What did you do to your DownTown today?

[Snorvey]

Thanks Karl

As a matter of interest, how far should the belt go into the rear pulley groove? I'd need to check, but mine went in about half a centimetre or so.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Sounds like you may have it!

PM to Karl,
Are the Scottish as fond of bacon sandwiches as some Brits?
If he took a meal break during the installation we could still have a slipping and noisy new belt.
Fingers crossed.....🐷
Stig

[Stig / Major Tom]

Thanks Karl

As a matter of interest, how far should the belt go into the rear pulley groove? I'd need to check, but mine went in about half a centimetre or so.

Say...just in passing.....you fond of bacon sandwiches?

Also, yeah hard to squeeze the rear pulley enough to get room for the belt in there. Ska--weeeeze then tuck it in as far as you can.
The more HP the scoot has the harder it is to squeeze. My LIKE200i is pretty easy....the 400 Burgman was a different bacon sandwich.
Stig

[Snorvey]

I like bacon.  I like sandwiches. Ergo, I like bacon sandwiches.  :-)

[CROSSBOLT]

Half an inch is too little! That belt needs to have about 1.5 inch of pulley face showing. It is tough but the last time I went through this I had the back pulley off the gearbox, laying on a stout, flat board. Then with a stout bar like a breaker handle or a 3/4 × 1 1/2" stick push the belt into the sheave, hold some pressure with one hand then pinch the belt with the other. Use a string or cable tie where you are pinching the belt to save what you have then do it again until the belt top is about halfway into the pulley. Tie the pinch and put the rear pulley on the bike with the left belt loop around the front shaft. Put the front pulley together with the loads of slack and clearance you worked so hard to get. This way the front pieces will properly bottom out when you torque the nut. Whew! I'm tired just talking about it!

[kneeslider]

Changed the spark plug yesterday. She's on 64,400km now.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

[kneeslider]

Sure.

But initial thoughts after covering 200kms since they got fitted:
* please note my comments are comparing them directly to the Michelin Power Pure SC fitted previously. http://moto.michelin.co.uk/GB/en/tyres/products/power-pure-sc.html

1) Turning in is slower than the PP SC, probably due to the Diablo Rosso's (DR) profile
2) DR ride is more compliant. Not as harsh as the PP SC, but that dulls the 'feel' thru the bars
3) Due to #3, at lean, it is calmer but lacks the feel. Perhaps I need more time to get used to it
4) DR is quieter


Will return to this when I get more miles on it.

I've travelled around 6000kms on the Diablo Scooter tires.

My views:
1) slightly more comfortable than the PPs
2) wet grip is fabulous compared to the PPs, no more slipping compared to the greasy PPs when damp am"nd wet conditions
3) dry grip seems equal
4) they just do the job without any drama
5) noticeably slower in tipping in, I am thinking that's due to their rounder profile
6) being rounder, they seem to be squaring off faster. But I haven't felt that they drop in after leaning past the edge of the squared off 'shoulder'
7) mileage yet to be determined. Note that I get 10,000km from one rear PP
costs about 25% more than the PP

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[Snorvey]

Thanks Karl.

You know it's appreciated.

[Snorvey]

Today I.....

Removed the front pulley, rear pulley and drive belt. I then secured the rear pulley in my Black and Decker workmate with the belt in place and, with a piece of softwood as a drift and a hammer began tapping the belt into place to the required 1.5 inches depth, every few seconds tightening or replacing a zip tie and retightening until it could be tightened no more.

I then lightly sanded the clutch drum and shoes with 120 grit paper before cleaning everything and then offering it up to the rear drive as well as looping it around the front drive. I loctited and tightened the rear clutch to the required torque and, with the belt still zip tied, I offered, re-offered and offered again the front drive plate up to the drive shaft whilst simultaneously pinching the belt to gain maximum clearance. Each time I heard a definite 'metal on metal' sound so I loctited the threads and tightened the retaining nut to the torque in the manual.

I then reassembled the covers etc and took the DT out for a 25 mile or so run. (the 'howling' normally started around 12 miles or so). I did several stop and starts before taking it to a steep hill in town where I pulled over halfway up, waited for a gap in the traffic and then gunned the throttle. Normally this would have it howling like a banshee and......

....Success!

The DT flew up the hill without any unnecessary or annoying sounds.

So, I get there in the end. I'm a bit like whitewater rafting. Challenging at first, but if you stick at it, ultimately rewarding.

Many thanks to Stig and particularly Karl for their patience.

[CROSSBOLT]

Yeay! Yeay!

[Snorvey]

[Stig / Major Tom]

Well ol' Snorv,

Kudos to you for repeatedly digging into the CVT. That's not always a fun thing to do.*
I know some scooter owners who refuse to unscrew the oil dipstick.....
The 300 is a great scooter by all accounts.
Thanks for the very good pictures.

Stig
*wouldn't it be nice to have one of those scooter lifts like the Vespa shops have?
Can't imagine being able to stand next to a scooter and work on it!

[Snorvey]

My new-ish Puig screen has a 4 inch crack running from one of the r/h mounting points, backwards towards the rider. It's still some way from the edge of the screen though.

So, after checking what the screen was made of on the Puig screen, I have purchased some acrylic cement and this afternoon task will be a little repair job on the screen.

Wish me luck!

[Snorvey]

[Snorvey]

.... and we're done.  You can still see the crack but there's no movement anymore.  Powerful smelling stuff though.  Keep your work area well ventilated!