How dual horns work

[CROSSBOLT]

Found this on wikipedia which adds more credibility than anything I could write!
Horns can be used singly, but are often arranged in pairs to produce an interval consisting of two notes, sounded together; although this doubles the sound volume, the use of two differing frequencies with their beat frequencies and missing fundamental is more perceptible than the use of two horns of identical frequency, particularly in an environment with a high ambient noise level. Typical frequencies of a pair of horns of this design are 500 Hz and 405–420 Hz (approximately B4 and G?4, minor third).
This is the principle of the WOLO and dual electrics. While the WOLO is for practical purposes one horn for installation, it is two air horns on one compressor (vane-type air pump). Each horn at a different frequency or tone thereby doubling its volume according to the paragraph above. Dual electrics do the same thing only the sound generation principle is different.
Either method is a vast improvement over the single squeeker provided! Both require the addition of a relay to handle the extra amperage.

[TBR125]

Thanks for sharing. I have learned that math explains everything. I found horns fascinating after working with music theory and studying, you guessed it, horns. The high tone scoot squeaker definitely needs a bass line accompaniment.

As a baritone, would a viking shout help the horn to penetrate ambient noise?

[stuo]

It's not only the low volume of scooter horns, it's the wimpy meek "eep eep" that does not command respect that make me immediately run a 14 gauge line from the battery to a relay up front and then to dual horns on all my motor bikes.  To my thinking a loud horn is as important as good brakes.

The relay and horns on ebay can be had for less than $20.

[CROSSBOLT]

Yes!

Ebay pretty easy, Stuo? I've got stuff a couple of times but shy away because of some of the horror stories!

[TBR125]

I would absolutely upgrade the horn if it ever needed to be used. I have never had to use the horn once in 20,000 miles though.

[Kansas kymco]

I would absolutely upgrade the horn if it ever needed to be used. I have never had to use the horn once in 20,000 miles though.

You could say the same things about a helmet, gloves,  armored riding gear,  boots or even insurance. But if you ever need those items it's nice to have.

I found out the hard way.

[TBR125]

You are right about that. I have sadly used my jacket, chaps, and especially my helmet. I'm on the second visor.

[CROSSBOLT]

I would absolutely upgrade the horn if it ever needed to be used. I have never had to use the horn once in 20,000 miles though.

Similar to KK comment! Better to have knife (gun, really big gun, grenade, etc.) and not need than to need and not have!

Not so much anymore a horn honker except when either eye contact not esrablished or eye contact establihed and no action! Then it is "weld in place!" Stop 'em with sound! Lots of it!

[stuo]

Karl,

Years ago I had my one and only problem with a scammer on ebay and ebay quickly refunded my money. Sellers don't want a bad rating or they risk getting kicked off the site so they make sure you are satisfied. Ebay is similar to Amazon now in that they jump in if you have a complaint against a seller.

The competition for your $$$ is much greater on ebay then Amazon so the prices are considerably better. Stuff from China obviously takes longer to get here but that's the only (minor) gripe I have.

[stuo]

P.S. Years ago I was run off the road by an 18 wheeler that moved into my lane. He was very apologetic, saying he didn't hear my horn. Now you can understand why I install LOUD horns on all my vehicles, cars included.

[Kansas kymco]

Yes!

Ebay pretty easy, Stuo? I've got stuff a couple of times but shy away because of some of the horror stories!

I would echo Stuo's comments.  I use ebay a lot and only been scamed twice and ebay promptly refunded my money.

In fact just bought a cusrtom  seat cover for my Xicting from Greese. Extremely pleased with the quality of the seat cover.  I plan on ordering several touring windscreens Monday from Greese as well.  My 500's have tall windscreens that I like but the sun has done damage to one of them so I will order a couple. The 250'S have the shorter windscreens that don't divert the wind unless I tuck a little so I will replace them as well.

[TBR125]

I have purchased over 300 items from ebay for radio rigs and vehicle work with only the one flasher relay issue and the seller immediately fixed that problem. I plan purchases well in advance allowing me to buy items for super cheap from china with free 1 week to 2 month shipping. I think many people get used to the 2-3 day shipping used by amazon and the like, and forget such shipping is unheard of in many areas of the world. We ordered by catalog where I grew up.

[TonyinCNY]

HEY STUO - I see you have a couple GV250's.  Any chance you could provide a drawing of the modifications you made and the parts (numbers) you used to double up on the horns?  Sure would be helpful.  Heck, while I'm at it I might as well as you - how the heck do you remove the dash console?  I've got the front end of my GV250 pretty well torn apart including the mirrors and I still can't seem to detach the dash console from the black plastic support.  I was going to just remove the console so I could attach the speedometer cable to the bottom but I'd also like to fix the non-working dash light, too.
Thanks,
TonyinCNY

[stuo]

Tony: The horns and the standard 4-prong automotive relay you can find on ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pair-Red-Super-Loud-Blast-Tone-Grille-Mount-Compact-Car-Horns-12V-335-400/113780042600).

You can either run a (fused) wire from the battery or easier still, tap into the starter relay (heavy red wire connection) on the right side of the chassis. I mounted the relay and horns to the radiator fasteners, using the flexible brackets that come with the horns. It's a tight fit, obviously, but possible. You need to remove the small windscreen bottom cover ( two screws), the windscreen, then the two bolts on top of the front body panel below the windscreen and then the small panel screws along each side of the panel to remove the panel. Pulling gently all around will break the panel loose. Then disconnect the three cable connectors for the headlight and turn sigs, finally freeing the front panel. I rest the panel on a rag on the front fender while disconnecting the light connectors.

One of the wires that was pulled off the stock horn will operate the relay primary, the other side of the relay primary goes to ground. Try one wire , then the other; one will activate the relay, you can hear it click or if the wiring is complete you will sound the horns, the other wire from the switch leave hanging, not used. One connection of the relay secondary goes to both horns wired in parallel, the other relay side is for your wire from the battery. You ground the other two sides of the horns.

I have no idea how to access the console. Like you, I'm waiting to hear from anyone who has done it.