repair manuas

[zombie]

A standard multi meter is all you need. The post from Munks has all the info for the wiring. The service manual has the values to look for. The fact that spark shows up for a split second when you stop cranking could be a low voltage situation. You will want to run the cdi wiring straight to the coil, stator, and pulser coil. Clip the red/white wire coming from the cdi. That is your Ign. kill. (this may be faulty at the switch). You can then run the scoot to see if it performs correctly. Then start returning to the factory harness one component at a time until it fails. Pain in the but the first time but I have fixed a few of them this way. Ps The pulser has to be read w/ the scoot off. You are testing for a resistance to ground on the blue/yellow wire. Test in several ranges if the Manual is not specific on the setting to use. The coil will show either open (no circuit) or shorted to Gnd. if bad. My money is on wiring tho as the symptoms have appeared before on MANY Asian scoots

[Kevin]

Thanks Munks and Zombie. Great info there!

I eventually found a wiring diagram of just the ignition circuits and was able to verify continuity to the CDI from the ignition coil, pulser coil, and verified the ignition switch (key) and kill switch are all working properly. I have not verified the regulator yet, but I did a couple months ago and it was good. I'll still check it again since you never know when a problem will come up.

Ignition coil is reading good resistance across primary and secondary with and without cap.

I am getting an open reading on the blue/yellow from the pulser to ground. wonder if I found the culprit. Need to get back home and see how much of a PITA it is to get to for replacement. I don't have access to airtools or any specialty tools anymore.

Thanks guys!
--Kevin

[zombie]

The only tough part is removing the flywheel. Harbor freight has a good gear/pulley puller for about 20 bucks. You will have to get a few(2) bolts that fit into the fan threads to accommodate the puller. The puller will tighten against the crank shaft, and at that point give the puller shaft a firm wack with a hammer. It will "pop" the flywheel right off. The pulser coil is also sold as part of the stator. You can get a much better price for one on Ebay.  one more tip is when removing/replacing the flywheel nut I remove the spark plug, and thread about 1' of rope into the cylinder. This keeps the crank from turning.

[Kevin]

Just wanted to put some closure on my issue. There are always so many dead end threads that I look at trying to find an answer only to find people with the same problem and no solution. 

It was the stator/pickup. It was reading open, so I took it t the shop.

Had the Kymco dealer swap it out. They even checked to see if the warranty was still good, but I missed it by a few months. In any case, all is well, and she's running like a dream!

Thanks!
--Kevin

[zombie]

Thanks Kevin... I usually suggest just that.