Oil screen & plug on the LIKE

[Stig / Major Tom]

Decided to replace that O-ring on the oil screen drain plug, and the screen.
My scoot came with kind of a mashed screen which I had to straighten when I first removed it. Found pieces of the screen's collar when I did the last oil change. They were laying in the cap, under the spring.
Parts places want rather too much $ for these parts + shipping. Found this set on eBay for @$9 (free shipping)
Also, see picture of why you do not want to over-tighten the 'cap'....the metal on these things is pretty soft.

[TroutBum]

Stig,

Does this seller have multiple qty or was this just a one off sale? If multiple, can I trouble to attach a link to the seller?

That cap is really chewed up. I noticed when using a socket on mine to tighten that there is some play in the teeth. Because of that a slight rounding of the corners have occurred.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Stig,

Does this seller have multiple qty or was this just a one off sale? If multiple, can I trouble to attach a link to the seller?

That cap is really chewed up. I noticed when using a socket on mine to tighten that there is some play in the teeth. Because of that a slight rounding of the corners have occurred.

Hello trout, try :  http://www.ebay.com/itm/280944495806?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

or:

eBay item number:
280944495806
 Stig

[TroutBum]

Thanks Stig!

[Aceforever]

Decided to replace that O-ring on the oil screen drain plug, and the screen.
My scoot came with kind of a mashed screen which I had to straighten when I first removed it. Found pieces of the screen's collar when I did the last oil change. They were laying in the cap, under the spring.
Parts places want rather too much $ for these parts + shipping. Found this set on eBay for @$9 (free shipping)
Also, see picture of why you do not want to over-tighten the 'cap'....the metal on these things is pretty soft.

Hey mate, yep you're exactly right. I normally have no problems changing the oil. However, I noticed the plug was too tight when I use the 17mm wrench and now it slipping off:



Now I have a similar plug to your old one in the second picture
Is there another way of taking it off? I haven't used the 17mm socket tool yet or a spanner. If I can find one or borrow then might give that a try.

What happens if I am unable to take it off? The 17mm wrench keep slipping off.

[TLRam1]

Always use the closed end of a, preferable 6, point combo wrench or a 6 point socket. It has an O Ring, tightening extra does not prevent leakage, the O Ring does that. Just snug it to prevent vibration from loosening it.

Ways to loosen, vice grips, channel lock pliers, pipe wrench, specialty sockets that do that. File the edges square and try another wrench.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Hello buckmajor,
Yep, I would use channel lock pliers or the like.
But first I'd pick up the replacement part on ebay, or ?
One more thought.....there seems to be a hefty group of scooter owners who never remove this cap, spring & screen after the initial cleaning from new. Quite often there is very little or nothing found in the screen.....and there is only a small amount of oil behind that cap.
So....if yours proves next to impossible to remove...you could leave it in place and stop fretting the whole situation. Rather than absolutely destroying things under there.....
But I bet the channel locks will get it off....then replace with new. I smear the O ring with a bit of silicone grease then a snug - bearing in mind how difficult it was to get off.
Stig

[Aceforever]

Thanks guys. Awesome!

I forgot to mention I have the bike on the stand outside the yard on the grass compared to having it in the workshop.
So I laying on the grass and removing the oil plug if you know what I mean.
I think the channel lock pliers seem convenient. Gonna buy one tomorrow.
Guys a little help here. Which channel lock pliers do I buy: griplock, multigrip, tongue and groove straight, and linesmen or doe it not really  matter?
Wow all pliers are over $40?

Why don't the scooter company use a stronger metal for the oil plug?

If I replace the old oil plug with the new one, what is the best way to tighten the oil plug without wrecking or bending the hex shape?
Would you recommend using the 17mm wrench or use the channel lock pliers? I noticed the 17mm wrench has lots of oval shape with in the ring?

P.S if you need photos of the oil plug then let me know?

Thanks again

[Stig / Major Tom]

I'm a big fan of buying tools off of the dollar table.
I had all kinds of craftsman tools stolen...now I but cheap wrench sets wherever I find them. Have NEVER  broken one of these cheap tools or a fastener when using the correct size tool.
Bummer working in a yard...but I've done some major car repairs laying in a parking lot.
Whatever vice grip or channel locks you find that will get a good grip on a 17mm head ( what is that?, about the size of a quarter) should work fine. You do NOT need an expensive tool! $40 ought to buy several pounds of no-name tools !
Just give your new cap a careful snug with the proper 17mm wrench....
The rubber O ring provides the seal, you just want to tighten the caps so that it does not vibrate loose. Remember....if the head is really chewed up and refusing to budge....leave it on, changing the oil with the other drain plug will suffice with no worries .
Stig

[Aceforever]

Thanks Stig,

I bought this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281593716799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Will wait for it to deliver only cost $13.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Thanks Stig,

I bought this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281593716799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Will wait for it to deliver only cost $13.

That should work for you.
Keep us posted.
Regards, Stig

[Aceforever]

Hey Stig, I got the pliers now but having still trouble trying to unloosen it? Its really stuck and hard to turn?

What to do? If worse I might have to take it in for a service (more like pretending) and get the mechanic to do it

[zombie]

Stigs out of pocket for a minute.

You could order the new one (if you didn't already), and actually try to break it out.
I have had to break two of these, and I used a cold chisel on the edge of the stripped "nut" section. Hitting it upward, and into the engine is easier because you are forcing against thinner material.

Once you get a hole busted into it a long screw driver will give you the leverage to turn it. Or the whole "cap" will bust off, and the threaded piece will easily spin out
Otherwise it's 40 -50 -60 bucks to have a shop bust it out.

[Aceforever]

Stigs out of pocket for a minute.

You could order the new one (if you didn't already), and actually try to break it out.
I have had to break two of these, and I used a cold chisel on the edge of the stripped "nut" section. Hitting it upward, and into the engine is easier because you are forcing against thinner material.

Once you get a hole busted into it a long screw driver will give you the leverage to turn it. Or the whole "cap" will bust off, and the threaded piece will easily spin out
Otherwise it's 40 -50 -60 bucks to have a shop bust it out.

Hey Zomb,
True that is costly. Yea I already ordered the part just waiting for it. Ok, I haven't done it before so will give it a try. Is that the only way using a screw driver? I might have to look it up on youtube.

[zombie]

Well you could drill a 1/4"ish hole thru the mangled "nut" portion, and put a rod thru to try to twist it out. I think that will break off a bit, maybe... 

You see the thing is you sort of have to get the saucer out from under the cup so to speak. The large portion is obviously jammed against the engine case, and the threads will just hand spin out once you remove the base.

you could also use a SHARP / NEW chisel, and try to spin it off from the side by striking with a hammer. Sort of cut a groove in the large part, and try to push it around with a bunch of blows.

In any case, somethings got to break.