Modded '07 People S 50 4t need help!!!

[Juxpitos]

well as said it is currently under the care of a moped mechanic, he will find the problem and fix it.

[Juxpitos]

well i feel stupid, the rear clutch pulley is restricted, thought it's not the reason my bike dies out. Is there a way without buying a new one to de-restrict the stock one?

[Juxpitos]

 http://www.4secondsflat.com/plug_chart.html the chart i use with plug chops, The Image attached is my plug, i think it's between a 19 and 22, what do you think?

[streido]

You want to cut off the threaded part of the plug and get a good look down at the bottom of the insulator. You want to have a nice ring of brown/tan at the base. The top part is not telling you richness or leaness just how hot it detonates.

Thats why is called Plug Chops i guess, cos you need to chop the plug. I had a good guide somewhere, if i find it i'll post it up later.

You can buy a new Torque drive part only instead of a complete rear pulley to remove the restriction, i take it the restriction is on the moving face?

[Juxpitos]

correct on the restriction being on the moving face.

[streido]

Try something like this http://www.racingplanetusa.com/torque-driver-naraku-sport-torque-converter-secondary-slider-naraku-sport-p-6702-1.html

Or just buy new or 2nd hand stock one but without the restriction. Think its just newer ones have them.

You may even be able to grind off the raised part or even better put it in a lathe if you have access to one or know someone who works in a machine shop?

[Juxpitos]

My question about that is  the back plate to that has a recession in it and it looks/feels like it would fit, plus i tried the draw a strait line from the center to the edge of the pulley (front and back) The line made on both was removed completely. as i am lead to understand that means it won't go faster than the 40 i can get it going, but there is nothing for the belt to rub on inside the case and i don't think that that would cause the sudden jerking/loss of power that i am experiencing, though i could be wrong.

[streido]

That ridge is def a restriction on them. Was just using that link as an idea of what to buy, dont even know if it fits your model. I do know many rear pulleys are interchangable between models tho, my Agility 50 has a rear pulley from another Kymco (cant remember which one it came out of now).

Not sure about the jumpy/jerky feeling your getting tho, could be the belt sticking in the rear pulley maybe? Or torque drive sticking? When did you last dis-assemble it and clean and re-grease the torque drive?

[Juxpitos]

My thing is it never gave me a problem like that until i put the BBK on it and now i don't even get to the same speed before it starts cutting out/jerking. Either way i think i am going to buy http://www.partsforscooters.com/169-162-4T-Conversion-Kit_2?sc=11&category=735 and swap everything out though i need a new rocker assembly as mine is for 69mm Valve and the kit is for 64mm short valve and try as i might i can't find a rocker arm assembly or rocker arms for that matter that are for a 64mm valve, any site i am over looking that you know of? as i would love to use the performance head. as it sits i believe i have the stock 50cc head on mine as the rocker arms and valves didn't line up right, damn 5mm!

[zombie]

Try something like this http://www.racingplanetusa.com/torque-driver-naraku-sport-torque-converter-secondary-slider-naraku-sport-p-6702-1.html

Or just buy new or 2nd hand stock one but without the restriction. Think its just newer ones have them.

You may even be able to grind off the raised part or even better put it in a lathe if you have access to one or know someone who works in a machine shop?

You can't cut the hump out. Its just stamped sheet metal. There is no thickness behind it. Sorry...

[zombie]

You are better off using the OEM head. It has a smaller combustion chamber, and makes higher compression. I have done the same thing. Your issue is in the carb/jetting. There is ONE remote possiability... The valve timing may be one tooth out. Double check for true TDC, and see where the cam lines up. Also double check the tensioner. If it is weak or stuck it will allow the timing to float by one link in either direction.