engine oil drain screw?

[espresso]

hi guys, going to change oil but which one is the drain screw? is it the black one or the one beside it? and also what size is it..17mm?Going to change the oil filter as well, would like to know the size for that as well.. I misplace my manual so you guys are the only guys I have

[Philly]

17mm for the oil drain plug and 24mm for the oil filter. The black one beside the oil drain plug is your oil filter screen. Hope this helps.

Here is a video I found on youtube (Spanish) but it shows you how.

[espresso]

thanks philly, that's awesome!!!

[Philly]

You're very welcome. And here's the oil filter.

[Joe7911]

I Have 2012 DT 300i and on mine the big black nut is the oil drain and with needle nose pliers you can pull the oil screen same location, The oil filter is other side of the bike.
Careful with "O" rings they get nicked easy. Torque on oil bolt should be 14-21LB.
On the transmission bolts the filler and drain torque is 5-8LB also the aluminum watcher on drain plug is supposed to get replaced but I get about 3 uses each on mine. The long as you don't over tighten.

[CROSSBOLT]

Joe, I hope I read your post correctly, but the oil drain is the rearward 17 mm hex head that is cad-plated steel and the forward black plastic 17 mm hex head is the oil screen. You may be able to drain the oil by removing the screen but I will bet it will drain faster from the rear hole.

Karl

[de-dee]

yes karl ,. I always re move both plugs and blow clean the screen, and change the filter every oil change,.  and I change the oil hot!!!!it drains fast and any thing floating in the oil does not have time to settle ,.

[Joe7911]

ACTUALLY I DRAIN THE OIL HOT AS WELL BUT I REMOVE THE BIG PLUG, THE OIL SCREEN AND THEN THE FILTER ON THE OTHER SIDE. BY OPENING BOTH SIDES IT ALSO DRAINS FAST AND GETS ANY METAL FILLINGS OUT.
AS FOR THE OIL IN THE ENGINE AND THE TRANSMISSION I USE 100% SYNTHETIC OIL AND A NEW FILTER EVERY TIME ON ALL MY BIKES, I ALSO CHANGE THE SPARK PLUG WITH AN IRIDIUM PLUG WITH EVERY OIL CHANGE. I WAN'T MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE AND MINIMIZE BREAKDOWN AS MUCH LESS ENGINE WEAR.
MOST OF THIS SCOOTERS ARE ONE CYLINDER AND SOME BIG ONES 2 CYLINDER SO I CAN'T AFFORD SPARK PLUG FAILURE FOR $7.00 ITEM PLUS GET BETTER PERFORMANCE.

[Porkie]

With all respect Joe, you are wasting time and money with your excessive sparkplug replacements. Unleaded fuel keeps plugs clean (really clean) in a car nowadays for in excess of 100,000 miles, plus or minus. Scooter and motorcycle engines are no different if in good shape.

I'm on my 76th scoot/ motorcycle and I haven't had a sparkplug fail in any of them. Even on my 2 stroke, track and desert competition bikes it was a very rare occurrence.

Years ago, the bike/ scoot mfg's wanted to replace the sparkplugs during the first service which was just additional profit for them. If they insisted, then I insisted that they give me the plug (S) that they removed.

A fuel additive like Techron, Seafoam, Lucas etc, used occasionally, keeps the plugs even cleaner and cleans the valve seats, the tops of the pistons, the combustion chamber and of course the entire fuel system.

Sam:)