Carb Cleaning

[airmanpogodayev]

It's been a while since my last post about draining fuel from the tank.  In finally started on the carb cleaning.

I took the plastic cover of the carbs and was removing the 8 bolts (holding the vacum funels) and I managed to strip 2 of them.  I think I can get them out with that speed screw removal tool.  Where can I get replacement bolts/screws?

It's been over 2 years since the bike ran.  I hope to clean the carbs, trickle charge the old battery and use jumper cables from my car to get it started.    

If it's all good, I'll get a lithium battery and start riding again.

[1980hdsporster]

I noticed that this forum is pretty much dead, I'm no kymco mechanic however I am a Harley tech by trade, I have pulled the carbs off of the ol lady's venox and I do know what screws you are talking about. The best place to go to replace them is going to be a place like fasten all. I have a place by me called Conroe Bolt and fastener, I use stainless steel to replace most hardware as I hate rust.

On another note if you are planning to jump your bike with a car don't turn the car on. The amps that a car alternator puts out can fry the charging system on a motor cycle. Just leave the car off and hook up the battery alone should be plenty to jump your bike. Good luck.

[airmanpogodayev]

Thanks 1980hdsporster for the car not running tip, I forgot about that.

I just bought that "Speed Out Screw Extractor" ($20 at HomeDepot).  This time I read the directions.  I used to have it a few years back and tossed after having absolutely no luck using it.  This time around I read the "Do not use impact driver" part.  The drill on slow speed worked wonders and I had both stripped screws out in under a minute.  They are not badly damaged, I think i can cut down the center with a reciprocating saw and should be able to screw them back in with a flat head screwdriver.

[airmanpogodayev]

So I finally have the carbs completely of the bike. What is the next step?.  The shop manual calls for:

-Vacuum Chamber Disassembly
then
-Air cut-off valve disassembly
then
-Float chamber disassembly

If my concern was old bad gas in the carbs can I go straight to Float Chamber?  or should I take apart the vacuum chamber and air cut-off valve first?

p.s.  Now since I'm here I want to order a jet kit, then do the bore exhaust mod and put on a better air filter. 

[Pebbles]

So I finally have the carbs completely of the bike. What is the next step?.  The shop manual calls for:

-Vacuum Chamber Disassembly
then
-Air cut-off valve disassembly
then
-Float chamber disassembly

If my concern was old bad gas in the carbs can I go straight to Float Chamber?  or should I take apart the vacuum chamber and air cut-off valve first?

p.s.  Now since I'm here I want to order a jet kit, then do the bore exhaust mod and put on a better air filter.

Hey! I just finished cleaning my carbs last week (My idle jets were completely clogged).

Yes you need to remove the Vacccum, then Air, then ze float assembly. This way you can blast all the tiny holes with carb cleaner + pressurized air to make sure ALL the gunk is out.

Regarding the stripped screws, I stripped one screw holding the air cleaner box thingy in place. I made sure to put a dab of antiseize on all the bolts (not the ones inside the carbs lol) during reassembly so I dont go stripping screws the next time around.

[max oradea]

mind the pilot jet, they are different front and rear!

[airmanpogodayev]

Can someone please walk me through balancing the carburetors?  I am going to pick up a vacuum gage today.  Any special kind that i need? or will a $15 from Harbor Freight will due?

[max oradea]

balancing my expertise!!
You will need to buy one that has 2 gauge at least, ive seen those ones with dual valves.... they dont work well.
you will need Y connectors, 2 in total.
connect the vacuum gauge individually to each vacuum port in parallel via the Y connectors.
Set pilot mixture screw on both carbs to stock, then play with the balance screw between the carbs till you get identical readings on both the gauge at the same time.

[max oradea]

If you want make another thread for carb balance and I will write it in detail. but to be honest with you its pretty straight forward. the reason for the Y connector is that the test will be done as if the vacuum system was a closed system as it should be without the vacuum gauge port connected.

[airmanpogodayev]

After putting everything back together, I found this underneath the bike.


Any idea where it goes?

Thanks.

[max oradea]

airbox, should be at a lower location to catch the spit back from the carb and moisture.

[airmanpogodayev]

Any other places? The one on the air box is still there. I pulled it off for comparison. The airbox one is on the right.

image upload no size limit

[airmanpogodayev]

I think I found it on http://www.kymcopartsmonster.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=KYM#/Kymco_USA/RA50AA_Venox_250/Carburetor/2K01110005/

16210   16210-KED9-900   DRAIN TUBE ASSY CARB

On the schematic it looks like its sits underneath the carbs towards the back.  I'm looking at my bike and with all the cables and tubes I cant see any opening that this would plug.

[max oradea]

If i remember correctly there is one around the air filter extension side of the airbox and one right under the airbox body. that tube is not of heat resistant material so it should connect to a non-metal surface.
yes just double checked the part on the right is from this page http://www.kymcopartsmonster.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=KYM#/Kymco_USA/RA50AA_Venox_250/Air_Cleaner/2K01110005/01110067
The one on the left is really connected under the main air box body, you kind of have to remover the airbox to secure it back on, i would not start the bike until that hole is plugged buddy.

[max oradea]

How did it go?? I remember the air box on the venox is not the easiest to slide out of the frame.
but the idle mixture screws are easy to get to, now my shadow C2 single carb needs to take off the carb when ever i wanted to adjust the idle mixture screw. So in all its 1h to adjust even the slightest 1/8 turn, taking everything off the bike and putting it back together.