Author Topic: Help with 2010 2t carburetor Solved  (Read 869 times)

Abner_Bjorn

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Help with 2010 2t carburetor Solved
« on: August 03, 2022, 05:18:28 PM »
Good morning Kymco fans!  I'm looking for some help on a 2t carburetor.  See the picture, do all carbs have the o-ring / seat on the air fuel screw? (just to the left of the arrow)   Secondly, the scooter runs great once you get it started  It is a bear to start.  You have to kick start it twenty times to get it to fire up.    I have heavy fuel running out of the intake side of the carb.  I know the petcock is working fine. Fuel line is unhooked from the carb at the moment, and nothing is coming out of it.  I believe the float needle valve is working correctly.  With carb off, I blow air through the fuel intake, and the flow will shut off when the carb is parallel.  All the jets are clean, the carb looks good.  There is no seat or o-ring on the air/fuel screw.   I'm looking for guidance.  Thank you in advance.  Update:  I thought I would pass this along for future readers.  Carb was pissing fuel out of the backside.  Ended up being warped reeds.  Hard to find a Kymco replacement you say.  Get the reeds for a Kawasaki KX60.  I had to oblong the holes a little bit.  $13.00 off Ebay. 

« Last Edit: August 16, 2022, 01:37:11 AM by Abner_Bjorn »
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Iahawk

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Re: Help with 2010 2t carburetor
« Reply #1 on: August 03, 2022, 10:21:00 PM »
yes, you should have a small washer and rubber o ring on the air / fuel mixture screw. Sometimes when you disassemble they stay inside and are hard to see.

As far as hard starting, a usual suspect is the auto bystarter. The needle is retracted at start up, allowing more fuel in and as the scoot heats up the needle extends, cutting off this additional flow of fuel. Have you checked to see if yours is operating correctly?
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