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mrbios apparently found a faulty stop switch, repaired it and life was good. My kymco dealer (who i no longer trust) confirmed i needed a new stop switch so i replaced both front and rear switches. My problem is NOT solved and is intermittent making it even harder to diagnose and solve.
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Suggestions anyone??
Mind boggling - replacing the kill switch? The reason it could not be the kill switch is if the ks fails you will not be able to ground the CDI and stop the engine while it is running except by putting the kick stand down or turning the key off but a failed kill switch won't prevent the scooter from starting (unless it is stuck in the off position but that was not the problem in your case).
You need to either replace ($22) your brake light switch OR take it apart and clean it - the dead give away is that it starts after pumping the break that is because there is corrosion in the brake light switch. Remember, when you press the brake lever the BRAKE LIGHT MUST COME ON! If it does not (assuming the brake light bulb is not burned out) THEN the brake light switch is NOT working.
As a shortcut:
1. Press the RIGHT brake lever - does the rear brake light come on? If so the starter should start. If no brake light ... [I could not do this on my atv because it only has ONE brake lever on the left that controls both front and rear brakes!]
2. You can disconnect the two spade connections that go to the switch (either one) and connect them together which will make your brake light come on and stay on. If that fixes it then work on or replace the switch.
The reason the switch fails is that the contacts are normally open or separated and ONLY close when you press the brake lever - which is when you hear the click. Being apart all the time makes it easy for moisture to settle on the contact surface and corrode. Even where I live - we get almost no rain 3/4 of the year and i drive my scoot almost everyday the problem still happens.
This problem affects many brands of motorcycles / scooters which use the same basic design. My 2007 Chinese Fuxin Brand 110cc ATV had the exact same problem but because it was in very bad shape from years of sitting the brake light cable was broken off so and bulb fried from too much voltage (18.3v and high rpm) I bypassed the switch by hooking the two wires that connect to the switch together and the starter worked. Then I cleaned and grease it problem solved. It only cost $2 but it was quicker to clean and grease it.
I recommend replacing the switch and injecting some dielectric grease in the new switch to prevent it from corroding. The problem is Kymco uses a cheap switch and NO contact grease so it corrodes over time whether the scoot is driven or not.
Remember the switch serves two important purposes related to safety:
1. When it forces you to hold the brake when pressing the strater (remember our scoots are always "in gear")
2. It turns on the brake light so people know you are slowing down.
When it breaks it won't let you start the engine & also lets you know when you tap the left brake lever the brake light is NOT working so cars don't know you are slowing down (unless you press the right brake lever.