Author Topic: Cooling down the „hotspur” rectifier/ regulator with heatpipe cooler  (Read 658 times)

balkoger

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Development and upgrade for longer trouble-free operation
Almost all scooter have the rectifier position problem, because the aerodynamic plastic shape around the bike cover everything.
Use led light, change the old light bulbs with low consuption bulbs, lower electric usage, but the designed generator will quickly take extra energy and the rectifier converts it to heat.
Well I don’t measure, but last summer in a hot day I have to do something right after long ride (most in the city not a highway) I have to take out the luggage box and the rectifier burned my hand.
I’m sure that was over 70 celsius (158 F) and the bike frame around the rectifier also hot, so that’s why they fail soon.
Who working with computer on a last decades know that, the heatpipe very good solution to transfer the hot surface further without any extra energy and obtains as many heat dissipating surfaces as possible.
Around me I found heatpipes and coolers and think about the position without touch or modifying the original rectifier, that’s why I mount the heatpipe contact area where the rectifier mounted to the frame. I had to save space but I found plenty of area, so someone think about better position with longer or turned heatpipes can be possible.
Sorry for picture positions I don’t want to take out the plastic cover so I’m working all the way from the back, also the pictures does not show how many hours drilling, tapping, countersinking drilling, and spacer making before application.
As I said, the cooler, heatpipe and special heatpipe clamp (what I’m using for contact surface) already available, just put together this concept like LEGO with small modification.
I don't have heat measurement right now, I can add later sorry.

« Last Edit: May 07, 2020, 05:14:57 AM by balkoger »
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CROSSBOLT

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Wow! You did all this with the covers in place? Neat project!

Yes, the R/R is the "shorting" type where the stator is working at 100% and to maintain voltage the excess is turned into heat at the regulator. There is a better rect/reg available called a "series" type that unloads the stator to what is actually demanded. Bit more expensive but works better.

But your idea is very elegant and no doubt will work like a charm!
Karl

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wbdvt

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Very nice!  Thanks for posting
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rdhood

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Very cool.  It seems like another solution to this problem would be to supply an external load that would turn surplus amperage to heat in an area where it could be cooled properly. Something like a relay enabled switchable power resistor/ heat sink.
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CROSSBOLT

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Very cool.  It seems like another solution to this problem would be to supply an external load that would turn surplus amperage to heat in an area where it could be cooled properly. Something like a relay enabled switchable power resistor/ heat sink.
This design is a problem. Not your suggestion but A. Uncontrolled rotor (field) and B. Shorting type regulator. The stator is loaded at 100% or nearly so and that never changes since the regulator shorts energy to ground to control voltage. The "fix" is either a series regulator or a controllable rotor. Series regulator is simpler and lasts longer.
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

Stig / Major Tom

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My wife'll tell you - I really enjoy space ship stories...…

WTH you guys talking about?!
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And, I'm feeling a little peculiar.

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