Author Topic: Setting the Valve lash to 0.0"...  (Read 1624 times)

zombie

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Setting the Valve lash to 0.0"...
« on: July 18, 2014, 07:36:05 PM »
I just posted this as a response to another thread but thought it worth posting on it's own.
Copy/pasted

I have from day one set the lash to "0.0" on a HOT engine. When you check that cold the readings are all over the place, and never the same on any engine. One valve will read .003" the other .001. A different engine might read ..002", and .005".
I also have a peeve for ticking valves, and the only way I could ever solve it was "0.0" hot. Just set the adjuster to touch the stem, and lock it down. What this whole deal proves out is these are simple , roughly built engines, and the "spec" is a safety margin, and nothing more.

Try it yourself. The bike most likely will have never run better.
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de dee

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Re: Setting the Valve lash to 0.0"...
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2014, 07:56:46 PM »
would that be good for a 300i downtown,. r is that only good for 50 cc.s, 

zombie

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Re: Setting the Valve lash to 0.0"...
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2014, 08:06:57 PM »
While I would HATE to adversely affect your machine... There is no valid reason it would not work. All these engines have the same clearance, and if done exactly right (just touching while hot) the gaps will open up cold, and can be measured.

These are NOT blueprinted engines. They are rough cut, and assembled on a FAST line. Two or three of these have read the same cold out of 20-30 engines I have done in the past 3-4 years but neither of them read 0.004". I have to add None of them left here ticking or ever came back w/ a valve/cylinder problem.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2014, 08:09:24 PM by zombie »
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

Stig / Major Tom

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Re: Setting the Valve lash to 0.0"...
« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2014, 11:49:07 PM »
While I would HATE to adversely affect your machine... There is no valid reason it would not work. All these engines have the same clearance, and if done exactly right (just touching while hot) the gaps will open up cold, and can be measured.

These are NOT blueprinted engines. They are rough cut, and assembled on a FAST line. Two or three of these have read the same cold out of 20-30 engines I have done in the past 3-4 years but neither of them read 0.004". I have to add None of them left here ticking or ever came back w/ a valve/cylinder problem.
Some of us are reassured by the gentle ticking of the valves in out scoots and VWs. Perhaps a few million.
Unwarranted fear of valve ticking noise may be a new category in the DSM (Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders) :)
While there are experienced mechanics who expound some of your valve ideas -  there are rather more who would advise  folks to follow their factory service manuals, and adjust their valve gaps to spec , on over-night cold engines.
There is room in this forum for novel ideas (like many of yours, Zombie) ... but there must also be space (and an atmosphere) to voice established mechanical practices.
Stig
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BettinANDlosing

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Re: Setting the Valve lash to 0.0"...
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2014, 02:28:08 AM »
My only thought on this is how to control exactly how warm the bike is when doing valves. Sure if you have a bike with minimal plastics it's easy to ride, take off the valve cover and adjust. But if you have a bike where it takes serious time to get the valve cover off the bike may well have cooled down a substantial amount. Also I would want just a little safety room on the lash for extended wot runs when the motor gets much hotter for a short time. I did mention I HATE taping valves, major pet peeve on my bikes.
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de dee

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Re: Setting the Valve lash to 0.0"...
« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2014, 04:27:23 AM »
I was thinking I would set it hot and leave it over night and check it in the morning,. and if it is agreeable ,.enjoy !

BettinANDlosing

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Re: Setting the Valve lash to 0.0"...
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2014, 04:28:19 AM »
Good idea, worth a try for sure
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

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