Sooo...my brake and tail light weren't working.
The manual says to remove the seat bucket, the seat, the rack, the bodywork etc etc. I tried that but you still can't reach the bulb.
I was sure a company like Kymco wouldn't make you go through all that just for a bulb so I took another look today and viola! Theres a wee inspection hatch on the wheel arch under where the pillion would sit. A couple of push pin coonnectors and the cover has a couple of tabs....easy peasy.