what source do you use for the Valve setting?

[Stig / Major Tom]

Always a bit of confusion when it comes to checking my scooter's valve lash.

Both the under-seat sticker on my LIKE200i and the Cyclepedia Service manual agree on these specs:
 .06mm +/- .02mm (i.e. - .04mm > .08mm)
While youtubes are setting the valves at .10mm.


                  =============================

The under-seat sticker on my Piaggio Liberty150i specifies .10mm for the valves, while the Piaggio service manual and the owner's manual specify .08 for the valves.

So, I placed a phone call to PiaggioUSA Hq in NYC - in 2 days the service tech there replied that the under-seat sticker contained the most up-to-date info. "Use that measurement."
So I do.


I note that neither manufacturer specifies a different setting for the exhaust valves.

what do I do with the LIKE?
depends on how I'm feeling that day!
No, actually I like .08mm > .10mm. for the past 10 yrs and 19+K miles.

Stig

[rjs987]

I noted similar results for the AK. Things like what fuel and some other specs are different in YouTube videos and service manuals but then I realized that those specs are for earlier models in Europe and not for the USA versions. Seems it does make a difference after converting for units of measure and even just updated information for minor changes in the engine for the USA. I go by the sticker in the storage box as most up to date than even the owner manual when there is a difference. Even my owner manual, which is supposed to be written for the USA version, calls for 91 octane fuel. But that's MON and not PON... which is 87 octane in the USA (and per the sticker). So the sticker is the most updated information.

[Neil955i]

Just off to go and look under the seat of my new DTX360...


Edit:  Zip under the seat.  Must only be for the USA market?  All I get in the User Manual is:

[Ruffus]

@Stig, maybe see this link...down there

Recomandation  is 0.10mm both, here in Italy I do IN and EX 0.12mm.
0.10 feeler slides easily and 0.15 feeller does not anymore.

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=24057.msg170367#msg170367

[Stig / Major Tom]

Just off to go and look under the seat of my new DTX360...


Edit:  Zip under the seat.  Must only be for the USA market?  All I get in the User Manual is:

Interesting - they've done away with the 600 mile valve check. Or maybe they don't do that on these bigger scoots?

Stig

[Stig / Major Tom]

@Stig, maybe see this link...down there

Recomandation  is 0.10m both, here in Italy I do IN and EX 0.12mm.
0.10 feeler slides easily and 0.15 feeller does not anymore.

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=24057.msg170367#msg170367

Thanks Ruffs,
I remember getting a PM a few years ago - and what was happening is that the rider was getting mixed up by .04mm and .004inches.
Even I was confused for a few minutes until I checked the specs!
Yeah - no they are not the same thing.
I use the .004 - then try the .005 - it must not fit!, or I change.

Stig

[CROSSBOLT]

Sore point from 2009 that Kymco ops and service manuals and stickers don't agree. Cyclepedia was hired on to take care of rhe books' part and that appears to be a bust. Being (begrudeingly) fair, I have no idea what Asian Mystery Management the cyclepedia guy had to cope but it appears all of you/us have done a WAY BETTER job of getting information straight AND supplying it when the question was posted.

It is outrageously inconsistent tho have decades and many 4t models using .004"/.1 mm valve lash and then one or two models have .06+/-.02 mm or essenntially half of what has been Kymco/Honda practice.

Same with fuel requirements. Bikes that go to Asia and Europe are 91 MON. Bikes to the USA are 87 (RON+ MON)/2. That's Research Octane Number and Motor Octane Number. Books and stickers for two parts of the world. A simple management function to rectify.

While we are at it, how about light requirements? Asian and European riders are smart enough to have their lights off for starting but not Americans? Lights are on when key is on and THEY STAY ON while the starting sequence is activated! That is just dumb design. Change a couple of wires and it's relay action that kills the whole lighting system while starting. OR a light wiring scheme like the side stand switch where the OWNER DECIDES if he wants idiot protection on the side stand or not. But how about an up to date wiring diagram that matches the model and geographic scheme?

Just another management activity that seems beyond Kymco USA....see what happens when you bring up valve clearances, Stig?

[Ruffus]

Yep, you can't go very much wrong on HEALTHY modern motors with 0.12 IN and EX.

Older one/twocylinders require mostly 0.15 IN  and 0.20 EX (BMWs, GUZZIs, TRIUMPHs, etc) due to different materials and distancing.

[Neil955i]

Interesting - they've done away with the 600 mile valve check. Or maybe they don't do that on these bigger scoots?

Stig

Never had them done in 10K miles on the X-Town?…

[Stig / Major Tom]

Never had them done in 10K miles on the X-Town?…

I'm no expert....but I get the impression that very few scooter owners ever touch their scooter's valves🙃....and can't recall the last time I read that this ever caused a scooter engine to grenade!
They just get hard, or refuse to - start!
Stig

[NorWeWa]

Most exhaust settings are wider than the intake. But Kymco on the Downtown called for 0.10 mm intake and exhaust, on the sticker on the scooter and per "Cyclepedia" manual.  I set them at an easy 0.10 mm, especially on the exhaust.  With 2 check they seem to have settled in, and measure no changes. 
The engine damage will eventually be to the exhaust valve, and valve seats.

Art   

[Neil955i]

I'm no expert....but I get the impression that very few scooter owners ever touch their scooter's valves🙃....and can't recall the last time I read that this ever caused a scooter engine to grenade!
They just get hard, or refuse to - start!
Stig

Suspect you're right on both counts Stig!

[Ruffus]

Well, with new materials for valvestems and particularely hardened valve seats in modern cylinderheads, all this constructural flaws were minimized.

Use of modern lubrication like high grade synthetic oils add a further security bonus.

All this factors in summary make our "new" engines, be it motor, simple starter motor, CVT, gear or bearings more reliable and maintainance friendly and therefor less expensive to keep.

AND most of us putting not that many km/mls on our toys to wear them out. Years ago, when a motorcycle or certain car was our main transport, back then it seemed to be crucial to keep it in ship-shape. It's done now for passion but not for neccessity.

[Neil955i]

Well, with new materials for valvestems and particularely hardened valve seats in modern cylinderheads, all this constructural flaws were minimized.

Use of modern lubrication like high grade synthetic oils add a further security bonus.

All this factors in summary make our "new" engines, be it motor, simple starter motor, CVT, gear or bearings more reliable and maintainance friendly and therefor less expensive to keep.

AND most of us putting not that many km/mls on our toys to wear them out. Years ago, when a motorcycle or certain car was our main transport, back then it seemed to be crucial to keep it in ship-shape. It's done now for passion but not for neccessity.

Nice and very accurate summary Ruffus!