How fast should my ZX50 be going after mods?

[zombie]

Hey man Just finshed the other post. Yeah I mean adjust the mix on the rich side maybe 1/2 turn. It will help keep things cooler when you shut down the throttle. Mine will ALMOST stall when I shut down, because when I burnt the dome I saw the same as yours w/ the rings getting hung right in front of the port. I have almost 500 miles since, pulled the cylinder yesterday , and it looks great. I don't think you will need to change heat range in your plug because that will just take away the advantage. If they foul out at idle, ie hot start, just open the throttle to work it out!

[Shaka]

Ok, I think I have the mix screw out at least 3 turns already.  I messed with it a bit today and it seemed most responsive where I had it.  I'll try adjusting it out a bit more in the morning and see how it goes, 1/2 turn didn't have much effect on it.  I have also been idling seemingly high.  At least the motor takes about 30 seconds, if at all, to fully drop down to idle.  I tried adjusting the idle screw, but was only able to lower it by 1/8 turn.  Anymore than that and when the motor fully dropped, which only happens sometimes, it would die.  Do you think I may need a larger idle jet?

[zombie]

That's exactly what it sounds like. The high idle is because it's lean. Using the rpm adjust to compensate. I posted a link yesterday to a delorto tuning site. See if you can find it to determine which type of idle circut you have. it will help to determine  which way to to go.  Most pipes can be compensated for w/ the idle mix adj., but sometimes you have to change the idle jet also. The Tecnigas is probably the best tuned pipe you can buy for our application. It scavanges the cylinder w/ sound waves that force the exhaust out vs. others that "bottle neck" I have gone two steps up on my idle jet. (using the torch tip cleaners) I have NO idea what it now measures, and if you find you went too far, put a sewing needle in the jet, and heat it until you can melt solder into it. Then you still have an opening to re-work w/ the tip cleaners. I know all this sounds "redneck", and maybe it is. I haven't spent a dime on jets in YEARS! Be CAREFUL to figure if you have an air adjust, or a fuel adjust circut, and it will fall into place. You have entered the FINE TUNING ZONE! HAAA HAAA HA HA H. Thats my old school lol... Of the thread I raise Pit bull SharPei mix dogs. All you forum bro's just became cousins tonight.     6 more BEAUTIFUL pups. I'll TRY to post pics. under the general section tomm.
!!

[wordslinger]

That's exactly what it sounds like. The high idle is because it's lean. Using the rpm adjust to compensate. I posted a link yesterday to a delorto tuning site. See if you can find it to determine which type of idle circut you have. it will help to determine  which way to to go.  Most pipes can be compensated for w/ the idle mix adj., but sometimes you have to change the idle jet also. The Tecnigas is probably the best tuned pipe you can buy for our application. It scavanges the cylinder w/ sound waves that force the exhaust out vs. others that "bottle neck" I have gone two steps up on my idle jet. (using the torch tip cleaners) I have NO idea what it now measures, and if you find you went too far, put a sewing needle in the jet, and heat it until you can melt solder into it. Then you still have an opening to re-work w/ the tip cleaners. I know all this sounds "redneck", and maybe it is. I haven't spent a dime on jets in YEARS! Be CAREFUL to figure if you have an air adjust, or a fuel adjust circut, and it will fall into place. You have entered the FINE TUNING ZONE! HAAA HAAA HA HA H. Thats my old school lol... Of the thread I raise Pit bull SharPei mix dogs. All you forum bro's just became cousins tonight.     6 more BEAUTIFUL pups. I'll TRY to post pics. under the general section tomm.
!!

Congratulations on your new additions!!

...What you guys said about the high idle, and near shut-off after idling to a stop...that sounds a bit like something I have going on with my A50..

..I never changed my slow jet after installing the K&N..

..I now think I should open it up some..

..I'm finding it more and more beneficial to read all these posts, even if they don't pertain to my scoot...

..you guys are learning me so much...(rednecks say "learning")..

 

[zombie]

Ah heered yu. Even though these scoots. have different "systems" the bottom line is about the same. You have an engine, and a transmission. Purdy simppull. Iv'e just been using the  New replies, and Unread posts. And I try to hit scooter Invasion a few times a week. Those guy's are into SERIOUS tuning. It's a heck of a lot better than talking to the guy at the shop.

[wordslinger]

..yeah, I read some of the posts there...one of the questions was "How do you clean the glazing off of your variator?"
...One guy replied "I dunno..never had one to last that long"...lmao...

[Shaka]

Zombie- Congrats on the pups!  I backed out my mix screw 1/4 turn this morning.  I'm pretty sure I have a fuel adjust system, the further out the screw goes, the more fuel it mixes in.  That was my understanding from the guy at moped hospital.  It does seem to be idling better, at least in the short distance to work and back!  I think in the near future I need to get a larger idle jet and also a skinnier needle.  I still have the "sweet" spot at just past 1/4 throttle where I think it leans out and revs up.  This fine tuning is a never ending process!!!  I'll probably get it right just about the time my motor wears out, then on to the next round!   I also have been looking at scooter invasion a bit; those guys really are into some SERIOUS tuning!!  I wish, but lack the funds for that kind of performance!  Something to strive for I guess.  I did find a good step by step on re-packing the Technigas silencer on there.  Hey Zombie, I guess mine does come apart!

