Alarm install

[skishades]

Ok, first things first... I have no idea what I am doing... just figuring it out as I go.  I have been using a how to guide from http://www.instructables.com/id/Installing-a-SPY-5000-two-way-motorcycle-alarm-int/?ALLSTEPS for the Spy 5000m alarm which I purchased from aliexpress.com. 

The install is rather easy.  I used the start switch in front of the bike and all my wires were accessible from that point.  I included a picture.  I could access the wires for the turn signals on the right side (of the pic, left side of the bike) and the start switch on the left (right side of bike).  I chose to cut the wires and put terminals on both ends so I could always reconnect if the alarm needed to be removed for whatever reason.  I also cut the wires after the wiring harness just in case I ever need to remove the start switch. 

The alarm sort of works as it comes but there are modifications to be made to make the kill engine feature work.  The how to is in the guide.  I can testify the alarm will beep and make a lot of noise if set off but I was unable to get it to kill the engine or use the remote start feature because I haven't made the necessary modifications yet.

Does anyone have experience with alarms?  I am installing one because I will actually be putting things into the box on the back while at work and this alarm has a key fob to tell me when it is going off... and I can disarm the horn and rely on the key fob.

I am posting this just as an FYI for where to find the wires you need... Note, the remote start wire is not run to the front.  The alarm is meant for a motorcycle and has a lot of features but it is technical and the instructions focused on how to operate the alarm with the remote... the install instructions were just a wiring diagram of the alarm, not the bike.

[Vivo]

Yes, that's a 2-way alarm. Your remote has both a transmitter and a receiver. You just have to test how far your transmitter works, otherwise, it will defeat it's 2-way purpose. Straight line of sight distance is different from with obstacles. As for the remote start, I would not really recommend it for safety reasons. The remote start/stop is actually for very cold countries wherein one can let the engine run once in a while while the owner is inside the house. SPY is a good brand. Our company imports SPY alarms and other stuff.

[skishades]

The work around to get the remote start to work is very complicated and it isn't something I see my self using... though I always use the stand so it is something I could use if I took the time.  The one I am working on atm is the kill engine.  I need resistors and other parts from radio shack to turn the positive signal from the alarm into a ground for the CDI to kill the engine... not sure how long that will take me to figure out buts it all installs up front in that easy to access space so it can be put off till later.  I am following the instructions from that website to the letter and don't have a real understanding of what some of the parts are for... for example what would have happened if he had only used 1 resistor instead of 3... its all from a physics class on electricity I took 17 years ago.

[Vivo]

I need resistors and other parts from radio shack to turn the positive signal from the alarm into a ground for the CDI to kill the engine




Doesn't it have a jumper inside to turn positive trigger to negative trigger? Some alarms have those.

[skishades]

I have no idea what a jumper is but my understanding of this alarm is it has a closed circuit in its brain box that kills the engine by opening it... breaking the black and white wire from the ignition does not kill the engine, it prevents the key switch from killing the engine... The key switch when turned to off, grounds the CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) which drains the capacitor in the CDI.  If I follow the alarm install instructions, the only thing the kill engine function would do is prevent the engine from being shut off if the alarm were activated... its rather dangerous.  The workaround is to provide power to the "pink" and "grey" wires of the alarm system (which were originally intended to break the black/white wire from the starter switch), when the alarm activates, it's circuit break will activate a transistor which will switch to a ground if no power is being provided... It uses a diode (allows for one way electrical flow) and some resistors (to mimic the resistance of the coil)... If you don't use the diode you can blow your fuses on your bike since it will double the load on the line if it's not flowing one way.  I don't know why you need to match the resistance of the coil... I think it's so power won't just flow to the transistor but I am hoping somebody can explain that to me...

[skishades]

I already discovered Radio Shack doesn't carry the parts I need so I will be ordering them online...  What is the best way to test the resistance to the coil?  The Honda bike had 87 ohm resistance but that doesn't mean the coil on the Super8 is the same.  Does anyone happen to know the resistance of the starting coil?

[bdrannik]

Does the Super-8  shut off the engine if the side stand is down?  When installing the alarm on my Downtown 300 the way I enabled the "engine kill" was to wire the alarm into the side stand circuit making the bike think that the stand was down and it would shut off the engine.  I did not want to cut any wires for the ignition or fuel injection...

[skishades]

I don't recall seeing any wires going to the side stand... I don't think it does

[skishades]

finally got the kill engine to work.  The black wire from the alarm connects to the Black and White (B/W) from the starter switch (the original directions say to connect it to ground wire which is green).  Pink wire from the alarm connects to the transistor with the resistors (after the resistors), the Resistors connect to the Red wire on the scooter from the starter switch and the other side to the transistor with that pink wire.  The grey wire from the alarm connects to the ground, on the opposite side of the transistor from the Pink wire.  The middle leg of the transistor connects to the diode, which connects to the Red wire from the starter switch as well.

I used 32k 0.5 watt resistors from Radio Shack (I used 2 32k resistors to make up the 64k ohm resistance).  The Darlington transistor BD681 and the Diode I purchased from a web site.

When all is said and done, the alarm now does not allow the engine to run.  It will start even though the alarm is activated but it idles very poorly and the moment you apply gas, it dies.  The scooter is not running anywhere if the alarm is activated (and it runs perfectly if the alarm is off).  I'm sure I could get it to prevent the engine from starting if I increased the resistance or decreased the resistance... but I am not playing around with it any more.  This was the first time I ever soldered electrical together and as far as I am concerned, its good enough.  The horn on that thing... ouch!! that alone is going to make someone put the scooter back down.

The second part of the install modification to allow remote start isn't something I am tackling at this time.  If someone can make sense of the directions from that website and attempts it, let me know as I might try to make it work... someday.