I don't get why the new one did not work but the old one did. Do you have that sensors fault code showing?
Are you sure it is a tMAP, and not a MAF sensor?
Has anyone tested the TPS voltage at idle? at WOT ? It should be near 0.5 volts at idle or just w/ the key on, and the engine off. I don't know the WOT value but the volt meter should show a smooth linear increase in voltage all the way to WOT.
Has anyone done a compression test? I know you said it ran fine again but that is always the first thing you should do.
One trick to verify something... Remove the O2 sensor wire, and hold it in one hand. Now put your other hand directly onto the positive terminal of the battery, and have someone start the bike on the center stand. If it runs fine replace the O2 sensor.
To bench test the sensor you will need a propane torch and a DVOM. The main idea is to connect the red lead of the meter to the black wire of the sensor, and the black lead of the DVOM to the body of the sensor.
Turn on the meter and set it to the lowest voltage scale, light the torch and place the tip of the oxygen sensor in the flame. Since there is no oxygen, the sensor will produce .9v or 9/10th's of a volt within 1 minute. This will indicate a rich mixture because the voltage is climbing. As you pull away from the flame,the voltage must drop within 3 seconds to it's original reading ,the voltage drop indicates a lean mixture.
If there is no reading or if the sensor voltage is not changing, then it indicates a bad or sluggish O2 sensor that needs replacing.
Some O2 sensors have a heating element with more than 1 wire connected. Always connect to the black wire on the sensor to do the bench test.
