Okay, I'll try this again:
Things needed:
One can of Brake Cleaner
One Allen socket, not sure of size but it's easy to figure out with an allen set
Impact Driver, I used a 3/8 drive pneumatic but you could possibly use cordless drill with socket adapter
(1) 21/64" or "R" drill bit
(1) 1/8" NPT tap with some type of driver for it
(2) 1/8" NPT plugs, shallow on top(9/16" deep well socket to tighten it by hand)
1 quart of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF available at auto stores, possibly walmart. I used Transynd ATF for allison transmissions.
Or, 10wt fork oil available at motorcycle stores...but you'll payyy and the synthetic ATF works great!
1 drain pail for oil
Some good rags
Work bench
Support front of scooter. I used straps up to the rafters in my garage and ratcheted them up.
Pull fenders, front wheel and brake caliper
Pull forks off by removing two bolts/upper and lower on each fork. Remove both forks.
Pull out allen bolt on each fork leg but expect oil...put forks over drain pail and lightly pump fork leg
DON'T LOSE the brass washer under each allen bolt
Pull apart fork separating upper and lower but expect more oil. Get all the oil out.
Pull off rubber caps on top, drill and tap out holes in center of each cap.
When tapping put forks on bench lengthwise while tapping so you don't get more plastic then necessary down in fork leg.
Don't tap too far down so the plug tightens up well and seals the hole.
Once the tapping is complete clean well with brake fluid and look thru fork to make sure everything is clean.
Re-install you allen bolts with your impact driver. If you do it by hand the shaft of the shock will turn and not tighten up. If you do it quickly it will cinch down the bolt really well.
Add about 80cc of oil then pump the leg, add the rest of the oil, give it a few pumps and seal it up.
I used a 9/16" deep well socket and tightened the plug by hand. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN..it's plastic. NO LEAKS!
Re-install in reverse order.
All bolts including axle, brake caliper, 2 cinch bolts, upper and lower fork bolts 29-35 N-M
Front feels better than it ever has since 2006. I'm actually glad I had the stress crack and was forced to change the oil. I'll probably never change again thanks to the synthetic oil. But, you can change out the seals and the fork tube shimms if needed. To get my old seals and fork shimm I had to cut my old fork up by the top so I could hammer out the shimm and get the fork seal out without damaging them. You would need a long special tool to do this if you needed to and couldn't cut your fork tube in half.
Also, if you can find a way to safely extract the top cap without ruining it please let other know. The snap ring is smaller than the smallest pick I have and I really don't think these things from the factory are designed to take apart...crazy!
Let me know if I can help further.
