the same with the starter, went around all that fancy crap and hit the battery it works great.

      Sorry it took so long to get back on the project but here it be  ;)


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