Instruments Not working But Mobile phone red light, Battery light ect ON

[ptingib]

Hi thanks for the advice and letting me know about the second ground point.  I will continue to work on the bike as i need it fixing and have it in pieces at the moment.  Due to its age etc its not worth sending it to a mechanic and the labor charges alone will be more than the value.   I am surprised that this issue of the mobile phone and battery light and empty fuel light with non of the dials working has not been covered before and is shown on the Internet.    Im sure this must be a very common problem or maybe that most bikes never reach over 10 years old with 55,000 km.   i will try to buy the silicone dielectric grease tomorrow.   I take it that once i have it i should desperate every connection and plud and apply the grease to the connections.  is that correct??

[CROSSBOLT]

You have it right! Restate for clarity, unplug EVERY connector on the bike regardless of system, goober (apply liberal amount) of the grease to the female sections of every contact in the connector. That will ensure the male prongs are coated when reconnected.

It is a common problem in older machines. It just surfaces as a cry to help fix one problem at a time. This silicone dielectric grease idea was something I saw while working on a mid-1999 Ford chassis motorhome system:every connector was smeared with this stuff! I have used this stuff on every Kymco I ever owned thinking it was a good preventive measure.

[ptingib]

Hi all,  I went to my local auto store and there was a dielectric spray that cleans and protects electrical points.   I bought this as it the only thing available and i went through all the connections, cables and cable ends and used the spray on these parts.  Unfortunately it did not make any difference to the situation.  I've googled the issue and it seems to be a fairly common issue however have not found a workable solution.  On other posts they have advised to change the fuses (which I have done even though they are OK)  they also seem to think it something to do with the positive wire that somehow has come loose or disconnected. Im a little confused as there is only one positive lead that runs to the positive end of the battery and or seems to be ok.   

Please any more thought or solution's  o this very irritating problem, as Im rapidly running out of possible solutions and need the bike for the first week in JULY.  Many thanks as always for any help or wisdom you may share will me.

[CROSSBOLT]

Then I suspect it is a wire to terminal lug interruption. The connection at the crimp. Yeah! I'm serious! Every one....

[BigBlue505]

I'm starting to think you need a new speedometer assembly.  Maybe something's gone haywire within the panel.  You live in a very hot climate, and that may have an effect on electronic devices.  My LCD odometer and clock are shot after 10 years and 15,000 miles in the desert.

[ptingib]

Hi with regard to your quote "Then I suspect it is a wire to terminal lug interruption. The connection at the crimp. Yeah! I'm serious! Every one...."  honestly i dont know what you mean,  could you translate to a basic level,   ive never heard of "connection at the crimp" and im not sure what "wire to the terminal lug interruption".   
We do obviously have very hot summers and today its 34 and its just the beginning of June.     Also i live in a very humid little town in the middle of national park surrounded by large hills so in the winter it can drop to zero (centigrade or even below freezing point).
We also have here what we call in england sleeping policemen or road bumps, some are very extreme and can be a huge impact to the scooter.  I do take the at a higher speed than what i do in the car because for the longer ones I can actually use it as sort of ramp and its fun to get some "air".  (please dont think I use my scooter as an xgames freestyle bike)  the worse however are the smallest road bumps which are an instant hard impact.  I also pick up the children from school if only one goes in for that day and thus can park right outside the door and can scoot home without joining the huge queue of parents picking up their children.  Im 90kg and the children are around 30/40 kg now that they are young teens, sorry its been 30 years since we switched from imperial "pounds" and now are metric especially as we live in Spain.   
Our roads are as smooth as glass i have locked my front wheels many times and so i back brake as much as i can as ive ended up in the barriers and off the road many times as grip is practically non existent. we get so little rain (over 310 days of sunshine) that the roads are completely different to the ones in the United Kingdom.
Due to work commitment Ive not had much time to continue with the resurrection of the kymco however i will dedicate as much time as i can this weekend.
Please please continue with the advice its so appreciated and as this is the only english speaking Kymco forum its become my only source of information.  Many thanks to everyone for thier continued support.

[CROSSBOLT]

What I was referring is each terminal metal fitting at the end of each wire. The metal fitting is bent around the wire and insulation in what is called a "crimp." That junction can corrode out of sight and interrupt that circuit. Common in older machines/high mileage (high "kilometerage?") and can be very difficult to find. I agree with BigBlue505 that it may be the instrument cluster but the wire/terminal lug corrosion is more common. Replacing the fitting is easier IF the fitting can be duplicated. The recommended approach is to parallel a separate wire with the suspect wire to see if the symptom goes away. Most people would just junk the whole bike or rewire it or replace the whole harness rather than actually work to find out what the cause is. My bet is that you will work to fix it.

[BigBlue505]

Yep, it's much cheaper to check the battery and all the wiring before you buy any expensive parts.  I live in a very dry climate, so I usually don't have much corrosion or wiring harness problems.  That meter costs about $193 US.  If that's your only problem with the scooter and you get good power to your lights and all, I'll bet it's the meter.  Can you make the trip without the speedometer or do you have to get the scooter inspected before the trip?  A GPS speedometer app might be a solution.

[ptingib]

hi all im not got much further except i hooked up the battery again and although it says 12.9 when recharging when its connected to the bike and has fired up its only 7 or 8 volts on a cheap multi-meter.  ive also have not managed to get the last piece of white plastic off.  all the screws are off and i almost dismantled the rear lignt but the white fairing covering the regulator rectifier will not come off.

im getting very disheartened as i need the scoot for a trip next week but thats not going to happen.  im starting to really hate my beloved scooter.

[xsel777]

So, not the regulator then? Or the alternator? That is quite a drop in voltage. Maybe the battery has had it.
If you take it to a battery place, they will put a load on it, and can tell you if the battery is healthy or not.

Sent from my Mi Max using Tapatalk

[xsel777]

When the bike is running the voltage should go up to a low/mid 13, as far as I know. Regulators are cheap enough on ebay.

Sent from my Mi Max using Tapatalk

[RURC]

Was thee ever any conclusion to this. I am having the same issue with my Xciting 500.

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=30825.0

[CROSSBOLT]

Was thee ever any conclusion to this. I am having the same issue with my Xciting 500.

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=30825.0

You may want to start a new thread on this since this one is over two years old!