Rear Tire replacement DIY?

[scootinChris]

Got a nail in my rear tire and need to replace the tire. However my Kymco dealer is 50 km away. 
Thus I'm contemplating to do the replacement myself.   
Anyone done it?

Manual says:
Remove the exhaust muffler
Remove the brake caliper
Remove the rear fork
Remove rear axle collar

The only point I'm confused about the the rear fork.
It states to remove the right shock absorber lower bolt and the rear axle nut and collar.
Then you can remove the rear fork? Is it not connected towards the front? 

Thanks 

[zombie]

One of the muffler bracket bolts is also the front mount bolt for the "fork".

This is a similar bike but the deal is the same...

[scootinChris]

Thanks!
Feel confident now to give it a try.

[zombie]

the hardest part is cleaning your hands afterward.

[Philly]

Although I've never had to do it myself yet, I found this video on youtube that might help

[Philly]

This is the first part of above video. Sorry, got the order mixed up.

[zombie]

Jackpot!

[scootinChris]

Excellent find
Thanks!

[sklnzl]

What brand of tyre are you using ? And how many miles you drove with the last one ?

[scootinChris]

I've bought a Michelin Power Pure SC to replace the Maxxis Pro.
After 6076 km it still had 1.9 mm above wear mark

Well I got the wheel off, but could not remove the tire. Tried the Ziptie method, but could not get enough clearance with the tire beads touching each other.  Will have to bring it to a tire shop. 

Will have to wait two weeks before I can finish it   

to be continued...

[de dee]

make sure they install the tire right my local dealer put the tire on reversed and he did not know about the blue spot on the tire to line up to the valve stem,. and he did not balance the wheel but I was charged for the service,.  what can I say it is a kawi dealer,.

[rdhood]

As seemingly always, this topic is kind of half covered.   I am going to see if I can do a little better.   The op wrote:

"Manual says:
Remove the exhaust muffler
Remove the brake caliper
Remove the rear fork
Remove rear axle collar"

So now that I have done it, here is the REAL scoop with a couple of pictures....

1) detach the exhaust muffler.  The first thing to do is to take off the top/front muffler cover to expose the muffler attach points. Once off, take off the two nuts holding the muffler to the engine.  (if you dont, and go ahead and detach the muffler points that were up under the cover, the muffler will be hanging by that little tube.  you dont want that). Now take off the three bolts holding on the muffler, and gently pull the whole thing away from the engine.  You will not be able to pull it out because there is still an oxygen sensor attached, so I just laid it to the side. Also, there is a crush washer between the muffler and the engine, and it will fall out when you remove the muffler.  Don't miss that washer!

2) I took off the seat and took out the tub.  As it turns out, I did not see a way of getting the wheel past the right side spring, so I took off the seat/tub to be able to detach the spring from the top. I also intend on running power lines to the front glove box, so I needed to do it anyway.

3) detach right side spring and set aside. if you have the tub out, come into that top nut from below/behind and remove it.  The spring assembly will drop out.

4) take off the fender bolts. There are three little 10mm bolts holding on the fender.  The fender will still be stuck up in there with the wheel, but the whole thing will slide with the wheel when you pull the wheel.

5) detach the brake bolts, and pull the brake off of the rotor.  Jam a few thicknesses of cardboard in the gap where the rotor was to keep anyone from accidentally squeezing the brake and causing you a problem later. Besides the spring mount, there are two more bolts holding on the Y plate at the top right and bottom right. Remove those bolts.   At the point, the whole "Y" plate holding the brake can be slid off and laid to the side with the muffler. the brake hose is still attached.

6)  Take off the big bolt holding on the wheel.  I have an impact wrench and compressor. I did not have to hold it or anything, just put it on the bolt and it spun off in a few seconds. Note that there is a big spacer and the wide end it toward the bike.

At this point the whole wheel can be pulled off the bike. the fender will come off with it.

[CROSSBOLT]

I may have read a few things wrong but a couple of points in my doing this on this model several times:
1. Right rear shock/spring MUST be removed!
2. Leave exhaust pipe on engine, remove muffler.
3. Remove fender huggy over rear tire BEFORE removing rear wheel.

That right side "fork" plate is absolutely the HARDEST thing to do the first time. It must come off perfectly straight and square. This means prying firmly one side and then the other since the bearing inner race is slightly rusted on the shaft. Use penetrant, light oil, diesel, whale snot, anything on that shaft to help this removal. Once off, light sanding of the shaft and the inside of the inner race will ease reassembly. Greasing the shaft and splines will ease repeating this when the rear tire needs replacing.

[rdhood]

Hey CROSSBOLT... or anyone else who has done this...   I dont ever remember seeing this spacer(42312) upon removing the wheel, and definitely dont have it now.  Everything seems to fit nicely together without it, but I am worried that I lost this before I knew it existed (like... it was stuck in the wheel and dropped out somewhere while I was transporting the wheel).  Is this a loose spacer like 42311?

[CROSSBOLT]

Both those spacers are absolutely necessary for the longevity of the drive! That spacer you indicated is loosely held by a seal but could vibrate out while transporting. Probably in the trunk of your car or the place that changed the tire. Treasure hunt!