I never got back on my belt/variator inspection.  The belt was about 17.3mm wide.  Factory spec. is replace if below 16.5mm, so I should be good for a little while longer.  The variator looks fine, just cleaned it and re-installed.

[Shaka]

I think I may have found the source of my "restriction".  I just found another forum with a build thread by someone using the same kit I used.  He found that the intake manifold was restricting the flow, which makes sense.  The opening in the manifold is smaller than the outlet on the new carb.  I realized this when I installed it and asked the guy at moped hospital about it.  He said it didn't matter.  From what the guy on the forum said, moped hospital told him that they make a larger manifold, but it kinda expensive.  Anyone on here have any experience with an aftermarket intake manifold?  I have seen some with a riser block which houses larger reeds, I don't know if they will fit for my application.  I'm gonna look into it, I would like to hear any personal experiences though!

[zombie]

When I bought my Delorto carb I HAD to use their manifold. The carb slides onto the intake tube. and uses a compression clamp to hold it together. Since the engine mount is the same as stock I was able to ues a Malossi reed cage, and I posted before yx/80 reeds. If you still have the stock intake w/ a reducer mounted to adapt your carb. it's as if you still had the stock carb." You can only get so much air through a straw " No DOUBT I WOULD LOOK FOR THE CORRECT MANIFOLD... Theres your 3-5 mph. maybe 1.5-2.5 hp. Not to knock anyone, I called Moped Hosp. for prices on a few occasions, and was offered different parts at CRAZY prices (higher than elsewhere) They have an impressive web page, but so do alot of other re-salers. Anyway I'm sure malossi usa will have an intake for you. Measure the O.D. on your carb, and give them a call. 10% off orders this month... Also the pipe will give you another increase. I used FAB MAT (heavy glass cloth) wraped four loose turns, and it was still pretty quite,. Now I just run no packing, and can be heard across town. If you need to use my existing account to get the discount from Malossi, email me, and I will hook it up for you!

[Shaka]

That manifold is just something I guess I forgot about, now I'm like. . . Duh!  I sent an email to the malossi store about the manifold, and also to moped hospital.  I want to see what both have to offer.  Does your manifold just bolt right on to the stock reed cage?  I might like to try one of those double sided ones.  I think I'm gonna leave the pipe alone for the time being, but it's nice to know I can take it apart!

[Shaka]

I was surprised, both malossi and moped hospital emailed be back this morning!  A+ for customer service on both!  Unfortunately, Malossi does not have a manifold for my application!  Moped Hospital does have one for $45, not too bad! 

[zombie]

All the parts are direct oem type fit. The malossi reeds seemed to starve the engine at top rpm,s so you may want to consider a different brand or reed. their cage fit like oem. Just stay away from the 2 stage reed setups. there is too much room for error w/ them. You get this done and I'm sure you will be smiling... Good thing there are no flying insects this time of year.

[Shaka]

I have a manifold coming from Moped Hospital, it will hopefully be here Monday!  I have been looking at the different Malossi reeds.  Is there a benefit from using the Malossi reed block, or could I just replace the petals in my oem block?  When you mentioned 2-stage reeds, are those the blocks that are double sided?  I looks like you can put different thickness petals on each side.  Do you know what thickness your YX/80 reeds are?

[zombie]

The reeds that came w/ the malossi cage were .30, and .35mm. They were carbon fibre, but neither set worked too well. I tried to find Boysen reeds for the Malossi, and all I found was ZILCH. A buddy in N.Y. sent me a set of boysen w/ the cage from his yz 80. They have one tapered side that MUST face up. (away from the cage) I'm not sure how thick they are, But my guess is 1/2 that of the malossi. I posted before how to trim them to fit, and reseal the raw edge. I found a link on reeds that may help you decide which way to go... The difference is small between the different set-ups, but like I like to point EVERY little bit adds up. I chose Boysen because since the mid '70s I've been using them in Moto-x and have always replaced them before they broke. (never broke one) The set I have now has been in for about 2 1/2 years (1'600k ?). I have to admitt my set up is getting worn, w/ the crappy tires I have I haven't been topping it out, until today coming home from work. Hit just over 60mph. on the speedo which on mine runs a little high. Time for rollers, springs, and a belt. If you leave the stock cage You will have to find a three fingered reed from boysen to adapt. The Malossi is two fingered. A simple set of measurements will get the set you need. Almost forgot 2 stage reeds are accuatly two seperate reeds. one heavy one w/ a hole in it covered w/ a thinner one. The idea is the thhin one will open at idle, and the thick one opens at top end. The whole set-up is a compromise. Not enough at either end of the spectrum.Bottom line is, I would hold off replacing the set-up until you can get the Malossi cage. The proof is in the pudding... so they say! You will get more snap at low end and, a few more rpms on the top. More rpm=more FUN!!!       http://snowmobile.off-road.com/snowmobile/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=253738

[Shaka]

Wow!  There's a lot more than I expected to choosing the correct ones!  I think for now I may try and find some Malossi reeds that fit my stock cage and see how that works out.  I seem to recall my stock cage has 3 petals, and the Malossi has 2, however Malossi does make 3 petal reeds.  I just don't want to drop the $70 on the Malossi cage right now.  I see how a 2 petal setup would flow better though.  When my manifold gets here I will pull out the stock reeds and take some measurements.  I guess I'll have to run it with the stock reeds till I figure something else out.  Thanks for the info zombie!