P 250 Stalling in the rain

[zombie]

All that I have found are 1 piece with the cap being replaceable. These ahter market coils use silicone jacketing which is far superior to the oem vinyl jacket, and 1/2 the price. What I meant was you have bought the first one w/ the scoot, and to go buy another expecting better would be buying an inferior part twice.

[TechGuy]

How can you tell that the after market one will work with my scoot? The coil doesn't seem that it would be so different for different sized bikes.

[Shaka]

The coils are fairly universal.  They all just take a signal from the cdi and fire the spark.  The cdi is what regulates when it fires.  As long as it sparks when the cdi tells it to, it will work.  It doesn't matter if the engine is a 50cc or a 250cc, 2 stroke or 4, as long as the coil fires when the cdi tells it too!  That is why they are "universal".

[zombie]

Heres a link that will take you to one of the coils that will work for you. If this is indeed where your problem is.     N-MP-01224 Racing Coil Electrical upgrade for scooters karts

[TechGuy]

Well, I finally had a minute to get back on the scooter since the sun was out this weekend. I found the bike, once warm, doesn't want to idle at all. It runs smooth and will not idle at all. It's tough to keep the revs up at stop signs on a CVT scooter!

I didn't get a chance to do any troubleshooting due to time constraints. I am going to replace the spark plug (it was due to be replaced) and consider picking up a coil.

Based on my readings, the coil in most scoots can simply be replaced with a "performance coil" for scooters of the same engine size? Does someone here have any experience with this. I read that if you are racing, the coil is one of the first parts to be upgraded.

[Shaka]

It sounds like the choke was keeping it running when you first started it.  When the choke turned off it was getting too much air and wanting to die.  You may just need to adjust the idle and air/fuel mix screws.  Start by setting both screws out from all the way in 2 turns.  The adjust the idle (big screw in the center),  turn it clockwise until the engine speeds up enough to idle without the rear wheel turning.  Then adjust the mix (typically smaller screw offset to front), until the 0-1/4 throttle snap is nice and responsive.

[TechGuy]

I have ridden over 12,000 km in the last year with no other adjustments.  I  don't think it's having any "adjustment" issues.  I rode it from an elevation of 30 feet to over 8,250 feet  in a 3 hour period and it had zero issues.

I was just hoping to use a locally provided performance ignition coil instead of waiting for the "factory" one.

[zombie]

The utube link to Martian is the correct one. Some coils are fired from a collapsing field, which means they are constantly energized, and will fire when Pos voltage is removed. Some fire when Neg. is removed, and some fire when pos is applied. Yours I believe is fired when the neg is removed. The coil Martian Racing has is a little more costly than an ebay counterpart but with a little research you can find one on ebay, or local to you. Either way you will have a smoother running peppier scoot with that 1 small mod. I believe shaka is correct on the idle mix adjustment. A tiny bit of debris can lodge in the idle circuit changing the setting. Sometimes turning the mix screw all the way inn (count the turns) and going back to the exact setting is enough to dis-lodge a particle. A dirty air box will also alter the setting. There is no harm in adjusting the screw a few 1/4 turns in either direction to see if you get your idle back. New plugs are always good too. Keep us posted!

[TechGuy]

I changed the plug and it now idles.  The cap wire insulation is cracked at the boot so I am going to replace at least the wire and maybe the coil too. I will let you all knw how it all work out.  the plug was the right color but the ends was a little pitted.

[Shaka]

Most of the ignition coils don't have a replaceable wire.  You will have to get the whole unit.  You can pick up a "performance" coil for less than an oem one.

[zombie]

The pitting is generaly caused by pre detonation. Hi test fuel will cure that. If you are using hi test already you may want to go 1 step colder on the spark plug. That would be 1 number higher. It will cool the cylinder 20 or so degrees. Just enough to keep the fuel charge from exploding. keep us posted...

[wordslinger]

The pitting is generaly caused by pre detonation. Hi test fuel will cure that. If you are using hi test already you may want to go 1 step colder on the spark plug. That would be 1 number higher. It will cool the cylinder 20 or so degrees. Just enough to keep the fuel charge from exploding. keep us posted...

..yeah, i went to a C8 from a C7 per zombie's reccomendation...

..made a big difference in my A50...