GrandVista Aftermarket Brake pads...

[mrbios]

Has anyone ever replaced the rear brake pads on a Kymco Grandvista 250?  I have been looking online but none of the pictures match the picture I took of my worn-out rear brake pads?

[Stig / Major Tom]

Does it look like this?


Avail. here:
http://www.motorsportmonster.com/p/Scooter-Parts#/Kymco_USA/SC10AS_Grandvista_250/Rear_Wheel/2K01220005/01220033
Stig

[MaryK]

I've tried to find EBC brake pads..  it wasn't easy.

EBC pads:
Front:  FA197  I found them on Amazon for $28   note says to not re-use old shims  I presume the FA197HH would also fit.
 http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-FA197-Non-Asbestos-Organic/dp/B006B281LG#
Rear:  SFA356  Amazon for $20.
http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-SFA356-Standard-Scooter/dp/B006O764CG

I think the photos are not necessarily the same as the real parts. 

I haven't bought any yet but plan to.  Let us know what you buy and if you like better than original.

Scoot Safely,

[Urbestfriend]

It's probably unlikely that Kymco makes every individual part themselves.  You could be getting the part you're actually looking for.   I have two Kymcos,  so I always crosscheck models to see if the same parts are interchangeable.  Recently I ordered a GV Belt, Rollers, etc. and it appears that part numbers listed said, "Call for Price".  This indicated that they assigned part numbers to that model bike and are now
realizing that part is in fact the same as one used on another model.  This means they may have the same part listed under several different part numbers,  so consolidation is certainly needed.  Don't get me wrong.  Kymco parts lists are not easy to understand. I needed a silver front cowl and the parts list just listed undecipherable codes.  I actually sent pictures and e-mails to assure I'd get the silver one.  I got a Black Cowl.  I don't believe this internet vendor is still in business. 

[windwheeler]

Yes, I have replaced on two GrandVistas (mine and my friends) and we got aftermarket ones actually on e-Bay.  But you have to watch it, they do list often incorrect ones (longer ones). 

If you know what you are looking for (kinda rectangular-square pads) then that are the right ones.  If you order KYMCO OEM you will get the correct ones, no matter what it shows...

[mrbios]

I've tried to find EBC brake pads..  it wasn't easy.

EBC pads:
Front:  FA197  I found them on Amazon for $28   note says to not re-use old shims  I presume the FA197HH would also fit.
 http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-FA197-Non-Asbestos-Organic/dp/B006B281LG#
Rear:  SFA356  Amazon for $20.
http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-SFA356-Standard-Scooter/dp/B006O764CG

I think the photos are not necessarily the same as the real parts. 

I haven't bought any yet but plan to.  Let us know what you buy and if you like better than original.

Scoot Safely,

I ended up buying the oem from my local dealer which sells them for 50% above list price.  So the rear pads were almost $50 with tax.  I didn't want to order online and wait and possibly get the wrong parts and these new pads should last 15K miles.  The reason they wore out at 12K is that I was told the left lever uses both the front and rear brake but it is only the rear.  Now I use both levers together to distribute wear better.

Basically $50 for 15K miles is worth it. 

TIP: Do not remove the two Allen bolts on the rear caliper - that will separate it and you will loose brake fluid and get air in the line.  Consider plugging the heads of the two Allen bolts with epoxy (there is no reason to open the caliper except to rebuild it).  I have never seen a split caliper held together with bolts.  Also, if you leak fluid onto the new pads you will ruin them.  I then had to waste time bleeding out the air in the rear brake line. 

[Stig / Major Tom]

I ended up buying the oem from my local dealer which sells them for 50% above list price.  So the rear pads were almost $50 with tax.  I didn't want to order online and wait and possibly get the wrong parts and these new pads should last 15K miles.  The reason they wore out at 12K is that I was told the left lever uses both the front and rear brake but it is only the rear.  Now I use both levers together to distribute wear better.

Basically $50 for 15K miles is worth it. 

TIP: Do not remove the two Allen bolts on the rear caliper - that will separate it and you will loose brake fluid and get air in the line.  Consider plugging the heads of the two Allen bolts with epoxy (there is no reason to open the caliper except to rebuild it).  I have never seen a split caliper held together with bolts.  Also, if you leak fluid onto the new pads you will ruin them.  I then had to waste time bleeding out the air in the rear brake line. 

50% above list from the dealer! Crazy, but they have bills to pay, too.
And you're right - $50 for 15,000 miles is fine.
Most of the OEM Kymco 'consumable' parts seem reasonably priced - and are not the parts I would be looking for the lowest bid on! Get the good stuff, then relax and ride your scooter!
Stig

[mrbios]

The main problem right now is my carb is clogged and hesitates coming off idle.  I cleaned the jets but I could not get it 100%

[windwheeler]

mrbios:  get yourself a quality fuel injector/carburetor additive cleaner (about $6-8 per bottle) and put 3x as much calculated on the suggested quantity of fuel in your tank.  I have cleared jets like this on motorcycles.  It may take 100-200-300 miles to be completely clear.

PS:  if you can't ride the scooter right now (cold or bad weather) put it in a not full tank (estimate by the fuel gauge how much is in the tank and add carbureator cleaner quantity accordingly as I suggested) , shake the scooter back and forth sideways, and run the engine on the center stand stationary for about 5-10 minutes to get it in the entire system.  You can restart the scooter again another day and run it again stationary. That will help help to soften all gunk and remove it eventually.

[MaryK]

SeaFoam is one of the original high quality fuel system cleaners.  And it also stabilizes the gasoline for storage.
That makes it a good one for winter use.

We also recommend Berrymans B12 and Techron.  If the eventual use of one doesn't solve your probme, then try the next.

The B12 seems to be the strongest and the cheapest.  Techron is different from the other two cleaners.

Scoot safely,

[mrbios]

mrbios:  get yourself a quality fuel injector/carburetor additive cleaner (about $6-8 per bottle) and put 3x as much cto turning the throttle about a quarter of an inchalculated on the suggested quantity of fuel in your tank....

I tried heavy doses like you suggested a fuel injection cleaner and it didn't help.  I cleaned out and spray the Jets and that improve things but its still not right.  The hesitation happens from just above idle to turning the throttle about a quarter of an inchafter that the main jet seems to kick in and there's no more hesitation.

[windwheeler]

Seems typically your pilot circuit or jet is clogged.  It is the small jet in front of the main jet, long, with multiple holes when you unscrew it.

[mrbios]

Seems typically your pilot circuit or jet is clogged.  It is the small jet in front of the main jet, long, with multiple holes when you unscrew it.

I went in there twice and they are both perfectly clean.  I sprayed them with carb cleaner ran a thin wire through all the holes and blew them out of compressed air there spotless.  basically the hesitation happens coming off of idol up to about a quarter of an inch of throttle twist beyond that things kick in and everything is fine.

[windwheeler]

There is still something wrong with your "Pilot jet circuit".  That's exactly the indication for it what you describe. 

Air screw, the seat where the pilot screw is seated in, did you make sure the top hole on the pilot jet is open...? it has to be something to do with this circuit, and it is "small", so you overlook it...

[mrbios]

There is still ....b is "small", so you overlook it...

I'll look into this next time I go in there and take pictures.  I also have an aftermarket CF250 Keihin carburetor that I just need to figure out how to attach the TPS - throttle position sensor.