Right, I downloaded a free manual from one of those links. Think I had to download a unzip program first called frog or something like that.
Valves are .004 inch for both intakes and exausts. I think that's .1 mm too.
Search for my topic on my valve adjustment. It talks about what all is necessary. Pain in the you know what first time around. Easier thereafter.
No particular special tools but I did have to get a 9mm box end wrench and grind it thin to get onto the lock nuts. Also could've used kymco special valve adjusting tool but made something out of ball point pen parts that worked half-ass ok.
Lots of plastic to take off. Accents on the sides of the floorboard, side skirts, floorboard itself, seat, underseat compartment. Coil, thermostat need to be loosened and moved. Must have some means of pulling down the whole back end of the scooter to get the engine in the right position so the valve cover comes up and out. Need good to great lighting and hands/wrists like a monkey when adjusting.
Turn engine over by the varitor nut while watching for the "T" mark on the flywheel to line up with the line on the case. (there are other marks on flywheel -- make sure with flashlight and magnifying glass you've got the "T") Dimples on cams must be straight up when T mark lines up or else go another 360 degrees around.
Since mine didn't have flywheel nut access hole like manual shows -- I had to sight into the timing mark hole while arm wrapped over scooter turning wrench on variator nut.
Turn variator nut Counterclockwise!
Valve cover bolts are relatively weak as I found out when I broke one! Don't over tighten.
