Tried to remove CVT belt cover, wouldnt budge!

[exhalent99]

So I was all set to do a video of cleaning out the belt case...

Camera : check
Recording : check
Remove body panel over air filter : check
Remove air filter case first : check
Remove all the hex screws for the belt case : check
Take off the cover : che....wait it wont move, yank it still nadda

Now in my business (computer repair) we have a general rule, dont friggen force it.

I feel like the seal is keeping it stuck shut, so I'm hesitant to force it and damage a seal that I don't have a replacement for.

Has anyone here done this and just forced it open?  Is it going to be ok?

On a side note Im nearly at 1000 miles and want to know if I should put full synthetic scooter engine oil in soon...

Thanks guys!

[Coachz]

your videos rock.  shouldnt you be able to use normal oil for the life if the Like.  Whats the advantage of  synthetic in a Like ?  I'm ready to check my valves thanks to you !!

[Stig / Major Tom]

Lost count of how many videos I've seen with passing mention of stuck cvt cover. rubber mallet, find pry-points on edges and gently pry with screwdriver,-tap with one of those plastic shot-filled mallets all around edges, etc.
Yep, very common problem for first removal. One guy painted some DW40 on edges, waited and then hit it. I would be concerned that the stuff would get on the belt.
Several folks say do not use gasket when you put it back on....will have to look at parts picture to see if LIKE's even have a gasket on the cover. Yep, there's a gasket on there.   Surely don't need one for a seal....there are holes in the cover!
Darn, now I have to do the same........

So, hope that helps - you're not doing anything wrong....just another little scooter-joy to live with.

[exhalent99]

Lost count of how many videos I've seen with passing mention of stuck cvt cover. rubber mallet, find pry-points on edges and gently pry with screwdriver,-tap with one of those plastic shot-filled mallets all around edges, etc.
Yep, very common problem for first removal. One guy painted some DW40 on edges, waited and then hit it. I would be concerned that the stuff would get on the belt.
Several folks say do not use gasket when you put it back on....will have to look at parts picture to see if LIKE's even have a gasket on the cover. Yep, there's a gasket on there.   Surely don't need one for a seal....there are holes in the cover!
Darn, now I have to do the same........

So, hope that helps - you're not doing anything wrong....just another little scooter-joy to live with.

Thanks!  Yeah I could see the gasket at one of the curves.  I bet its there for vibration...I say that because my trunk was rattling like crazy yesterday so I opened it to inspect the screws and the rubber seal that runs around the top piece had popped out of place. I put it back and it was fine (will need to glue that)

I'm sure (now) that even if the gasket for the belt cover was damaged/missing it wouldn't be a big deal if every screw was nice and tight.

I'll take another look this evening after work!

[Dolemite]

I took mine off a few months ago to clean out dust. There is a paper gasket that tears apart when you remove it. There is also ANOTHER body piece you need to remove to get it off. In addition to removing the bottom of the cowl over the air filter, you will need to remove the bottom side runner (under the foot well) that covers the rear passenger foot peg. If you don't you risk cracking it (like I did) when you try to slip the cvt cover past it.

I think I got a pry bar and wen't around to good pry points and eventually the paper gasket gave way and it came off. But man it's on there pretty good.

Good luck and keep the videos coming.

[MotoRandy123]

On those TV shows they pre disassemble things to make it look easy. The first time those
covers are always tight. A rubber mallet usually does the trick!

On going to synthetic, you usually want to wait until breakin is over. How can you tell?
Usually the motor smooths out and there is a gas mileage increase. If you do it too early
it just takes longer to breakin so there's no harm. Your rings seat in 1000 - 2000 miles but
the top end can take 6000. I once used slick 50 in my new truck at 2000 miles and it took
40000 miles to break in. I felt it smooth out and the mileage increased...

[Stig / Major Tom]

Ok, ....we are talking 9 bolts here aren't we?
I'm assuming there are 9 bolts and some Chinese magic glue holding that CVT cover on, eh?
Here's an exploded view of that area for our scooter - I count nine bolts.....and you have 9 bolts in your cereal bowl, right?
BECAUSE we do not want to go banging on the cover if there are only 8 bolts in your bowl.....with one hidden bolt still on there.
I saw a fellow using a putty knife and a mallet on the seams, very carefully. Talked to some mechanics at work today, they showed me an assortment of 'dead blow' hammers....made of plastic or hard nylon, sand filled. lead shot filled, commonly used on engine parts which have been unbolted but remain stuck together.
Seems like every scooter owner goes through this. Wonderful......

[Coachz]

i like the putty knife idea.  also a block of wood and hit that with a hammer to dampen the blow

so what does synthetic oil do for a like 200i and at what mileage to start

[Vivo]

Motor oils have 2 components:  The base oil.. these are Group I and II (mineral), Group III (hydrocracked mineral which they also call as "synthetic"), Group IV (PAO - the true synthetic) and Group V (other synthetic) ... the other component are the oil additives they mix with these base oils like detergents, friction modifiers, viscosity modifiers, anti-wear additives, anti-foam agents, seal conditioners, to name some.   One of the main characteristic of synthetic based oil is it has a longer life than mineral oil... for me, it doesnt matter because I still need to change oil regularly because of the dirt suspended in there.  Diesel oils (Rotella, Delo, Rimula) are good because they have higher detergent content compared to other oils... I use a Scooter specific oil because it has friction modifier additives and is a low friction oil.   I'm more concerned about the additives in the oil rather than the base oil...

However, these scooter specific oils with the JASO MB rating are not compatible with other scooters that uses a multi-plate clutch (like the Piaggo BV350) instead of the usual centrifugal type clutch... Using an oil with friction modifiers will make multi-plate clutches slip...