Fuel vacuum issues, please help

[zombie]

Correct.
 It's just something like 8 bolts. It may take a few shots from a dead blow hammer to get it off the first time. They use locater dowels to line it up, and sometimes they get stuck.



You don't need the silly tool w/ teeth or remove the kick start. All else is the same

[super50zx]

Awesome man.....you are the man.

[zombie]

Woo Hoo!!! 

[super50zx]

Gotta go to work in the morning but still messing with the scoot.....gotta tell you I am learning alot and having some fun. hope I am not too annoying on here....just pulled the variator and the seal behind it was only setting in there kind of half cocked and i would say it is pretty much toast. I will be ordering new seals for that and the other side might as well replace them while its all apart, as for the rollers they look pretty decent, though i dont know what they are really supposed to look like.... I cleaned them up a bit and rolled them across a piece of glass and they rolled pretty true no wobbling or any real uneven spots on them. of course now i have to ask....from what i have read people are saying you can get a little bit more performance with a new variator or rollers??? was just curious thinking it would be pretty cool to up-tune this thing myself, thoughts on that, worth it? etc. thanks!

[zombie]

Good news mate!

You can pull out the old seals with a hook type pick. They come out pretty easy. I would try REAL hard to shake or move the crankshaft on that side of the engine. MAYBE the bearings went bad. Not always but if happens. You can reinstall the flywheel by hand, and rotate the crank to TDC and see if the crank deflects there too.

What I do is install TWO seals in each side. One facing in, and the other facing out. (insurance). Also I use Indian Shelac to "glue" the seal in.

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/permatex-20539/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=COP9ltqq7r4CFWMQ7AodnQYA1A

None of that silicone RTV crap.

Call Louie for the Variator.... Polini is about 47 bucks dealer price from him for forum members. (spi)

http://www.spi-parts.com

Also when you order the new seals get a new Bando belt. No other brand. It is around 40 bucks but you will have the old one for a spare. I'll still send out the tester for you cause there is nothing worse than finishing the repairs but to find another leak. That is unless your case bearing is shot... That is a ROYAL BITCH to change. Let me know. 904 20nine 70nine1

[super50zx]

i can turn the crankshaft by hand (very hard too though) but as i do that i can see the piston moving as well through the exhaust outlet. the crankshaft does not wobble from side to side any, maybe a millimeter or two, and on the stator side it does not move either from side to side. is that okay? the belt on there is bando brand, there was surprisingly not a terrible amount of belt dest either, still will order another as its all apart now. 

[zombie]

If you compare the two sides for wobble they really should be ZERO. I would TRIPLE check this. The problem becomes not only removing the crank, and bearings but installing the new ones. They are press fit on both the crank, and into the case halves.

It is a minor nightmare to swap them out. There are specific tools that make it all easier, and the set runs around 60 bucks. If you DO have a bad bearing I would recommend talking to Josh. He owns a shop called The Scooter Garage in North Carolina, and he also owns Scooter Invasion Forum.

Perhaps he will either lead you to the bearing tools or (I can't speak for him) he may be able to lend you the tools he has.

Triple Check.

[super50zx]

yeah just checked again and there really isnt any play in them that i can tell. they are in there tight and i tried them each way side to side up and down and they dont really move any. you can feel that you are trying to move them but that is about it.

[zombie]

Good. I sent out the tester this morning. You should see it by the weekend I hope.

[super50zx]

Thanks man, i will keep you up to date and pm me at some point on how to take care of the shipping on it and any rental fee. another quick question when putting the flywheel back on do i use the impact for a light little tap or would just tightening down the bolts evenly pull it down tight enough the keyway will insure i have it in the right spot, also when putting the variator back on same question, thanks

[zombie]

I tighten them both as much as I can by hand, and use blue Lok Tite. Once they are snug I hit them with a quick blast from the impact. I have seen LOTS of stripped treads on the nuts from over tightening, and LOTS of parts fall off from being too loose or no Lok Tite.   Just a quick blast will do.. I included a return address card so you can paste it over the address card on the box. It cost 9.50 to send.

No rental fee. Just kick the first kid you see, and we are even. (do that AFTER you return mail it)

[super50zx]

ha gotcha, thanks will post with results questions

[BettinANDlosing]

With the spark plug out it should be pretty easy to spin the crank.

[zombie]

True. BUT I actually wanted him to spin it with the plug in so he could feel for deflection in the bearings due to the compression. That's why I suggested using the flywheel for some leverage.

It is easier to feel when there is resistance. A dial indicator is actually the tool of choice but so be it.
If you cant RedNeck repair a China bike you might as well toss it.

[super50zx]

Zombie,    thanks man leak down tester just arrived, I will be getting into it this week and will post with any questions/issues. thanks again man.