Battery problems

[ScooterWolf]

I purchased a new battery for my DT back in early October. Due to the cold weather it's been dying on me if I haven't started it in a few days. My last attempts have been pretty futile even after putting it on a trickle charger and restoring it to full charge.

The battery is a Chrome Pro YTX12A-BS High Performance Replacement Power Sports Battery. I find it hard to believe that after 3 months of use that the cold weather has really done it in. Anyone have experience with this kind of battery, or is there anything else I should check that could stop my bike from turning over?

If the battery is the cause - despite the name it was pretty cheap, and as they say your get what you pay for - any suggestions for a good cold weather battery?

- Wolf

[Stig / Major Tom]

Some swear by no-name batteries from Amazon, or walmart batteries - I  like YUASA.

Stig

[ScooterWolf]

Thanks Stig. It's on my list now.

Lowell

[wbdvt]

Have you checked the charging system?  Voltage Regulators are usually the culprit as that battery should not have any issues unless it is not getting charging while riding.

[CROSSBOLT]

I, too, love Yuasa, but I'm cheapskate! I have the EXACT same battery in my DT300i and it has been in there going on two years with no problems. You have something that is draining your battery or you got a dud.

[john grinsel]

Many battery problems linked to not riding----after bike is started ride of 5-10 miles should keep battery up.  I use/buy OEM batteries as I hate walking.....remember rubber band drive scooter cannot be bump started!  Fuel injection makes voltage requirements fussy, too.

[scooterfan]

Maybe you should hook the battery to a trickle charger, make sure it’s fully charged, and get a Voltage reading with a multimeter.
Then start the engine, and while the engine is running take a voltage reading at the battery with the Multimeter.
Compared to the initial Voltage reading, you should get a higher Voltage reading while the engine is running. If the voltage reading is the same, or you get a lower voltage during the 2nd test, the problem is somewhere at the charging system.

If the Voltage reading is higher during the 2nd test, you should get a proper load test done on the battery at a battery dealer, or you can do it yourself if you have the right equipment.

If the load test proves that the battery is fine, something might be draining battery power while the scooter is not used.

[ScooterWolf]

Thanks Scooterfan,

I don't have multimeter, but I suspect something is draining the battery. Recently I had a new seat bucket installed, but not the seat. On the first day I opened and closed the seat one of the latches snapped off as it was out of alignment with the locks built into the seat bucket unit.  Likewise, my Met-in light won't come on or off if the seat is opened or not.

I suspect that some how that's draining my battery. My next step is to contact the place that installed my seat. They haven't responded to my past three emails, but now that my battery is dead I'm more motivated.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll post anymore developments.

Wolf

[wbdvt]

Maybe you should hook the battery to a trickle charger, make sure it’s fully charged, and get a Voltage reading with a multimeter.
Then start the engine, and while the engine is running take a voltage reading at the battery with the Multimeter.
Compared to the initial Voltage reading, you should get a higher Voltage reading while the engine is running. If the voltage reading is the same, or you get a lower voltage during the 2nd test, the problem is somewhere at the charging system.

If the Voltage reading is higher during the 2nd test, you should get a proper load test done on the battery at a battery dealer, or you can do it yourself if you have the right equipment.

If the load test proves that the battery is fine, something might be draining battery power while the scooter is not used.

The voltage should be higher with the engine running but not more than say 13.5-14V  if higher, especially if you throttle up to say 3-4k rpm and the voltage shoots up to high voltage, like 17V, you have a regulator problem.

[rdhood]

Immediately, you need to get a 12V accessory socket extension and an accessory socket voltmeter (and usb, if you like, for about $3 more) . Those things are $14 on Amazon (shipped). Snake it out of the enclosed dash area where you can see it while riding.  You simply can't guess at these things.   

Some other posts mention that the voltage reg goes bad on these bikes, and that for the XTown, they moved it to the other side of the bike to keep it from overheating.   So, spend the $14 so that you can keep an eye on your charging circuit , and consider the regulator.  Others have even used a honda voltage reg....


edit:  put one of these where you can see it:    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773BYS6P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[john grinsel]

Those under seat lights are useless period.  Honda easy to remove light bulb, same with Suzuki----however my 2019, XTown 300i----light switching is controlled by light bulb---simple fix is to blank out bulb with black tape.   Dead battery on modern bike can be pain in butt.

[de dee]

like john said remove light,.  voltage while running should be 14.5 volts voltage required to start 12 volts or more,  a light is the worst thing to kill a battery, slow and steady drain,  it warps the plates in the battery, never will it get better after,   best of luck joe Goulet in rockland on.