Nut size.

[sissy mary]

Yes Hoolander, this is the belt I had put on when it snapped the first time. So this is the second time the bush/sleeve froze up inside of the outter pulley half. This is why I am going with the Melossi. The second time it happened I did not have 1,000 miles on it before it stuck again. It has to be a design flaw? >:(And yes, the new Melossi comes with everything including a new clutch spring.

[zombie]

>:(And yes, the new Melossi comes with everything including a new clutch spring.
SWEEEEET!

[Hoolander2]

I wouldn't try holding the var with a long screwdriver.  Remember Axy tried that and broke fins off and wound up getting a holding tool anyway.  I'm sure others have done the same.  Only hope of that is if the last mechanic put it back really loose and I wouldn't  count on that.    The wood block I mentioned was for wedging the holding tool against.  That is I figure you could use wood instead of the angle iron I use. 

As for the clutch, I don't see getting it off without a holding tool or impact wrench.  Once you get it off, then you need either another special tool (clutch compressor) or some really big C clamps and some nerve and time to get the clutch off the driven pulley.  Getting the outer nut off gets the bell off and lets you take off the clutch/driven pulley as a unit.  Do you know yet if you MUST replace the clutch torque spring?  Or the clutch springs themselves?  To do either you have to take clutch completely off. 

If the torque spring is replaced with a stronger or longer spring, then your rpms will go up for some or all of the speed range. That is unless the malossi var is geared to compensate which it may be, I don't know.  Also a longer/stronger torque spring will put more stress/tension on the belt and variator -- again, unless the var is engineered to compensate.  It may be that a malossi belt is actually longer than stock which would compensate.  That could also explain why some people have had malossi belts break -- that is they may have used the belt without the variator install.  Lots of things to think about.    But don't let that stop you Sissy!  We'll help get you through this!

Just to inspect the clutch you only need take off the outermost nut, spacer, and bell.  Now that I think about it, you might not even need to do that.  Might could just shine a flashlight through the slots in the bell.

[sissy mary]

I watched both times when the new belt-& rollers were put in so I know what everything looks like. I need to get both off (var & clutch) to get the new belt on, and the guy that did the install in Ill used a huge impact wrench. So I may just bite the bullet and take it to a dealer. The var tool is about $42.00 & the clutch tool is way over $100.! So I may go that route. I wanted to save $, but this may be the way to go? I do want them to put everything back together with my impact wrench, so I can inspect everything yearly. I may get the var holder first so I can make sure the splines are ok, but then again, why buy it if it will not work on the malossi var? I sure wish I knew what was going on with the stock var as it would be cheaper to do a stock replacement! But I don't want to worry about it freezing up again in the middle of no where. This has been a real pain in the butt.  

[sissy mary]

Oh by the way. When I looked at the parts pictures & part numbers. It says that the seal (on-in the var), is an oil seal. Someone had said it was a dust seal? All other var's come with grease. So it must have come from the factory with grease in it? Where the grease go's and why it is dry now no one knows? The dealers have no idea as they know nothing about nothing? The d-bag's at Kymco USA are worthless. They will not answer questions, let you talk to a tech person, NOTHING. They don't even return calls. Buy their product's and F-off I guess? I would like to stay stock, but when you read this happening to people at 15,000 miles, it's scary. I may try to call Malossi USA and pick their brains?

[zombie]

I think I posted this before... The "o" ring is a dust seal. It prevents belt dust from interfering with the drive boss SELF lubing process. The drive boss is a VERY special piece. It is made from silica bronze. The inner sleeve in the var is made of tempered bronze. The two interact to self lube. The grease is supplied to begin the auto lube process. If you install the parts DRY galling occurs, and LOCKS THE VAR. Grease should NEVER be used after the var has "broken in". The "O" ring prevents the primer grease from escaping, and stops intrusion later.
SPI has the BEST price on the var in the US. 10% off for forum members too.
Sissy you can do the work w/ a strap wrench, and your impact. Bite the bullet,and try. If you fail... close it up, and road trip to the dealer. With the info here you may know more than them anyway.
Psss... When applying the grease use a TINY bit, and wipe it off w/ your fingers. That is ALL it needs.(inside, and outside of the boss ONLY)

[sissy mary]

That's good to know. I bought a breaker bar, 19 & 27mm impact sockets, and I found a large strap wrench at auto zone fro about $16.00! It included 2 wrenches. One for small stuff like oil filters, and a large one for big spin on water filters and such. If this does not work, then I will be forced to buy the var holder, or have the dealer do it. I hope I can get the var off so I can inspect the splines and such. If all is good, then I can take the clutch to a dealer and have them put the new spring in. I am going to call Malossi USA monday and pick their brain on their var. What is the best grease to use?

[zombie]

Malossi includes a small packet. I use Ford specific wheel bearing grease (you can get it at NAPA). It is Hi Temp, and doesn't melt away.

[iker]

hi, i've used a impact wrench many times on clutch and varitors. take off nuts with lowest setting ie 1. if they dont come then use next highest setting . install nuts with same setting you used to take nuts off. no problem i've done it hundreds of times in my 25 years of bike wrenching. see yea,ike

[Peters]

"Take it to the dealer"!!!

No way man! Use you hands and feet. You hold the variator with your feet to get that nut off. All you need is a vice to hold the clutch nut and a strap wrench to get the clutch apart. Once you get it loose spin it the rest of the way off while keeping pressure on the top(Pulley). The spring will pop the two halves apart. Just keep pressure so it doesn't fly across the shop. Use your feet to put it back together. Both feet on both sides of the pulley push down until you can screw the nut on by hand. Assemble in a vise the same way it came apart.

[sissy mary]

Thanks everyone. I wiil try to do all of this myself. If I get the Malossi, I hope their spring is not to strong to use the (both feet) approach. Or I can get 2 large clamps to do it I guess. It sure would be nice to have the bucks to take it to a dealer and have it done. New Malosi var, new Malossi clutch or Dr Pulley Hit clutch, new kevlar belt! Would be nice.

[sissy mary]

Thanks Munks and everyone. I tried to get the var off today, but the guy in Ill put it on with a huge impack wrench and I was not able to budge it with mine! I tried it with a socket and breaker bar, but the strap wrench was near the point of breaking and had to call it quits. I even tried to wedge in an open end wrench between the var and the clutch, but the var nut is on so tight I was afraid that I was going to crack the housing of the var and or clutch. I think I might put the bike on the trailer, take it to my mechanic, have him zip them off with his impack wrench, and then put everything back together again myself with my wrench. Well thats all for now.

[zombie]

Thanks everyone. I wiil try to do all of this myself. If I get the Malossi, I hope their spring is not to strong to use the (both feet) approach. Or I can get 2 large clamps to do it I guess. It sure would be nice to have the bucks to take it to a dealer and have it done. New Malosi var, new Malossi clutch or Dr Pulley Hit clutch, new kevlar belt! Would be nice.

About a grand too... $1,000.00. So much for CHEAP transport